I'll start off by saying, I really don't know, but I would be very surprised that the SB & BB share the same radiator. A quick look in my parts book showed at least 3 different radiators.

First, make sure all your shrouding is in place. This directs the air flow through the radiator. Also check your spoiler to see if it flexs or is cracked or broken as this also directs air through the radiator.

I seem to remember that right out of the box, BB were real tough to keep cool, espically when doing that slow main street cruise. I can remember a number of BB that would over heat when moving slowly on our club rallys as they looked for route direction clues.

If it were my problem, I would try a four core HD BB radiator using 50/50 antifreeze mix with the water wetter and an electric fan as a back up..

I should have stated that I am using the biggest one available. They cost the same, so I wanted the biggest one. I agree, 50/50 antifreeze mix and have all shrouding and foam so all the air must go through the radiator will be the optimum solution with the mechanical fan.

Mark, I had the same problem with my 454. I did a recore on the radiator. Water from the tap or your water well will scale up the cores in your radiator and drastically affect the heat transfer properties of the radiator. You probably have scale build up within the cores. It is pretty cheap to get it recored. When they do it, they keep the same tanks and reservoirs, but just put in a new core. Also change your thermastat to a 160 degree thermastat. After I did all this to mine it runs around 170 without a/c runnning and about 200 with a/c on. After you get it recored fill your radiator with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and a good brand of coolant/atifreeze solution. I live in Texas and the temperature averages in the mid 90's during the summer. Hopes this helps, Jimmie

|UPDATED|6/22/2003 3:13:50 PM|/UPDATED|

I don't have any overheat problems with my 1974 Coupe, 454, Automatic, & Air Conditioning. While not in Florida, I drove the Woodward Dream Cruise last August here in Detroit. Bumper-to-Bumper crawl for 10+ miles... each way, north and south. It was 95 degrees that day and I had the AC on.

Most people tend to want to spend a lot of money on radiators, fans, etc. without looking at the basics of how a Corvette cooling system works.

1)Any mechanical problems? Water pump ok? Is there a thermostat in place? Is it stuck open or closed? Is it the right temperature? Putting in a 160 degree thermostat won't have any affect. Correct coolant? A 50/50 mix of a reputable brand works the best. Radiator clogged? Collapsed hoses?

2) Fan shrouds, core support seals, spoilers, etc. are all essential elements to the cooling system integrity. The overwhelming design problem is the angle of the radiator laying back in the car and limited air flow. With all parts in place, there is sufficient air flow to keep the car cool.

3) Temperature Gauge/Sending Unit - do you really know the car is running hot? These cars are famous for not recording accurate engine temperature.

4) Engine vacuum. Does the vacuum advance work correctly? Is it connected at the distributor and carb? Improper advance can cause overheating, especially at low RPM.

Before you spend hundreds/thousands $$$ to buy add-on pieces, check the basics. If you are not mechanically inclined... get to a good mechanic who is. Overall, most Corvette "run hot" problems can be resolved for little or no cost.

One little thing I just did was to remove the front license plate. I feel it can really restrict the air flow going up to the radiator. In Washington we're actually required to have a front license plate, so I'm currently laying my plate on the right side of my dash. In parades, etc. I just don't show it. I've noticed the car is running cooler down the road. Not sure what it will do in extended stop and go traffic.

Mark

I also live in FLA. Mine was running real hot with the AC on during 95+ days. I changed my thermostat, and the problem was solved. During the winter I thought my thermostat was stuck open cause it took long to warm up. Since changing the thermostat fixed my overtemp problem, I am thinking that maybe it was stuck half open which could explain the long warmup and poor cooling. In checking my records, I don't think the thermostat was ever changed in mine (also broke both bolts trying to get it out).

ok heres my 2 cents. check the timing, the engine will run hotter the more advancd the timing is. . i agree that the radiator should be professionaly flushed and replace upper and lower hoses. i have seen radiator hoses colapse on the inside and look fine from the outside. my 350 runs about between 200-230. Hey how about comming to Mels on the secound saturday night of the month corner of Rt 41 and Cortez road in Bradenton. cars start showing up about 5. i'll be there with about 150 others