Hey all,

Just want to know the opinions of the C3 nation with regards to chemical engine additives. There are zillions on the market do any of them stand out to any of you guys, or are they all just a bit of a money waste.

Also a product like slick50 - helps re-claim horsepower, re-seal piston rings and all that crap - sounds to me like it may cause more problems than good.

I am fairly mechanically inclined but not as experienced as some of you guys so I would love to hear your thoughts as to what is good and what to avoid.

This area is a real can of worms, so to speak. People swear by and swear at aftermarket additives. I don't believe most hurt anything beyond lightening your wallet.

I do have my preferences though...either through experience or just plain being old-fashioned. I date myself when I say I always use a can of STP with an oil change...an old habit I can't seem to break. It comes from an old friend who used to rebuild engines and swore by STP...but that was years ago and lubricants today are far better than the olden days.

My Dad used to swear by Marvel Mystery Oil which is still available. An old retired mechanic whom I've always thought one of the best natural mechanics I ever saw believed in Wynn's Friction Proofing, which I haven't seen in years, and don't know if it's on the market anymore.

One product I once tried that did work was Bearin' Seal. I had a Studebaker Avanti whose engine leaked oil very badly (in the time proven manner of all Stude V8's). A can of Bearin' Seal reduced the leaks to a seepage until the engine was rebuilt. I believe whatever chemical in it cause the seals to swell and close up leaks. This may not be a long term fix, but it served its purposes at the time.

Another good product, though not an engine additive, is a good fuel anti-freeze and water absorber. They are very effective.

I tried Slick 50 once...saw no benefit whatsoever. I think anything that promises it's a "tune-up" or "engine-rebuild" in a can is a waste of time and money, just like the pellets you used to be able to buy that would reseal an engine when you dropped them into a cylinder.

This is going to be interesting to see what everyone thinks. So many additives...it will be something to read everyone's opinions on them, good and bad.

Gunslinger, it sounds like we're from the same "era". my additive of choice was Bardahl. can't find it either these days. tried Slick 50 myself and am of the same opinion, no noticable benefit.

Gee Hank...Bardahl! That really dates us both! That was one of the big names when I was young.

oh wait, I mean my Dad told me about Bardahl.

Anyone ever hear of a chemical additive called Sea Foam? I tried it for what I thought was a sticking lifter. The jury is still out as I never confirmed that this was the problem!

A bit of background on me first. I am an ASE Master Auto, Master Truck, Master Paint & Body, Engine Block Machinist, Engine Assembly, Advanced Engine Performance, Certified Technician. I am listed in the Automotive Hall Of Fame in Detroit. I have over 90 articles published in trade magazines. I hosted a call in radio show for 5 years on Saturday afternoons, 1590 AM in Akron OH. I have fixed cars for 25 years have been in the auto business for over 30 years, and teach auto repair at Stark State College of Technology. When I had my own shop and when I worked as the traner/training manager for ALLEN TESTPRODUCTS, I did independent testing and research on many products. These test were done on real world cars, not in a lab. All were tested before and after with automotive test procedure and equipment.

Many chemicals can be usefull in specfic situations. They can clean, soften, coat, etc. If you have a leaking crank seal in fair condition, the correct chemical may help soften and restore seal operation. If the seal is damaged, nothing will help, and the same product could make the situation worse. It's not a great loss, you needed to fix it anyway. The same chemical in a gasket won't do anything. If you match the correct chemical to the correct problem, you can have some level of improvement.

In the chemical world, NOTHING will fix bad or broken components!

Some chemicals will improve performance of worn parts IF you match the chemical to the problem. This is only putting a temporary bandage on a problem. However this temporary treatment will sometimes get you by for an extended period of time, and lessen long term damage before a correct repair can be made.

The majority of (not all) chemicals in a engine in good condition will do more harm than good. Products that will work in an older engine and help, may cause harm in a newer tighter engine, rapidly turning it into an older engine, which will then maintain it's status quo by using the product.

Any fairly good engine will benifit from a good chemical cleaner. Keeping the carbon out and the engine clean will always help, and is a good idea.

Some products are always good. Carefull, these are far and few between. This is to say you may notice an improvement, and may not, but will long term increase the life of the engine. From much independent testing of many products, one of these few is Slick 50. It does help. Many products from Justice Brothers are very good, again this depends on the application.

Some products are always bad. Belt dressing from anyone is nothing but adhesive. It attracts dirt and turns your belt into sand paper. It may work short term, but it is always a negative long term, and many times short term. Here you just need to fix the problem without the product.

Friction modifiers are bad in an automatic transmission, but cleaners may be fine.

Viscosity modifiers (STP, Motor Honey, etc) can be good in a worn engine, but will hurt a good one. It thickens the oil. Oil that is too thick won't flow into small spaces, and can actually starve some components for lubrication, causing increased wear. Worn compnents with large worn oil passages will have increased oil film, and will benefit from thicker oil. This same compairson is true for motor oil. Oil that is too light won't provide the cushion to keep metal wear to a minimum. Oil too thick won't flow where it needs to be, and won't provide the cushion to keep metal wear to a minimum. And exstream on either end will cause component failure. Most newer engines use a lighter oil due to closer machining clearances compared to older design engines.

If you have specfic product questions, I may be able to answer them. I may not. It's worth asking. Be sure to tell me what you plan on doing with the product. Age, mileage, wear, noise, etc that is a problem you are trying to cure or avoid. I don't have all of the answers, but I do have many. If I don't know the product tell me what it is like, thick, thin, detergent, or what the can says it will do, and I can probably help.

I'm sorry for my very long answer, but I don't know how to provide a shorter answer that would help.

Ken Styer

Sea Foam is one I did test. It does have some cleaning benefits, and I have not seen any harm using it as an oil additive. If the lifter quieted down, I would credit the Sea Foam. It can remove deposits, free sticking components, and allow oil to flow. It will not fill worn areas or allow oil to work in badly worn areas, other than cleaning. But cleaning is good.
It is also recommended as a cleaner to remove carbon. While it does have some success in this area, I would rather see you use Justice Brothers for carbon cleaning in the combustion chamber and intake. During incomplete combustion Sea Foam left a residue, the JB did not. Again, my own personal testing.

Hank...your Dad told you about Bardahl, huh? I bet no one in your family used Brylcreem, Dippity Do or Jade East, either! I was a teen then and remember all that stuff. The cool guys all used Jade East.

wow, Jade East. you are digging up some memories.
Hi Karate, Banlon shirts, Saratogas, suicide knobs. ya, my Dad told me all about those. oh, don't forget baby moons too. getting a craving for a Manners Big Boy and onion rings. (he told me about those too)