Topic: body/chassis issues
in Forum: C3 Engines
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!
I posed this question before with slightly different wording. There is 1.25" of chassis (rails) showing underneath both rocker mouldings, I mean it sticks out like sore thumb.
While looking underneath, I saw several body mount locations. There are thick rubber cushions (1") between the body and chassis and in fairly good condition (as in recently installed). I was under the impression that a '72 had aluminum discs between body/chassis. Could this be reason for that much rail showing? What thickness were these alum. discs and are they even available still? Any input would be greatly appreciated, Guys.
Have a good one
JR - Miramar,FL
While looking underneath, I saw several body mount locations. There are thick rubber cushions (1") between the body and chassis and in fairly good condition (as in recently installed). I was under the impression that a '72 had aluminum discs between body/chassis. Could this be reason for that much rail showing? What thickness were these alum. discs and are they even available still? Any input would be greatly appreciated, Guys.
Have a good one

JR - Miramar,FL
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
The original spacers you refer to were made of a ceramic looking material on my 69. The replacement body mount kit was aluminum. Each aluminum disk was an estimated 1/2 inch thick with shims for where needed. Your frame rails should not be showing as you describe.
|UPDATED|3/27/2004 6:51:12 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|3/27/2004 6:51:12 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Thanks for your advice, Red...Guess this is a little over the heads of most shadetree mechanics like myself. I'm assuming the body has to come off completely, even if it's just a couple of inches, to swap these out.
JR
JR
Starting in '73, corvette used a "soft" mount. Some people replaced the old hard mounts with them to cut down on vibration. I'm actually going to do that on my '68.
I just got mine out of the bag, and you're right, they are thicker. Now I'm curious if there's a torque spec for these, you'd think they may crush some while tightening them, that's got to wreak havoc with door fit!
Any body out there have any experience with that?
I just got mine out of the bag, and you're right, they are thicker. Now I'm curious if there's a torque spec for these, you'd think they may crush some while tightening them, that's got to wreak havoc with door fit!
Any body out there have any experience with that?

The body does not need to come off to replace the spacers. You only need to remove the mounting bolts and jack the area enough to free the spacer and replace it. They need to be replaced so the body is not torqued unevenly. If this happens, it will create issues with the doors closing/fit properly. You can do it if you are careful. The hardest are the mounts in front of the rear wheel and inside the kick panel. A good Corvette or body shop should be able to do it for under $100. A new body mount kit will cost $89.95 from Zip.

I was thinking your car was a 72, sorry, the 73 and later used a rubber spacer that only cost $18.95 and pictured below. If frame rust is not an issue, the job is straight forward.

|UPDATED|3/28/2004 5:50:53 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
I was thinking your car was a 72, sorry, the 73 and later used a rubber spacer that only cost $18.95 and pictured below. If frame rust is not an issue, the job is straight forward.
|UPDATED|3/28/2004 5:50:53 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
They will crush down as far as the bushing is long. Remember, the body/frame sits between the 2 rubber mounts so that’s only half the distance of the bushing when you check the measurement. You can tell when that happens because the bolts stop turning at that point. The rubber will bubble out as it is compressed quit a bit so don't let it scare you. You will need to check the steering coupler alignment after they are all bolted down completely. If you try to hook it up before that the body will be to high.
|UPDATED|3/28/2004 6:38:26 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|3/28/2004 6:38:26 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Brian - NCM Lifetime Member
73 coupe L48, Flat-top pistons, Performer RPM Heads, Crane Cam and roller rockers, Holley 650 vac sec. Performer intake,
3.55 gear BTO 200-4R trans,
Leather seats, Seatbelt Plus 3point seatbelts, Pioneer CD player
Magnaflow Exhuast System
Dewitt radiator and dual electric fans
Borgeson Steering box

On 2&3 they go down against the frame. On 1&4 they go up against the body. In both cases the rubber end with the small section with a lip on it fits in the 1 1/8" hole and the other rubber part then goes over it. The 73+ frames had a 1 1/8 hole in the frame #1&4 mount positions and the rocker channels have it in the 2&3 mount positions. The bolt than goes through it with 1&4 using a nut and 2&3 screwing into the nut captured to the frame.
|UPDATED|3/28/2004 5:33:03 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|3/28/2004 5:33:03 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Brian - NCM Lifetime Member
73 coupe L48, Flat-top pistons, Performer RPM Heads, Crane Cam and roller rockers, Holley 650 vac sec. Performer intake,
3.55 gear BTO 200-4R trans,
Leather seats, Seatbelt Plus 3point seatbelts, Pioneer CD player
Magnaflow Exhuast System
Dewitt radiator and dual electric fans
Borgeson Steering box

in Forum: C3 Engines
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)