I was wondering if someone might have the answer to my question. I am restoring a 1970. While rebuilding it was discovered that the block was a 327. Could there have been any 327's ordered or manufactored in the 70 corvette? And if not, since the car is not a numbers matching car would it further de-value the car if I change the exterior color? or Should I restore the car to as close to original as I can?

are you looking to sell the car soon, if you're not, paint it the color that you want it to be. There's less of an originality concern of changing the color when the engine is already non numbers matching. I have never heard of a 327 in a 70. They were strictly for the 68's.

I really did not think there was a chance that it could accually matching numbers with a 327 block, but sometimes mistakes do happen. All the other engine parts did look original. I am rebuilding it with a 350 four bolt main. I am not a big fan of the Donnybrooke green but would leave it that color if it helped with holding some of the value.

Very good questions.

There are several threads running right now that deal with the dollar value issues. And since we're talking about a species of collectible classic car, the simplest answer is that your car, my car, Adam's car or anybody else car is worth whatever someone else is willing to pay - and nothing more.

It's none of my business what you (or anyone else) paid for your car - and it's a rude question as well. If you paid "Matching numbers" money for your car, you are in the hole already and will be a while digging yourself out of it.

In defining the term "matching numbers", "Corvette by the numbers" author Alan Colvin states it this way: "It is important to also make the distinction that a car is only original once, period."

I agree with his assessment. So, although some cars out there are truly original matching numbers Vettes, yours never will be . . . and neither will mine. That's just how it is. I'm okay with that.

That's the best I can tell ya.

John

I liked your assessment of placing value. I was only asking for the good of the car and not me. I paid 5000 for the car. So far my checkbook is still open with a steady flow of capital melting into getting the car back on the road. Since it wasn’t an original engine, I put a lot more horses under the hood than what it was born with. I figure I will be somewhere around 15,000 before the cash flow slows down. But it will be a great running piece of metal and plastic that looks great and fun to drive.

LWinn said: I liked your assessment of placing value. I was only asking for the good of the car and not me. I paid 5000 for the car. So far my checkbook is still open with a steady flow of capital melting into getting the car back on the road. Since it wasn’t an original engine, I put a lot more horses under the hood than what it was born with. I figure I will be somewhere around 15,000 before the cash flow slows down. But it will be a great running piece of metal and plastic that looks great and fun to drive.

WOW! What a bargain! Congrats, amigo!

Looking back at your original post, I see that I inadvertantly overlooked one VITAL piece of info - that your Vette is a '70. While it will never be original, it will always be somewhat rare. Please review the thread "Years of the 1970 strike" and you'll see what I mean. Sorry for not catching that before.

If I owned a '70, I would retain everything in it that is original and very carefully replace anything else with correct vintage wherever possible. Engine-wise, I think I'd do what you are doing - put in some extra go-go since the original is gone-gone anyway. However, I would also have a side project going to build a correct motor to drop in it to boost the selling price, or just to have for my own sense of originality. Naturally, I would inform any buyer that it is not the original mill (as I'm sure you would also), but that it is a "correct" one.

Hope that helps. Again, sorry for the oversight.

Post some pics if you get a chance. I'd love to see her. Thanks

John

I read where there were only 17,316 70's made. I do still have everything set to the side encase a block might happen along. The car has been setting since 83 and is supposed to have only 67,000 miles on it. The frame is pretty rusted but I have it being restored. It will need a new brake system and new bushings, which I have already purchased. I am looking for bolt kits to replace all the rusted and bad bolts and nuts. There was one place that had the stainless steel but they were kind of costly....

I would'nt go with stainless steel,its too soft you want hardened bolts

Yes that was another issue on using stainless. Right now my option is to take all the little baggies of bolts I have and start replacing them one by one. I will try to post a picture of the car in its before TLC.