Thought I'd post what's bugging me while watching the game....  I can't get my balancer to go on.  I greased it up real well, started it on by hand making sure the woodruff key was lined up, and then tapped it on a bit more with a tape covered hammer.  Then I put the bolt and big thick round washer in and I thought I'd use my impact wrench to get it on the rest of the way.  No go with that.  Then I put a rod in one of the holes of the flywheel (starter's out) to lock the engine and started torquing that bolt by hand.  I started using my 18" breaker bar and then had to upgrade that with a cheater pipe.  I think the bolt is stripped out now and I'm hoping I didn't screw up the crank.  Also the thick round washer is dished out now.  My plan is to get some new bolts (one a bit longer than what I've been using) and I'll use the plate from the puller I used to get the old one off as the "washer"  (wish I'd have done that before).  Is this the right tactic or do I need to get the  thing off and start over - maybe even with a different balancer?  

The balancer should not be that tough to get on...but you prolly knew that. I would NOT try to put it on any further. I'd take it back off and determine what the problem is.
Is this a new balancer?
Is it correct for a 350?
Why is it off to start with?

I think I would get it back off, and do some measuring to determine if the inside diameter of the balancer is to small...and make sure the crankshaft snout is not rusty, or "buggered up" in any way.
Something stinks in Denmark....

Sounds like you should have just watched the game and forgot about working on the car!..I hate crap that should be very simple like this that have the potential for disaster..so stop the install process now..remove the balancer and start checking stuff..a small ratchet should be all you need to pull the balancer back on..18 inch long pry bar and a pipe also is just to much..you need a longer bolt..can't really use the stock one..not long enough..you also need to check the threads in the crank..please pray to the threads gods that its not damaged..chances are the key if off just a little and jammed..
Rich

I'm all ears for this one !!!!

Thanks, guys.  I was pretty sure something was amiss.  Now I know for sure...  It's a brand new balancer and yes, it's for a 350.  It looked just like the old one, except it was black instead of orange.  I did notice, however, that it did not start on as easily as the old one.  (I used the old one to drive on the lower timing sprocket and it worked fine)  I took the balancer off because it's rubber ring was poking out and decided to do the pan, oil pump, timing chain etc. all at the same time.  

Just from my experience when I went to put on my new balancer on my 350 last summer it wouldnt go. I went back to the guy that did the motor for me and he gave me an installer that out it right on. I forget what it was but I am going to see him either monday or tuesday and I will check with him. Is your balancer new? Mine was. it was super tight. I'll see what I can find out.
Rodney

Thanks - yeah, I'd be interested in knowing about that tool.  I think my plan of using the plate from the puller should work fine -- I just need to get a longer bolt.  Glad to know I'm not the only one with the too tight balancer.  I'll get it off one evening this weekend (weekend at the latest) and see if I can figure out what's going on.  

I have a balancer remover/installer.  It has a hardened stud that screws way in to the front of the crank.  Then a larger threaded shaft with a flange that lets you bolt it to the balancer, and a big nut to pull it on or off, depending on how you put it together..  Everything is hardened steel, and there are ball bearings to let the parts rotate easily.

That said, your new balancer should not go on so hard.  Assuming there was no paint inside, and you cleaned it with a Scotchbrite pad, I would take it back.

Larry

  If all is Right with application, try some emery paper. A little fine tuneing should take enough off the surface to lighten the friction. ALSO, check the key and depth for fit. If the key is to tall you can not force the fit. Try fileing the height of it not width. 

Yep, it looks like it's back to the parts house for me.  Hope I can find that receipt....  I got the dang thing off and there's no damage to the bore or the key-way.  The key on the crank is OK, too.  I used emery paper on the crank and the bore of the balancer (even though I did that the first time), filed the key-way a bit, cleaned and greased everything up, and tried to pop it on.  (Longer bolt this time, too).  Still no-go -- way too tight.