I hope someone has a magic bullet for this but Im not hopeful.  In anticipation of having a 4 wheel alignment I decided to check the trailing arm bolts to make sure they werent siezed to the trailing arms.  Of course they are, what was I thinking???  If anyone was going to be hammering on my baby, I wanted it to be me so I managed to get the drivers side broke loose but the passengers side is stuck tight.  Ive tried PB blaster, hammer and punch on the nut side of the bolt, wrench on the bolt side, blue language and a combination of all of the above.  Any ideas??  Im just not ready to tackle cutting the bolt and taking the TAs off and with limited work space to install new bolts, it looks like a real PITA to do.

Soak that puppy REAL GUD, then drive it around a while. The combination of penetrant and up/down motion of the t-arms might just break that thing loose. In order to get the best penetration of the PB Blaster, you may want to remove the shims(be sure to mark them and keep them in the same location) on either side of the t-arm so you can get directly at the bolt as it passes thru the bushing.
I've never had one that was seized up like that, but I've heard stories...plenty of them!
You might want to consider using an air hammer on the outer end...
I wouldn't recommend a smoke wrench for heating it up, but some folks have done that, too.
If all else fails, there's only one final solution..."sawz-all"

Ill try driving it a little Joel.  Ive heard of  some using the blue tip wrench too but that one is out for me.  I have a sawsall but hope I dont have to use it.

Chip, that is one of the worst jobs, which you already know. They sell stainless steel bolts, shims, and cotter pin sets to replace the orginal. Now if you were to remove the body..................it would go a little easier (Sorry ebo made me type the last part...........)  

Yep, Ive found the kits but havent found a willing midget to do the work yet.  Its like everything else with these cars, the universal instruction before doing ANY repair is Step 1. DISSASEMBLE THE ENTIRE VEHCILE  Step 2. Proceed with the repair.

Chip, that Joel dude knows his poop, bet cha the drivin bit does it. Can you get to it from your lift?  I'm guna hafta wopp Larry up side da head for always blamin me.       But he does have a lot of ebo in em

[QUOTE=ebo]that Joel dude knows his poop[/QUOTE]


yesser....I'mma "poop-connoisseur"...





(oh st....did I say that out-loud?!?)

[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]Soak that puppy REAL GUD, then drive it around a while. The combination of penetrant and up/down motion of the t-arms might just break that thing loose. In order to get the best penetration of the PB Blaster, you may want to remove the shims(be sure to mark them and keep them in the same location) on either side of the t-arm so you can get directly at the bolt as it passes thru the bushing.
I've never had one that was seized up like that, but I've heard stories...plenty of them!
You might want to consider using an air hammer on the outer end...
I wouldn't recommend a smoke wrench for heating it up, but some folks have done that, too.
If all else fails, there's only one final solution..."sawz-all" [/QUOTE]

i used a saws-all on the '76 and was rather a simple task... had to use a long blade, fine toothed.  Took about 10-15 minutes and had both trailing arms out, took a smaller sized bolt to knock out the rest of the bolt.