I still say take your plugs out to do a compression test, while there out look at how each plug looks and keep track of what cylinder they came out of. In the compression test look for consistency of pressures in each cylinder. If any of your lifters are collasped on the intake side you should have weak or no compression. Also you might have lost compression from worn rings in your pistons. Once you determine if you have a healthy engine then look at that ignition system. Check plugs, wires, coil, good charge to the coil, check your engines timing. Check if the vacuum advance is working.

|UPDATED|11/10/2004 8:41:04 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I very seriously doubt that the lifters not oiling at
100% would make this difference.

I would be much more likely to belive that the 0-60 time advertised was with an optional rear end, not a 3.08...

new77guy said: I say that after 1 minute solid not in motion burnout you will probably chip some teeth on the flywheel, overheat the tranny... (Other than that you are cool) if you are power-sliding, driving, and burning out it wont matter b/c the tranny is still in motion.

this part makes no sense..

even if you are in a motionless burnout.. (which I used to do by sitting through red-lights)

the transmission is still spinning and has less load on it than if you floored it up a hill with good traction.

you arent going to break any teeth on the flywheel as hopefully you arent engaging the starter during your motionless burnout. The teeth of the flywheel do nothing once the car is started.

the worst wear is on the tires.. the six U-joints on your car are the weakest links.. you dont want one of these to come apart..

as for the 1st burnout being ok but all subsequent ones breaking something..

no way.. With the 429 SCJ Galaxie I used to make smokescreens during redlights.. I never had a single problem with the driveline. There is always a risk something will break.. whether it is a new car, old car, stock, rodded, etc.

no guts.. no glory..

Sounds like you were scaring the little old ladys sitting next to you at the lights! Great FUN!

No Ben, engaging the starter during a burn out gives you a couple extra ft lbs of torque so you can lay more rubber down. You didnt know this...Jeeze. Now I bet your gonna say that huge whale tail spoilers on front wheel drive street cars are no good or that fart can mufflers don't help performance. LOL

|UPDATED|11/10/2004 11:56:13 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Tumarr said: Sounds like you were scaring the little old ladys sitting next to you at the lights! Great FUN! No Ben, engaging the starter during a burn out gives you a couple extra ft lbs of torque so you can lay more rubber down. You didnt know this...Jeeze. Now I bet your gonna say that huge whale tail spoilers on front wheel drive street cars are no good or that fart can mufflers don't help performance. LOL

I'm not sure I understand the logic behind engaging the starter (unless it's in the left handed screwdriver category)
The high pitched whine of a fart can just reminds me of a spoiled kid throwing a tantrum WHAAAAAAAH!

I'm with Ben on this one. The lifter is not really going to make that big of a difference

Once the tires are spinning, there is not much torque transferred to the ground as compaired to a full throttle application without spinning, so there is fact less force on the car once they are spinning.

Starting them spinning is another thing. You must overcome the traction to start with. IF this is done gradually, it's not a big problem, but there is maximum strain on the drive line and suspension at this point just as the tires start to break loose. If you drop the clutch or bang it into gear, the shock can be very high, and do some serious damage.

So how you do the burn out makes a difference in the stress and wear applied.

Next is the rotating factor. With an open rear end the speed difference between axles is very excessive, and the spider gears in the rear diff will likely fail if the burn out is continued for any period of time. Granted a posi traction eliminates this due to the fact that both sides spin at the same speed.

The transmission and ring and pinion, as well as the u-joints don't care if the car is sitting still spinning the tires at 60 mph, or going down the road at 60 mph. If the torque applies is the same, it does not make any difference. At Wide Open Throttle, you could have more torque while moving than when doing a burn out due to loss of traction at the tires. Spinning tires don't grip.

So to wrap up. How you start the burn out makes a huge difference in wear and stress, and in what breaks. This is where you do the damage.
Maintaining a burnout won't hurt any more than full throttle acelleration, except for the tires and brakes. These are slipping and frying, with severe wear.

Bottom line, the faster you go, the more is cost. But it's fun.

Darn Ken! I was reeally waiting on yours and Ben's take on the added hosepower from the starter!

Some really good info here. I think this closed the subject between my freiend and I. Just one question. If I am going to be getting the MSD 6AL Ignition, Billit MSD Distrib, and the MSD blaster SS coil, should I get the
41384 1969-82 Power Master Chrome 140 Amp Alternator $199.99 EA.
A4851 1969-82 Power Master Chrome 63 Amp Alternator $119.99 EA.
A5853 1969-82 Power Master Chrome 85 Amp Alternator
$129.99 EA. ?

new77guy said: Some really good info here. I think this closed the subject between my freiend and I. Just one question. If I am going to be getting the MSD 6AL Ignition, Billit MSD Distrib, and the MSD blaster SS coil, should I get the 41384 1969-82 Power Master Chrome 140 Amp Alternator $199.99 EA. A4851 1969-82 Power Master Chrome 63 Amp Alternator $119.99 EA. A5853 1969-82 Power Master Chrome 85 Amp Alternator $129.99 EA. ?

the msd system isnt going to make a huge difference in current draw..

I run mine with a stock alternator..

Well Dave, with my tongue firmly in my cheek, here goes

The extra torque from the started is only effective when a high torque starter is used. The older larger starter motors have a greater mass and greater speed at the outside of the rotor assy, therfore greater stress is placed on the starter bearings creating extra drag at anything over 1500 rpm, negating the advantage. A high torque starter helps to overcome this. The smaller motor has less drag at high speeds. But the power required to operate the starter is another issue. Due to the fact that the alternator is trying to keep up with the demand, the extra alternator load on the engine negates the added torque from the starter. You now have a break even effect. The negative come into place from the extra heat generated by both the starter and the alternator, and alternator belt. This reduced cooling system performance, allowing the engine to run hotter, thus reducing total Horsepower, and causing the car to run slower. Besides the noise from the starter makes it sound like a ricer. Very annoying.


How's that for a load of crap?

|UPDATED|11/11/2004 5:31:39 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|