Amongst other projects, I'm currently replacing my stock intake with an Edelbrock Performer.  It's the one with EGR capability.  I got everything gooped up and got the manifold situated.  Started finger tightening all the bolts and realized there is one that appears to be impossible to start.  It's in between the choke heat riser port and the EGR attachment.   There is simply no room for the bolt to turn - even just finger tightening.  I'll post a picture tomorrow if needed.   I don't know what the correct method is - it looks like it might have worked if I had started that one bolt prior to seating the manifold (hold that side up a little bit while starting the bolt) but it's too late for that and it would have been tough to do with just me.   It may have been a mistake, but I kept going and finger tightened all the other bolts and then followed the torquing sequence but skipped that bolt (which is the first one in the sequence).  BTW, I'm using the original, stock bolts.  

It sounds like if an allen bolt will work then I would just use it for now. You will finds that you need to retorque the bolts a couple of times anyways because of the motor heating up. I retorque my intake every once in a while and always find a couple that have loosened up. My friend that works at the Chevy dealership told me that the factory uses lock-tite on the head bolts for all the new cars becuase of the issue.

Yeah...btdt...
Allen headed bolts, like the ones used for headers, are about the only way to go in that situation, but getting one long enough to actually torque down properly, AND being able to get it in the hole with the manifold already bolted up might be a problem.
 Sometimes, a little grinding on the intake is needed.(did I say that out loud?)

Yes, you should drop it in and start it as you go.  But now?  The Allen head.   If the others are torqued properly and you swag the allen head, you will be ok.

found an allen head bolt at a hardware store that works.  Got it started fine and by finger tightening I got it to seat.  Now I have no way to torque it.  A 3/8" drive allen socket definitely doesn't fit, so I tried using a key.  Long ways it just interferes with the carb mounting base and short ways there is not enough angle between the choke stove and the EGR for it to engage.  Auto parts store suggested a ball tip allen key (which they didn't have).  I'll get one at Sears tomorrow and see if that works.  I also thought about heating up a regular key and bending it slightly which I think could work.   I'll try the ball tip first.  Any other suggestions?  In any case, I'll definitely have to SWAG it like Kstyer says - no way to get a torque wrench set up for this operation.  

I agreed with using allen headed bolts, but I was thinking of regular 7/16" hex head header bolts, not the kind that actually use an allen wrench.
These are what I meant...


You might be able to cut the allen wrench down on the short end and get it in there...

I think the 7/16"  header bolt would work in that area....
The actual hex size is smaller than the flange area of the bolt, which gives you much more room to get a wrench on it.

Yep, you're right, Joel.  I bought a set of header bolts and dropped one of them in there.  Went in fine.  The bolts have a hex head with a flange (like your pic) but they also have an inset for an allen key.  And the set came with a ball tip allen key tool.  Interestingly, the ball head key still did not work for torquing - just not the right angle, it kept slipping out.  But there was just enough space to torque the bolt down with a regular old 12 point 7/16" box wrench.   Still had to SWAG it, though..... daveo762010-10-11 11:05:40

Glad ya got it taken care of!
I'm sure there are other intakes that are a pain to get that bolt in, but I certainly remember the old style Holley Strip Dominators...major snafu on those things!