Topic: Carb and torque converter questions
in Forum: C3 Engines
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I've come across an early '70's Corvette Quadrajet carb that's listed as for a manual transmission. Could that carb be used as a direct, bolt-on replacement for a Quad currently on a '78 auto trans?
Second question: eventually I'd like to change our TH350 auto over to a 700R4. I've also come across the following item that is apparently designed for the 700R4, and I'd like to know if it would be useful for that changeover:
TCI breakaway non-lockup torque converter/2800-3000 stall.
Thanks to anyone who can advise me on these two items.
Second question: eventually I'd like to change our TH350 auto over to a 700R4. I've also come across the following item that is apparently designed for the 700R4, and I'd like to know if it would be useful for that changeover:
TCI breakaway non-lockup torque converter/2800-3000 stall.
Thanks to anyone who can advise me on these two items.
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Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
as for the use of a MT q-jet on an auto.... I have done it quite a few times without incident. I have also run an AT on a Manual as well (my 4 spd chev truck is running a AT q0jet).
I dont know the exact reason they have an MT and AT version of the q-jet..
but I am going to hazard a guess and say it deals with the timing of the secondaries and the amount of vacuum required to keep them open.

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
on the second question..
the stall converter will help if you want your stall that high..
if you are going to race the car i would say get it.
if you want a street car.. i would say dont get it.
in all likelyhood you are changing to a 700r4 so that you can have an overdrive. and therefore probably want a street car.
also..
I would recommned going to a 200r4 anyway as it is the same size as a thm350 and will require fewer mods.
unless you are building a 10 second car... a beefed up 200r4 is just as good as a beefed up 700r4

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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Ben has you covered on the carbatator, so I'll give a point on the convertor.
IF you run a non-lock up TC on a 700, the valvebody MUST be reworked to provide lubrication to the unit, and cooler flow. The 700, and most other O/D trannys require lockup to help cool the trans. Also, the oil circuits in the trans rely on the lockup apply to route the fluid thru the cooler when in lockup mode.
In my opinion, running a non-lockup setup on a street car is bad news. If you are just drag racing once a month, it's a different deal.
You can get a regular/stall, lockup style TC for a 700 and be mooch better off in da long run.
Also, going to a 3000rpm stall TC for a street car is pushing your luck in the durability department. I would reccomend staying at/below 2500rpm. A 3000rpm TC is going to make it feel like the trans is slipping it's guts out before it ever starts moving the car, not to mention the insane amount of heat that a high stall TC produces. Add the massive heat generated in with no/low cooler flow with a non-lu TC...well...I do build trannys that have been melted...I'll give ya a good deal!!!
IF you run a non-lock up TC on a 700, the valvebody MUST be reworked to provide lubrication to the unit, and cooler flow. The 700, and most other O/D trannys require lockup to help cool the trans. Also, the oil circuits in the trans rely on the lockup apply to route the fluid thru the cooler when in lockup mode.
In my opinion, running a non-lockup setup on a street car is bad news. If you are just drag racing once a month, it's a different deal.
You can get a regular/stall, lockup style TC for a 700 and be mooch better off in da long run.
Also, going to a 3000rpm stall TC for a street car is pushing your luck in the durability department. I would reccomend staying at/below 2500rpm. A 3000rpm TC is going to make it feel like the trans is slipping it's guts out before it ever starts moving the car, not to mention the insane amount of heat that a high stall TC produces. Add the massive heat generated in with no/low cooler flow with a non-lu TC...well...I do build trannys that have been melted...I'll give ya a good deal!!!

Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
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Thanks for the very valuable info on both these questions, cthulhu. I was wondering about the choke and/or transmission valve hookup differences between these carbs specifically, as well as their overall 'interchangeability', and being a real beginner in my knowledge of Q-jets, I figured somebody on here would be able to educate me.
Yes, you're right about my trans goals--strictly a street car, never going to see the track. So based upon your advice, I'm going to pass on the TCI torque converter.
I've been reading about the 200/700 upgrades, and from what I've gleaned, the 200 is basically a swap-in/bolt-on deal, with no driveshaft shortening required. But some have said it's not as strong/desirable a unit as the 700, even though that trans does require modifications to be able to fit. So your assurance that a well-built 200 is the equal of a 700 is good news.
I appreciate your quick reply--due to severe budget restraints I'm not able to do anything substantial on the car for the foreseeable future, but these two unexpected opportunities popped up at what appeared to be very good prices, so I needed some expert advice...which is what I got!
Yes, you're right about my trans goals--strictly a street car, never going to see the track. So based upon your advice, I'm going to pass on the TCI torque converter.
I've been reading about the 200/700 upgrades, and from what I've gleaned, the 200 is basically a swap-in/bolt-on deal, with no driveshaft shortening required. But some have said it's not as strong/desirable a unit as the 700, even though that trans does require modifications to be able to fit. So your assurance that a well-built 200 is the equal of a 700 is good news.
I appreciate your quick reply--due to severe budget restraints I'm not able to do anything substantial on the car for the foreseeable future, but these two unexpected opportunities popped up at what appeared to be very good prices, so I needed some expert advice...which is what I got!
And thanks very much to you Joel for the same sage advice. I just missed your reply as I was responding to cthulhu's. Definitely don't want to be cooking any transmissions to the melting point, or anywhere near it for that matter! (I'll save that for the occasional (mis)adventure in the kitchen...)
Like the topic of timing, I still have to get my head around the arcane world of torque converters, lock-ups, stall rates, etc. So each time you guys chime in with answers, I get a little more educated. May take me a long time to absorb it all, but I really appreciate the wisdom you share here!
Like the topic of timing, I still have to get my head around the arcane world of torque converters, lock-ups, stall rates, etc. So each time you guys chime in with answers, I get a little more educated. May take me a long time to absorb it all, but I really appreciate the wisdom you share here!

