Well I tried to fire up my engine today after swapping out my manifold for a rpm air gap. I must of had my distributor off and it backfired on me while I started to crank my motor over. What followed was a horrible rattle from the started after that. I investigated and saw my starter kicked out. The inner bolt bent, and the outer bolt hole got cracked. My question is how can I repair the cracked cast iron block so that my starter can mount properly again? I want to avoid pulling the motor and dissasemble it at all costs. I know you cannot just arc weld cast iron back together. Is brazing a possiblity? Help me I'm about to cry .

  Try JB Weld. You can drill and tap it. We use it on blocks at work. Stuff is amazing and cheap too. It may be a temporary fix though, seeing that the starter torque may weaken it. Is the hole itself cracked? You may be able to heli-coil it. You may be able to fill the hole with the JB and run a tap through it.  Just a couple of thoughts.................Good luck!!!

                                                            Reid  "72 T-top

   I also used JB Weld on my 53 Ford truck to "rebuild " the door striker that had worn down from years of use. worked like a champ!

Hey, Tumarr, contrary to what you've heard, cast iron can be welded. There are cast iron rods for "stick welders", and I've welded many blocks in the same place yours is broken. I've even welded new bosses for motor-mounts that got ripped out on our old circletrack cars.(they do that when you try to drive 'em upside down! )
If the JB Weld doesn't work for you, try to find a machine shop, or a good body shop to weld it for ya. Unfortunately, it may require removal to do it, just depending on the location of the damage, and how tight it is to get to in the car.

It's a real bummer, tho, that it happened. Just know that you're not the first one it's happened to!(yeah, like that helps ) I hope you can get it fixed.

Yes, cast iron can be welded, but it is best that the block be heated up prior to the welding.  If not, it's a risky job.  I'd try the JB weld for a quick fix and if it holds, some day you will want to work on the engine, then you can pull it and have it properly welded.

Mark

 

I dont think JB weld will work for my block nor can helicoils because the whole chunk of cast iron is cracked off. I mean its the half of the hole left in the block and the other half is cracked off and is just holding on by a little bit. I did some reserch into Arc sticks that work for cast iron and found this product. muggyweld

I read some of the testamonials and see the very first one. Sounds very similar. I'll give it a shot.

Tom, that is a bummer this happened. I would be careful with any of the products packaged in a tube, they might interfere with a good weld later. There's one guy I know in Aurora, name is Gary Comer of Comer's welding. He is a very good welder, if anyone can fix that he could. Try 411 for his number, his shop is on route 31, south of the downtown area. Hope everything works out okay.

I found a guy in addison whos gonna fix it on monday. He said he only needs to remove my header to get at it and is gonna charge about 100 bucks to do it. since I dont have a arc welder and need to buy the sticks for just one weld this seems like a better idea. thanks for the suggestion steve, if this guy fails, I'll call him up.

Hey Tumar,

    Good luck with the repair. I had a 350 welded on the rear manifold ledge and it worked out really well. I would strongly suggest going for a mini-starter after the repair if you're not using one already. If you ask for a 90-or 91 S10 starter from the parts counter, they'll come out with a small OEM replacement starter that fits both SB and BB.

We use them to crank over 14:1 big blocks and they don't even struggle. By the way, mailing the air cleaner lid for you today - I was on active duty for a couple of weeks training troops preparing to deploy. Sorry for the delay.

Luke

Thanks Luke! That sounds like a great suggestion on the starter. I cant complain about the lid since its free!

The welder will know this, but put a 3/8" shaft of carbon in the existing bolt hole to keep it from filling completely up with welded metal and sl*g.  The carbon holds shape against the weld heat.  Sounds like he's a competent welder, so he will know it.  Especially if he is the one drilling it out and retapping the 3/8" 16 threads.