Considering my timing chain aparently broke or came off this last weekend  at 110K miles, I am a fan of the change it now while you are in there.

Here's a little trick for you guys who don't want to pull the pan when checking or changing the timing changing the timing chain, loosen the three front pan bolts on each side, with a thin scraper pry a little at the very front of the pan at the front bolt holes on both sides to get a little clearence, don't pry on the side rails, pull the usual stuff off fan, water pump, etc, make sure the keyway on the crank is at 9 or 3 o'clock, pop the dampner seal out and remover the cover bolts, with a thin scraper pry on the cover all around to break the bond on the cover gasket, work the cover in and out from the top, on the out stroke try and lift the cover up and out at the same time, it might not come out the first time, just work the cover some more till the bond on the front rubber seal loosens a bit more,sometimes it can be a bear but it will come out, the front seal sits in a troft on the bottom of the cover, grind the inside lip of the troft dwn to about 3/32-1/8', dry fit the cover to see if it will go back in without having to tilt the cover, you do not want to completly remove the rear lip, if it does then clean everything up "Super 77" the cover gasket and seal onto the cover, make sure the pan rail and bottom of the block are clean, when the "77" is dry to be safe dry fit again, it might be a little tighter because of the new front seal, if it 's OK, put a smear of silicone on the bottom of the front seal, a bead of silicone on both sides of the pan rail where it meets the front of the block where the front seal will rest, carefully slide the front cover on tighten all the bolts and let it set over night, install a new front seal, works for me.

A little more "info" on engines and sloppy timing chains.
If the engine has ever been "align bored", which is the process of machining the main bearing saddles in the block, the distance from the centerline of the crank, to the centerline of the cam bore will change. It will be smaller, meaning the crank will now be closer to the cam. This will give you fits trying to figure out why your timing chain has slop in it, even tho it is new, and both gears are new. I never recommend an align-bore/hone to anyone, except in the case of race-type engines. If you wish to use a gear drive, then it's OK, but for chain drives, it's just not worth it.

ok..it kept bothering me since i closed that cover but now i am convinced and gonna replace the chain

thankz

art-corvette

the replacement has been done.. actually it was a piece of cake , i replaced both gear too  and it is a world of difference... not sloppy anymore ( although still wondering how that chain got so sloppy since it should not have run more than 20-25000 mile and the engine seems not been "align bored" cause the new chain solved the slop)

art-corvette

 

You made the right call Now you can sleep at night with no worries