I remember all of those...sigh.... How about Burma Shave signs. Yea I remember seeing those too....Does it help to say I was just a little shaver?

Ken, one product you didn't mention is Marvel Mystery Oil. Surely you've tested this classic chemical. I believe it to be a strong cleaner and good for your motor. I used it to free up sticky lifters on old motors many times. Joe

Thanks Ken,

That is exactly the type of answer I was looking for. As you are well aware when you go to the local auto parts store the wall of chemicals is pretty large and intimidating to the novice.

I have always thought of these type of "fix-it" chemicals as bandages, but some like Slick 50 seem to have some logic to it if the claims are true. You think it is a good product worth adding?

I have always used cleaning agents because I figured they are pretty safe.

I have recently used Belt Dressing though and am a little concerned by your concerns. What should I do to rectify the problem now that I have created it. It is funny you say that because just yesterday my arm brushed across the alternator belt and I noticed how sticky it was. I wrote it off to being like chain wax on a motorcycle and that the stickyness was by design.

I look forward to your response.

I have said it before but this site is absolutely awesome for guys like me to be able to ask the stupid questions! Thanks for putting up with my type!

P.S. I am just a young punk so you guys are kind of missing me with the Bardahl talk. I never knew that Retro-Chemicals could be a market. Any entrepreneurs listening?

I have to believe that somewhere in a two pump backwater gas staion there sits a case of Bardahl and tubes of Brylcream for sale. don't think you'll find it on the net though.
guess we should get back to being serious and not wasting your time. Ken would you address the old "home" remedies for carbon in the combustion chamber such as trickling water or walnut shells into the carb. always wondered about these. thanks

Water and walnut shells? Is that serious? Wow, I could not imagine ever even thinking about doing either.

I was wondering what you guys think of synthetic oils VS regular oils. Specifically Mobil 1. I've been using Mobil 1 religously now for quite a few years. I had a Trans am a few years back that had a little over 200,000 miles on it (88 TA with a 350). Thing ran GREAT. Heard some knocking and decided to rebuild it. When I pulled the engine I found the knocking had nothing to do with internals. The flywheels had sheared around the bolts and was barely hanging in place by a little bit of metal and was hitting the bell housing when it was revved.
Since I already had the rebuild kit I went ahead and rebuilt it anyway, and was amazed to find that the engine had VERY little wear, a LOT less than I was expecting. Especially considering it had 200,000 miles and I am a Lead footed, kind of young, Marine!
Just a short testimonial on what I think about Mobil 1. Thoughts?

semper Fidelis

Water down the carb is an old timers method for steam cleaning carbon off combustion chambers and piston tops. You dribble it in while keeping rpms up around 1500-2000. No harm done unless you dump a bunch all at once and stall it. Joe

I never heard of using walnut shells, maybe add to oil as a way to quiet a noisy motor for the used car dealer?

|UPDATED|12/19/2003 8:04:06 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Ahh, Marvel Mystery Oil. Good stuff. We used to use it for freeing up all kinds of things. Lifters, transmission syncros, etc. It can still be used in the crankcase with no problem. It does free things up, including cleaning carbon from piston rings. It has very little effect on oil viscosity. We used to add it to the fuel to clean injectors and fuel systems. Or pour it slowly in the intake to clean the back of the valves and combustion chambers. It does have some drawbacks. If you have a cat converter and/or an oxygen sensor, don't use it in the fuel or down the intake. It is oil, and as such will damage the O2 sensor and the cat. If you use small enough quanity to do not harm, you also won't do much, and likely no, good. But if the lifters tick, go ahead and put it in the crankcase.

I have trickled water down the intake many, many times. It does wonders for cleaning carbon from the cylinders and from behind the intake valves. Unless you use too much, it won't hurt anything, and it's cheap! It's not as good as some of the cleaners on the market, but it does help. If you use way too much you can hydrolock the cylinder and do major engine damage, but that's true of any liquid.

I use Justice Brothers or GM Top Engine Cleaner. Both are excellent cleaners, and won't hurt any thing. (Unless you dump in too much fluid at once).

Walnut shell blasters were required equipment in many European car dealers in the 70's. BMW may have been the first, but don't hold me to that. The intake was removed and crushed walnut shell was used like a sandblaster to clean the deposits from the back of the intake valves. This was before some of the chemicals we have today. It's no longer needed. The walnut shell was abrasive enough to clean off the carbon, but soft enough that residue would not hurt the engine when it was restarted. It would just burn and go out the tailpipe. We laughed, but we did it, and it worked. Now leave the engine assembled and use a good cleaner.

Synthetic oil is necessary for some new engines. The bearing surfaces are smaller and the synthetic is required to maintain a oil film that will take the wear and pressure. It is better oil. BUT, in any case the major failure is contamination in the oil. Oil itself does not break down. The additives do. And we create wear through suspended debris. In our C3's the synthetic oil may not help much. The oil will be contaminated and will need to be changed before the additives breakdown. Synthetic won't stay any cleaner, it will still need to be changed. Standard, good quality oil will do fine and mantain a good oil film. If you have built up the engine this may not be the case, and the synthetic could be a better choice. I will run 10W30 Exxon Superflow in my C3. Same thing I use in my 4 cyl Celebrity and 6 cyl Caravan. But my 75 C3 is only 165 hp. (That will change a bit in the future)

As far as stupid questions go, there is not any such thing as a stupid question, except the one you don't ask.
And thought I know a lot about cars, and the fact that I worked at Chevrolet fixing C3's for years, there are many things I don't remember, or never knew, and I'll have my share of questions as well. I loved the info on the removable rear window conversion. I may do that some day. So thanks to all of you for helping me as well.

Ken Styer

Almost forgot. Slick 50 does work. Sometimes quite a lot, sometimes not much, but it does help cut friction and reduce wear, even if you don't see a mileage increase.

As for the belt dressing, use brake parts cleaner to get rid of it. Be sure to protect the paint/wax. If the pullies are okay and in align, just tighten or replace the belt.

Ken Styer

With regard to the synthetic oil, I recently had my big block rebuilt. Broke it in using 10w30 then was advised to switch to a straight 30w because of the higher running temps. I'll be changing the oil again shortly and was thinking of using the Mobil 1. Any feedback appreciated. On the nostalgic side - I thought all the cool guys wore English leather...

It's long gone now, but I used to have a genuine Bardahl pocket protector. Got it at the Bardahl booth at the local Rod & Custom show ..... in 1959. Damn, I've been spinning wrenches for a long time!

Happy Holidays, y'all!!

(Oh, yeah ... today was one of those two or three weekend days we get each New England winter when it paid to keep the plates on all year ... C3's look pretty, but they drive prettier!)