Topic: The Noise is Back!
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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Leavenworth, KS - USA
Joined: 1/24/2007
Posts: 426
Vette(s): MM Red 1971 T-top,LS5,4-speed, black leather C5 seats, Hooker sidepipes.
Previous: 64 Coupe, 65 Roadster L76 / N14
Well, I thought I had the solution to my rear end noise (in the car you guys!). 
I need yer help. Long story before my request for help at the end.
Based on feedback from the forum, I changed the earl in my differential. While I was there, I drilled and tapped it and inserted a drain plug. Works like a champ! Got the method from forum members and saved myself the $70 for the catalog "kit." BTW, no matter how you do it, them thar rear ends are MESSY and STINKY!!
So, after the obligatory donuts in the parking lot (left and right for the posi), I set off to church with the oldest grandson and the tops off. Got about five miles before the noise returned!!! 
Put me in a great mood for church (besides being late).
Put me in a great mood for church (besides being late).So now I guess I'll try the old trial-and-error method of diagnosis. The axles joints all looked good (one half-shaft joint had been replaced with a greasable joint), but the spring is flat. And during the inspection, I found that the e-brake bracket and spring clip had been cutting a deep groove in the right rear tire (same location of the noise)!! Boy was I glad that I caught that when I did. Could have been a real surprise.
My best guess right now is the RIGHT REAR WHEEL BEARING. There is some play in the wheel. The noise is an intermittant grinding sound, especially at slow speeds. From the book, it looks like a major job to replace or even service / pack the rear wheel bearings. 
I would sure appreciate ANY ADVICE before I start. May be the "justification" I need for a new mono-spring (to replace the stock flat spring), shocks (they "look" old), etc. for the rear!!! 
Any experience out there? Special tools? Have a pro do it? Thanx. Mike
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Former Member
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Mounds View, MN - USA
Joined: 5/24/2007
Posts: 1031
Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
Rear wheel bearings are owner-servicable - sort of. There are tolerances that must be checked with a special fixture, and you need to press bearings off and on until you get the correct shim thickness. All of that makes it not worth the expense or effort. There are many places that offer assemblies on an exchange basis. Be sure you get one with the spindle turned on centers, and all new wear parts.
Larry
Larry
Mike,
If you have the original trailing arms, and since you say you have a slight amount of play in the rear, maybe you should consider doing your trailing arms.
You could have some shims missing etc. I tried to save some money by just doing the easiest / cheapest repair which was the bearings.
It wound up costing me more in the long run, the trailing arms had to be rebuilt 8 months later.
Check with any local corvette clubs in your area,find out who does theres.I have a shop close to me that did mine,he's been doin them for years,I bought the parts,he did them both for $30.00,just press time.just make sure they know how to do them,if they don't ,run don't walk away.also check your local Chevy dealer to find out who does them
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Grinding noise sure sounds like a trailing arm bearing...
They can be done at home, with the right tools/equipment, but...they really do need to be done RIGHT, as far as bearing play/shims. This is NOT a job you'll want to do again very soon.
The easiest/quickest way is to buy rebuild t-arms. They cost a bit more(a LOT, actually) than doing them yourself, but unless you have the tools, and the proper set-up techniques, it's a gamble, imo.
They can be done at home, with the right tools/equipment, but...they really do need to be done RIGHT, as far as bearing play/shims. This is NOT a job you'll want to do again very soon.
The easiest/quickest way is to buy rebuild t-arms. They cost a bit more(a LOT, actually) than doing them yourself, but unless you have the tools, and the proper set-up techniques, it's a gamble, imo.
Joel Adams
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Lifetime MemberIrving, TX - USA
Joined: 8/21/2004
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Vette(s): #1 -1969 Corvette Coupe Riverside Gold, black interior,MN,A/C,350/350,PS,PB,window cranks.
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Expensive, but well worth it. Took mine to a specialist (NCRS) and they did a great job. 
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Now......I'm "Vette Poor."
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MICK - C3VR Lifetime Member #113
some times the bolt where the trailing arm pivats at the chassis has to be cut out, that had to be done on mine I glad I had someone experance to change it.
in Forum: C3 Engines, Driveline and Handling
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