Nothing came with my mew remanufacture short motor from Texas.  Whenever I rebuild and engine, I just run normal 20W-50 and remember to change it after about 100 to 200 miles.  As stated above, as long as you get to wash all the installation lube and any missed dirt etc out in that first couple of hundred miles, you will have an engine that will last for many hundreds of thousands.  The rings don't really need any special compound to bed in, they and bearings will do this with normal oil.

[QUOTE=Chips58]Nothing came with my mew remanufacture short motor from Texas.  Whenever I rebuild and engine, I just run normal 20W-50 and remember to change it after about 100 to 200 miles.  As stated above, as long as you get to wash all the installation lube and any missed dirt etc out in that first couple of hundred miles, you will have an engine that will last for many hundreds of thousands.  The rings don't really need any special compound to bed in, they and bearings will do this with normal oil.[/QUOTE]

I Was always told to always break in a new or rebuilt engine using only mineral based oils.... somehow its better for the break in period..

A few things we need to keep into perspective.

   If Your going to go by every old Wives Tale then You must Run 30wt Break In Oil and Not Mutiweight. Never run Synthetic Oil. GM put it in the C4 Vettes around 1990 but a little known Fact is that if they Used Synthetic it can handle Higher Temps so then they didn't need the Engine Oil Cooler and therefore was Cheaper to Build. The only 30wt left in most Autoparts Stores these Days is the Cheapest Remanufactured Oil made and I'm not so sure thats what You want. The Latest wives Tale is that due to Emisions the Latest Oils arn't as good as they Used to be and Deisel Oil hasn't fallowed Suit Yet. So You are supossed to Use Delo 400 30Wt the first Couple Hundred and then Your favorite Mineral Auto Oil and then Sythetic.... Oh and I supose Your Rebuilt Engine dosn't have the old Cork Style Gaskets anywhere Cause Synthetic will go right through them. Richard.... 

I have heard that the new oils don't have all the additives that the old oils had. This can be death to a new cam. My neighbor went through two cams before he found out he needed to use break-in oil for the first 500 miles.
And don't run it at constant speed for long durations.

[QUOTE=dwright]I have heard that the new oils don't have all the additives that the old oils had. This can be death to a new cam. My neighbor went through two cams before he found out he needed to use break-in oil for the first 500 miles.
And don't run it at constant speed for long durations.[/QUOTE]

On the last cam replacement my neighbor used straight 30W oil with the GM EOS. So far, so good. That was last May.

[QUOTE=dwright]I have heard that the new oils don't have all the additives that the old oils had. This can be death to a new cam. My neighbor went through two cams before he found out he needed to use break-in oil for the first 500 miles.
And don't run it at constant speed for long durations.[/QUOTE]

I had a similar debate when we built my big block. The only commonality I could find was really basic. The synthetics run cooler and my engine guy wanted to get the engine to heat to seat the cam. Once the engine cranked and run to seat the cam, the oilcame out. Kind of like Ben is saying, my guy has a similar mindset, any kind of debris can get in there during assembly.Oil is a lot cheaper than another rebuild.