Well, thats good news.

Ok got the parts today, does anyone know if I will need to pick up a gear puller to get the crank gear off, or will it just slip off. Is there any special things I should know before I try to change the timing chain to the double roller, I don't want to screw up the current timing or anything. This is my first time getting near the cam.

You do need the puller for the harmonic balancer. Sometimes you can get the crank timing gear off without a puller, but plan on it.

There are other tricks to get off a really stubborn gear. Place a large chisel between the teeth of the gear, and smack it with a hammer. Really hit it. The gear splits and falls off, or cracks and will come off. This is not the first choice, it's the last. If you can cut a notch in the gear before the chisel it works better. If you miss you can cause damage to several things. More time and work. Again, it's the last resort.

Plan on the puller.

Thanks ken,
I picked up a 5 ton reversible gear puller on the way home. I think I have everything I need now.

I have gear and harmonic balancer pullers. Chevrolet Timing gear cover with factory seal installed. New crane double roller timing set, New proform harmonic balancer, blue rtv sealant, thread lock, assembly lube....and gaskets for the timing cover. I'm going to use the method that you suggested of gently prying the oil pan away from the motor to pull the cover.

So I have one more question which may seem dumb to some people, but do I need gaskets for the water pump, or can I use the blue rtv for it?

Use the gaskets and a thin coat of sealant on each side of the gasket. Be sure all surfaces are clean.

Agreeded. Silicone works well here. A thin coat on both sides of the timing cover gasket is exactly what I use.

Sometimes silicone will cause a gasket to walk out of place. This can happen with oil pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Paper gaskets like the timing cover won't do this. If you use a brush on high tack sealer, it won't walk, but it's difficult to get back off and clean.

For oil pans and valve covers I use high tack on the side to the pan or cover. Then place the gasket, and use silicone between the gasket and engine.
The high tack keeps the gasket from walking. The silicone take up bad uneven surfaces. It releases and cleanes easily. The tough to clean high tack can be removed easily with a wire brush one the pan/cover is off the car.

No leaks, good durability, easy follow up if needed. My method for many years.

kstyer said: Sometimes silicone will cause a gasket to walk out of place. This can happen with oil pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Paper gaskets like the timing cover won't do this. If you use a brush on high tack sealer, it won't walk, but it's difficult to get back off and clean. For oil pans and valve covers I use high tack on the side to the pan or cover. Then place the gasket, and use silicone between the gasket and engine. The high tack keeps the gasket from walking. The silicone take up bad uneven surfaces. It releases and cleanes easily. The tough to clean high tack can be removed easily with a wire brush one the pan/cover is off the car.

i use a few smears of high tack on items where the gasket is likely to get moved during installation (intake manifold gaskets.. is a good example..

but on most others... i just use a very thin layer of silicone on the gasket and let it set up longer on the part im attaching.. if youve cleaned your valve covers etc and give it 10 to 15 minutes to set up then it sould maintain its shape and position without a problem..

i dont like using silicone without a gasket.. i think the silicone needs something to help it keep its shape..

in a pinch ive used silicone by itself on water pumps and such.. (roadside repairs) but 1 time out of four ill wind up having to pull it and put in a gasket to stop a leak..

the only exception to this rule.. front and rear intake gaskets.. maybe you can help me with this one Ken.. what were they thinking ???

even on these I tend to make my own cardboard gasket (out of the 12 pack box which should be nearby and handy)

my .02... might not be worth that much though.

Your right Ben, using a gasket is always better.
But there are a lot of places where just silicone is used by the mfg. Why? It's cheaper to build the car.
Most aftermarket gasket mfgs make gaskets for these when there was none from the mfg.
The ends of the intake manifold is often a rubber seal. Rarely an actual gasket. But in mfg the silicone works in new applications much better than in repair condtions. It's cheap and works at the factory. It can work well for us also if the surfaces are spotless clean. The only thing you can do this with in automotive supplies on a pratical level is brake parts cleaner. Even carb cleaner leaves a residue, that lessens the grip of the silicone, and can cause problems later. Other products may work but not as quick and easy.
As far as tacking it in place with small amounts and letting it sit, no problem.
But when you fix them for a living time is important. I don't have the luxury of a 15 minute wait when wrenching for a living. Still the job can sometimes be planned to allow set up time while some other function is being performed. I put them together quick, right but quick.
I do take my time on my Vette. If for no other reason, I just enjoy it.

Thanks guys, I set the gasket in place on the cover with hi-tack, I will use rtv silicone between the block and the gasket. Even if I can't get the gasket off the cover in the future, a new cover would be the worst case scenario. I have brake parts cleaner for the front of the pan, where I will repair the gasket with the silicone when I pry it down. I think I have my act together now. Does anyone know if I can tap the crankshaft gear on, or do I need some sort of installer. I do have a balancer puller/installer. I wonder if one of the parts included with that can install the gear.

The gear will tap into place without any thing special. But the key is a good firm solid tap, don't beat it. It best to use a wood dowel or hammer handle to tap with. If you must use metal, use brass.
Tap a few times on one side, then the other so it gets loaded evenly. All on one side, heavy blows, or metal punches may crack the new gear.