Picked up the block, assembled heads, and a whole bunch o'parts from the machine shop yesterday.  Any tips out there for a first time engine assembler?  

Don't take this the wrong way but why didn't you let the machine shop put it together..its what they do..the main reason is..if you have a problem you will have a hard time claiming that they did anything wrong..like if the motor blows up 10 minutes after you start it...or the crank eats itself..or you have a vibration at 2500 rpm..things in life are simple..you may be making it hard..other than that there is nothing mystical about a sbc..a little research and all specs can be found..a good torque wrench and a ring compressor is all you need.

Richyostusota2011-06-27 01:32:59

I agree ... I'd be letting my shop put that baby back together  .... good luck ! 

I would also agree I would let the shop that did the machining do the assembly. As Rich said above, that way if you have any issues it makes it easier to have them stand by their work. I have seen engines that have been bored and the new pistons were to tight or maybe a rod bearing doesnt have the proper clearance after a crank has been turned. So many things could happen, its not that you cant do the assembly and check everything as you go but for the little extra $ its just good insurance. Now if the motor was yours to start with and you didnt have any boring or crank work done and your just reringing and new bearings I would do that myself, but with any type of changes to the actual block or crank I feel better having the shop do the assembly. I just got mine back and I even had them put the heads and adjust the lifters so all I have to do is put the pan, intake and valve covers on, And if it werent for the possibility of something getting damaged while loading and unloading it I would have them do that part as well! Oh yea, Im lazy as well and this saved me work!
By the way, when you start to paint the block and heads and other parts I highly recommend the POR15 Products. I used them on motors for a long time and it holds up great and the colors are bright and glossy. Makes a nice looking job if you follow their instructions. Engine pic
No matter what you decide to do from here good luck and keep us informed on your progress.
Rodney
rod75152011-06-27 15:55:02

Wow, not the responses I expected from this forum.  Everyone is usually so encouraging.  As to why, well, why do people climb mountains or run marathons?   I've always wanted to rebuild an engine and here's my chance.  When I bought this car 10 years ago I did it with the intention that I'd do most of the work myself if at all possible (and my wife holds me to that promise that I made three weeks before we got married).  So far the only things I haven't done myself are paint, rear wheel bearings, and a rear-end rebuild.  I do, however, plan on installing the rotating assembly and cam and then taking it to the machinist to degree the cam and check things out.  He's a pretty easy going guy and when we were negotiating this work he told me he works pretty well with self-assemblers and will help them work through most issues.   (He's willing to answer the phone and take questions).  Are there risks?  Sure.  But if I was adverse to some financial risk would I have bought a '76 Corvette in the first place?  Probably not.  

Dave my response was based on my experience with past machine shops..I guess that's how I ended up with the one I use only now..I went thru a good bit if motor work over the past many years..had a good many problems also..I am a ASE master tech recertified several times over and can do this job with very little effort..but that's mainly because of the machinist I use..he makes it easy..I still check everything before assembly..as of yet I haven't had a problem with anything he has done..and that goes for a bunch of foriegn engines that most machine shops wont touch..so if you have that machinist who really is that good then go for it..I really want you to succeed and you can..I just really don't want you to get burned..like I said in my first post..this engine is very easy..for ring installer get the oil filter style clamps..not the full circle style that use a allen wrench to tighten the rings to pop them in..get yourself a good sized hammer with a wooden handle and gently tap on the top of the piston with the wooden part of the handle..kinda like when you are making the hammer part seat itself back on the wooden handle when its loose..if the hammer stops moving the piston at all stop..redo the ring clamp and try again..only the wieght of the hammer should be applied to the piston..for the bearings get the plastigauge and measure everything..make sure everything is in spec..one major tip do not try and turn or move the motor at all when plastigauge is on the bearings..clean off all and I mean all of it after you have taken your measurement..I can't remember the first motor I built..the last one was in a 02 sonata with a melco motor..runs perfect..I think this could be fun..yostusota2011-06-27 19:35:15

I ran out of space..my phone wouldn't let me post anymore..get yourself a real torque wrench..find a tech that you know and see if you can borrow his..we cherish these things because they are so dern expensive and rarely get used..but they are perfect..mine is aircraft approved..torque angle included..which is the way most all bolts are these days..I really like things to be right on and torque is one thing we can control..make sure you tighten the head bolts to spec and in the specific order as per the book..post any and all questions ..I am here 24/7..

Good luck

Rich

Take your time, make sure everything is clean, and ask someone before doing anything that you have doubts or questions about.
Be vewy careful installing the cam...you can nick the bearings easily, and can knock the rear cam plug out if you slap the cam in too hard.
Use PLENTY of assembly lube. The white lithium based assembly lube is good, and you can mix in a little engine oil with it if ya want. Moly lube is good too, but it will stop up the oil filter quicker than the lithium lube. You'll wanna change the oil filter after break in, anyway.
Installing the piston rings takes patience...don't try to force them, or rush thru installing them on the pistons...you'll regret it. Be sure to stagger the gaps on all of the rings. THere is also a "Top" and "Bottom" to the piston rings. THey usually have a small dimple close to the end gaps to identify the Top, but I have seen some that actually say "Top".
Be sure to pay attention to the "front", or arrow on the pistons, and make sure they all point to the front. Same with the rods...be sure you are installing them in the correct side of the engine, as well as the correct cylinder. There IS a front/rear to rods.
LOTS of assembly lube on the cam and lifters. Most cams come with special lube...USE IT! Even if it is a roller, use plenty of lube.
Be sure your heads go on the correct side of the engine, if they don't have accessory bolt holes in both ends...you'd be surprised at how many people miss this...especially if the heads have been changed.
Check to make sure ALL of the oil galley plugs are in the block, in the back, where the cam plug is, as well as in the front, where the timing chain runs. Most machine shops remove these plugs when they clean the block, but they sometimes forget to put them back in.

How's that?
 Just take your time...don't get in a hurry to do anything. Remember, "Every 1/2 hour job is 1 broken bolt away from being a 3 day ordeal."

Thanks guys, this is great stuff.  Actually more than I expected when I posted the first time   I know y'all are looking out for us less experienced shade tree types, but I'm pretty excited about it and I think I'll be able to pull this off.  I have a number of resources available to me, namely the buddy that lives in my 'hood that just finished his '79 (he let me drive it a few weeks ago).  He assembled the motor as well as most of the rest of the car.  (Rolling chassis with a straight body, but everything else was in boxes).   He's retired and I think he's looking forward to turning a wrench or two on mine now that his is done.  Yep, I'll go slow -- I'm not in any real hurry.  I was hoping for completion for the end of the summer, but since I'm doing front suspension at the same time, I'm OK stretching it out into fall or winter or next spring....  There'll probably be a few more questions coming your way.   Also, the machinist hung the rods for me, assembled the heads, and I'm using a new Eagle crank that he balanced with the full rotating ass'y incl clutch and flywheel.  Got a DVD and three different books as well.  Oh, and I talked torque wrenches today with a guy at work -- he'll let me borrow his high end one that he has from his mechanic days.  

My warning about the heads comes from experience. I have seen early heads that had bosses for all of the acc. bolts, but were not drilled/tapped. I have also seen them that were only drilled/tapped on one end. The time to make sure is when assembling the engine...not once it is installed, and you gots no place to hang the alternator, or A/C.
If you have already checked, and your heads have the correct threaded holes for all your accessories, yer good to go. I'm fairly certain most late, and aftermarket heads will have provisions for the accessories, but you do have to watch out if using early heads.
 I was just throwing that out as a general "Hey...check this out" thing.