Topic: balancer help
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Major setback today. The installing bolt (Grade 8) I was using broke off inside the crank. The break is beyond the tip of the crank - I can't even see the bolt. This could be the tipping point for a rebuild or long block. I guess I could try to get an extractor in there and get the bolt out, but I don't relish that chore and I think the crank's threads are toast anyway. If I used too short of a bolt they wouldn't grab and then with the longer bolt I was using I'm assuming it bottomed out too soon and broke as soon as I put some torque on it.
I'm pretty bummed out. I thought I'd get this thing on the road this spring. Probably won't happen now. The prospect of a new motor is exciting, but that will depend on family finances. Wife said, "Get the taxes done - then we'll see." We'll see.

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Man o man o man o man o man! That's terrible ..I'm not going to think about what went wrong but how to fix this..there is two ways...a grade 8 bolt is hard so buy a bunch of good drill bits find dead center and work your way out..I would suggest a Mac set..high speed and warranty for breakage..and tap out the last bit of bolt..hope you get that far..not easy..forget the extractor..if you break off one of those in there you are done. The other is to replace the crank. This stinks..I got more I just can't think straight right now! This really got me peod! I hate this kinda crap! This really stinks.....
Richyostusota 2011-02-13 23:30:28
Rich

My first parade at Carlisle 2010

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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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Holy Moly! 
Problem is gonna be IF that bolt bottomed out in the crank, then twisted off....it's gonna be next to impossible to ease-out it back out. It's gonna be in there under pressure. Drilling it on center is also gonna be tough, but it would certainly be worth a shot, rather than giving up on it. Drill it out starting with a smaller size, such as 1/4" to start with, then move up as you go, until you get to around 7/16" or so. Then spray some WD40(or whatever you use) down thru the hole and fill up the space. Let that sit for a day, or at least overnight. Then get the best ease-out you can get, and try it. If it doesn't feel like it's gonna budge at all, then it's time to start thinking about a new crank...or engine, if that's the way you're leaning.
I have had several of those bolts break off in the cranks. Some were never to be seen again, but quite a few I got out. A couple even spun farther in while drilling.
It's worth a shot.
btw...If you do get the twisted bolt out, PLEASE buy or borrow the install tool for the balancer...it will certainly make the day go much easier. Most parts houses have one they will rent out, or you could buy one and rent it out to your friends, or sell it on flea-bay(or here, even
).
Adams' Apple 2011-02-14 06:04:45

Problem is gonna be IF that bolt bottomed out in the crank, then twisted off....it's gonna be next to impossible to ease-out it back out. It's gonna be in there under pressure. Drilling it on center is also gonna be tough, but it would certainly be worth a shot, rather than giving up on it. Drill it out starting with a smaller size, such as 1/4" to start with, then move up as you go, until you get to around 7/16" or so. Then spray some WD40(or whatever you use) down thru the hole and fill up the space. Let that sit for a day, or at least overnight. Then get the best ease-out you can get, and try it. If it doesn't feel like it's gonna budge at all, then it's time to start thinking about a new crank...or engine, if that's the way you're leaning.
I have had several of those bolts break off in the cranks. Some were never to be seen again, but quite a few I got out. A couple even spun farther in while drilling.
It's worth a shot.
btw...If you do get the twisted bolt out, PLEASE buy or borrow the install tool for the balancer...it will certainly make the day go much easier. Most parts houses have one they will rent out, or you could buy one and rent it out to your friends, or sell it on flea-bay(or here, even

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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Thanks for the advice and condolences. Still kind of in shock. I'm a little freaked out about trying this, but I may still give it a shot -- not much to lose at this point. Joel, I was a little confused by your drill bit sizes. I think the bolt is only a 5/16" shank so I figured I'd start around 1/8" and work up to 1/4" or close. A guy at work suggested a reverse drill bit - is that a possibility?
Yep, if I do get this thing out I will for sure use an installation tool next time. I probably learned my lesson there. But it might be more likely that I'll be starting a new thread about rebuilding vs. new vs. already rebuilt. I know I won't be just replacing the crank - not for an L-48 w/ 75K on it.

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Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
A 5/16" crank bolt....on a small block? That might be the problem right there! 
Just foolin...
Really, tho...5/16" is smaller than the valve cover bolts...the crank bolt is gonna be a 5/8" bolt, I think...maybe a 3/4".
The reverse drill/bit might help, but IF the bolt has really bottomed on the crank, it prolly won't make any difference which direction the drill spins...the bolts is still gonna be bound up somewhat. It's definitely worth a shot....you're gonna have to drill a hole in it anyway.
Adams' Apple 2011-02-15 06:22:33

Just foolin...

Really, tho...5/16" is smaller than the valve cover bolts...the crank bolt is gonna be a 5/8" bolt, I think...maybe a 3/4".

The reverse drill/bit might help, but IF the bolt has really bottomed on the crank, it prolly won't make any difference which direction the drill spins...the bolts is still gonna be bound up somewhat. It's definitely worth a shot....you're gonna have to drill a hole in it anyway.

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
You must be talking head size - I meant the shank. It does use a 5/8" socket, but the shank measures 7/16" (I was 1/8" off in my estimation). I think I'll try the reverse drill/bit plan first to see what happens. Probably start around 3/16" or 1/4" and work my way out.

Moderator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Who says size doesn't matter? 
Yer right tho...a 5/8" socket is usually a 7/16" bolt size. For some reason, I'm thinking the crank bolt is larger that that....shows how long it's been since I did any engine werk!
Whatever...Good Luck with it, and I sure hope it comes out!

Yer right tho...a 5/8" socket is usually a 7/16" bolt size. For some reason, I'm thinking the crank bolt is larger that that....shows how long it's been since I did any engine werk!

Whatever...Good Luck with it, and I sure hope it comes out!

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
We'll see, I'm hoping, too. Not sure I'll try this weekend or not. Might need a longer break from the thing than that. Rich -- thanks for the offer, not sure you want me ruining or nice new set of bits, though!
They are snap on warranty for life..I breakem just to piss of the guy I bought them from..got to get your money out of them somehow!
Rich
Rich

My first parade at Carlisle 2010
in Forum: C3 Engines
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