I just picked up my '68 w 327/300 and automatic transmission. It starts up fine and will stay running for about 5 miles through the city. But when it's all warmed up, it stalls. Then it will start up but stall if I put it in gear. Have to let it cool down and then it'll stay running. What should I check? The car has been sitting a while so not sure if the timing is off or not.

Also, what is the correct timing for a 327/300 with automatic? Is is 4degBTDC or 4degATDC?

Thanks,
Steve

Steve, my 76 was doing something similar. Surprisingly, it was the fuel lines. Old and weak lines can close shut when they get warm. Just one item you may want to investigate...

Thanks. So these are probably rubber sections of the fuel lines? If so, where are they located?

Thanks,
Steve

So I checked my dwell, it's fine at 29deg, then I adjusted my timing to 4degBTDC (it was set at TDC). Then I adjusted my idle speed to 600rpm (with gear in drive, since I've got an automatic trans).

My engine sounds great and runs great until it fully warms up and I put it in drive to take off. Then burp, cough, sputter and it dies. Damn! It's been in storage for 12 years and I haven't changed to fuel filter. I guess I'll do that next. But other than bad fuel lines, what else could cause this type of problem? My Rochester carb was just rebuilt too.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve, you might want to look at any vacuum temperature switches. Once temperature is reached, the switch opens to the vacuum. There could be a large vaccum leak that is not obvious until after warmup.

Thanks, but not sure I have any vacuum temp switches on my '68. I've got vacuum switches for headlights and the wiper door, but I don't think I have any that switch on or off depending on temperature. Maybe I'm wrong?
If so, where are they?

Steve

your gas tank leak if near the pick-up, could be contributing to this problem. Have you checked your pcv?

The leak appears to be coming from up near the return tube, not where the pickup is at the bottom of the tank.

Where is the PCV? And how do I check if it's functioning? What problems will a bad PCV cause?

Steve

pollution control valve plugs into the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine and runs to the carb. When engine is running the valve should be sucking when you pull it out of the cover. People have cussed these things for years and it is very cheap part. I mentioned the tank before, because if you pick up air in your lines it can sometimes give you problems.Generally follow the leak to the source. Some people are fans of Rochester Carbs. My 68" has a holley and I just like them more. Does the automatic choke work or does the car idle down immediately after starting? I have a 327 rebuilt to about 375 hp and mine idles best at about 900 rpms when warmed up. It starts cold at about 1600 rpm. Hope you get it figured out. I'm goin cruisen. The weather here in Florida has been nice lately. I'd park mine in the living room if my wife would let me, but I can't get her to move her harley. Women, can you beleive it.

I think the PCV valve is on the drivers side valve cover on a '68, either way, the hose should lead to the carb.

I know you said you had your Rochester rebuilt, BUT, this sounds an awful lot like a carb problem. It sounds like it might be running too lean. That coulc be why it runs ok when the choke is closed. It's probably just a matter of doing some tuning.

Good luck!