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
[QUOTE=SFVette]Thanks for the very valuable info on both these questions, cthulhu. I was wondering about the choke and/or transmission valve hookup differences between these carbs specifically, as well as their overall 'interchangeability', and being a real beginner in my knowledge of Q-jets, I figured somebody on here would be able to educate me.
Yes, you're right about my trans goals--strictly a street car, never going to see the track. So based upon your advice, I'm going to pass on the TCI torque converter. [/QUOTE]
cthulhu 2006-10-02 12:57:59
Yes, you're right about my trans goals--strictly a street car, never going to see the track. So based upon your advice, I'm going to pass on the TCI torque converter. [/QUOTE]
yes.. and Joels more scientific treatment of the converter magnifies my answer more.. I didnt even notice the non lockup part.. I need to quit skimming.
on the 200 vs 700... its a street car.. the 200r4 is fine..
for racing apps I thought most people were going to 4L80E's anyway..
you do have to have a stud on the throttle for the kick down cable.
off hand I think you can just take the one off your existing carb and put it on the new one.. the vacuum mod is connected to the intake, not the carb.
you will need to be able to connect the TV cable to the carb with a 200/700r4... either way.. i think its the same stud as the 350 kickdown.

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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Almost!!
The 700/2004R trans uses a "throttle valve"(TV) cable to control the line pressure/up/down shifting in the trans. The 350 uses a "Kickdown/detent" cable...strictly for passing gear, or keeping the trans from upshifting under heavy throttle. The vaccuum modulator on the 350 controls the normal upshift timing dooties.
The geometry of the two cable systems is vastly different. The 700/2004R needs a cable/linkage that will vary the line pressure according to the throttle input. The geometry of the linkage on a carb that is set up for a 350 kickdown cable will not work properly on a 700/2004R. There are, however, aftermarket linkage "kits" that will modify most carbs so they will operate the TV cable systems.
So...while the trans(2004R) will bolt in fairly easily, there are a few other things that must be modified to make it work correctly.
And...as Ben said, the 2004R can be made to survive in the real world. Just takes a little more cash than a 700R4.
You can salvage all the parts needed to install a 700 in a Shark from an '82 model...there's less "fabrication" involved that way.
The 700/2004R trans uses a "throttle valve"(TV) cable to control the line pressure/up/down shifting in the trans. The 350 uses a "Kickdown/detent" cable...strictly for passing gear, or keeping the trans from upshifting under heavy throttle. The vaccuum modulator on the 350 controls the normal upshift timing dooties.

The geometry of the two cable systems is vastly different. The 700/2004R needs a cable/linkage that will vary the line pressure according to the throttle input. The geometry of the linkage on a carb that is set up for a 350 kickdown cable will not work properly on a 700/2004R. There are, however, aftermarket linkage "kits" that will modify most carbs so they will operate the TV cable systems.
So...while the trans(2004R) will bolt in fairly easily, there are a few other things that must be modified to make it work correctly.
And...as Ben said, the 2004R can be made to survive in the real world. Just takes a little more cash than a 700R4.

You can salvage all the parts needed to install a 700 in a Shark from an '82 model...there's less "fabrication" involved that way.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
And yes, Ben nailed it on the carb. The link is there for an automatic, and not the manual, and the secondary air valve has a slightly different adjustment. And Joel has it covered.
Bowtieoverdrive.com has crossmembers for both 200-700 trans.They have a wealth of information on these transmissions. It is worth checking them out.They have the answer to most any question you may have about the 200-700. If you do use a 700 get a 87 or later because the input shaft is stronger(more splines). The neat thing about Bowties' crossmembers is they have plenty of clearance for a 3" exhaust and it doesn't have to go through the crossmember. I have one from them for a built 700r4 for my 76 with a 396. You may not want to use a 3" on a small block.
As for the stall converter try not to go much over a 2400 for the street and use a lockup type. If you do use higher than stock stall converter be sure to use a trans cooler to help it from cooking. Remember heat is a trans' number one enemy. As for the Quadrajunk I mean jet. Get a Edelbrock carb and manifold. You will be happier in the long run. Its easy to work with and less complicated.
As for the stall converter try not to go much over a 2400 for the street and use a lockup type. If you do use higher than stock stall converter be sure to use a trans cooler to help it from cooking. Remember heat is a trans' number one enemy. As for the Quadrajunk I mean jet. Get a Edelbrock carb and manifold. You will be happier in the long run. Its easy to work with and less complicated.
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