Fix it...that will definitely restrict the fuel flow.
I thought the big blocks had a straighter hose from the frame to the pump...maybe yours was changed sometime, and has the wrong one to begin with?

The pump sits about 2 inches in front of where the metal line stops, I am getting a hose long enough to loop around the front of the pump and then to the inlet. This will keep the line away from the headers and prevent the "S" hose configuration....

Well.... I installed a new hose that is in a nice loop (old and looked like a Z) then I installed a fuel pressure gage. I then started the car, the gage was bouncing between 1 and 6... it would not settle down.

When I brought up the RPMs, the gage went to bouncing between 4 and 5.5. I took the car for a spin and it still coughs and farts under hard acceleration.

Why is the pressure so erratic? is it due to the cam?

Help! 

The pressure should be constant 6-8 lbs. The cam (unless the timing is off) should not give you this problem.I noticed you still have the return line still hooked up.You seem to be going into a lean condition under acceleration. (not enough fuel. plenty air but little gas). This could be why you have such a eratic pressure, it is bleeding off. First try blocking off the return and then check your pressure. It should come up to normal. If not it might be the "new" pump or still some junk in the line somewhere. I put in a pressure regulator (mount it somewhere under the hood after the pump),use one outlet for pressure gauge to the carb,the other for the return. You can then dial in the pressure and still have the return (which takes the residual pressure off the pump by returning it to the tank), your pump will love you for it. If this dosen't help you might want to check out the pump itself. Might want to consider an electric with higher flow rate then stock. At least you will have a cool looking fuel delivery system. Ps. use braided fuel lines too. custom762007-02-11 23:04:33

The pump pressure should indeed be steady, not bouncing. Sounds like a bad pump. Blocking the return line will tell for sure if the relief valve in the pump is bad. If blocking the return does no good, the inlet check valve in the pump is bad. While you're at it, check your oil. Make sure you don't have fuel being pumped into your fresh engine!

Well, finally replaced the fuel pump and then cleaned out the carb and set the floats... runs much stronger at start, but at about 3800 rpms the engine starts to lose power and cutting out. I have a new HEI with a tach drive (wired directly to the fuse panel) new braided 8mm wires (all grounded). Do I have a timing issue? current set at 10..