Topic: break-in oil/additive
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Lifetime MemberEquinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2465
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
Anybody have opinions as to the type/kind of break-in substance for a re-build. Joe Gibbs oil is what I have. Do I use 5 qts of this or 1 and add 4 other qts of quality oil? Is the additive in pints better? I am told as long as the ZINK and PHOSPHEROUS is in there thata all I need for break-in. I am also told that ROTELLA DIESEL oil has all content of chemicals needed. Can I mix the Gibbs oil with Rotella with out a problem? THANKS Mark
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Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
My brother's shop typically breaks in their engines with diesel oil. Never blowd one up yet!! 
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Lifetime MemberManteca, CA - USA
Joined: 11/20/2005
Posts: 3623
Vette(s): 1978,two tone,Metalic Rootbeer & gold
1975 L48 4 speed
Those oils should mix just fine. I believe all oils are reasonably compatible but, they used to warn against mixing synthetics with conventional oils, but I don't believe that's even a problem anymore. "I'M NO EXPERT". I've always used my own recipe of oils and additives and after 20 yrs. my motors still hardly use oil. In fact I've never retired a vehicle because the motor was worn out. Usually the electronics begin to act up and I can't diagnose relays, senders and computer stuff so I give up on the car.
Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again. 
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Alot of people used to use diesel oil because of the zink phospherous additive but the mfg's removed it, also diesel oil doesn't have high rpm additives because diesels don't turn high rpm, all regular motor oils has had the zink- phos. removed because most new motors have roller cams and don't need the high pressure additive of zink, also zink gums up the oxy sensor's, for a flat tappet new motor break in I recomend a good 30 W detergent motor oil with a can of GM engine Oil Suppliment Pt#1052367, for the run in, if you have a high cap. pan add two bottles of EOS, change the oil after a couple hundred miles and add a bottle or two of "ZDDPlus" zink-phos. additive one bottle treats 5 Qt's, synthetic motor oil is NOT a good break in oil, its too slick of an oil it runs off the parts too fast for break in, after break in its ok. anips 2010-03-09 09:40:53
I agree with "anips" on everything except for one thing. I'd use 10W30 oil. It's just my opinion but it will reach the smaller crevis's more thoroughly for the break-in period. Good luck with it, and by the way, your pic of your Vette looks great. I really like that color combo.
Lifetime MemberEquinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2465
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
MANY THANKS to ALL who added thoughts. Mark
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Oak Creek, WI - USA
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Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190 hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vettes Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!! Now own a 1998 C-5!
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Dan
Good Afternoon All,
If I may interject my thoughts on the break in oil and procedure. I build engines almost daily and start them on my engine start up stand unless the customer starts it up,albeit follows my procedure.
I use 10w30 Castrol or some other quality oil for the seasoning of the cam/lifters and run up @2400 rpm for 24 minutes.When this run is completed and the run timing is set,make carb adjustment for continuing running, I dump the oil and water, ship out the engine to the customer for installation, or he proceeds to the next step which is, add fresh oil and filter that he/she would use in the area they are located,i.e. Florida 10w30,10w40, or wherever they may live and their brand preference.Colder areas require different weights to compensate for the weather.They would run this oil for 400-450 miles and dump oil and filter then you can go to synthetic if you desire.
I have spoke to Castrol and others who offer synthetic oil and they have no reservations going from typical oil to synthetic oils.There is no question regarding 'roller lifter's,as there is little or no friction where the lack of zinc is a problem.Most of the typical oils still have zinc in the formulation.I have and continue to use 10w40 Castrol oil for at least 25 years or more in my vehicles without a problem.
Have a great day and good luck....
Sal C
Lifetime MemberIrving, TX - USA
Joined: 8/21/2004
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I only use Rotella T in my rebuild, it has the minerals for the old small block, zinc & phosphorus. Don't believe what you read on the internet.
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MICK - C3VR Lifetime Member #113
in Forum: C3 Engines
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