Hopefully someone out there can answer these questions as I am not a Chevrolet person. I bought a used 350 short block from the salvage yard for in my 74 vette. Could have had the whole engine but didnt need anything else because I have already purchased new 67 cc chamber heads, intake, cam and many more pieces to complete this. Heres what i know about the short block. it was out of a 72 motor home. Was a 2 barrel engine. When i dropped it off at the machine shop the owner told me it had low compression pistons in it, but it is a 4 bolt main. He said it has the good steel crank. His recommendations are as follows: check block for cracks, bore the cylinders .030, grind the crank, use the connecting rods from this engine, install new cam bearings and line bore, and shave .010 off the block deck height. He assured me that all 350 blocks use the same mounting so I have no worries as to whether this will work in my vette. Hopefully the crank will line up and bolt to the flex plate for the convertor. Does the above work and information sound correct. My cam is a high energy cam not a high lift cam. He is looking to get about a 9 to 9 1/2 - 1 compression ratio. Should I order solid motor mounts while it is out and if so where do i find them. Also I am considering changing the distributor to electronic instead of points. Not looking to build a race car but just want a liitle more zip! Also what are your carb recommendations or should I post a topic of its own. This is a July / August task. Thanks for your help!

sounds correct,but I would change the rods and pistons,the old rods are not desighned to take that much compression,rd

I think it is OK to use rods from a '72, especially a steel crank engine.  Your rebuilder can check the sizes and straightness.  All the rest seems correct.  Compression of a little over 9:1 is a good bet for most street engines.  Solid motor mounts will give you a vibration and not do any good.  Use the "safety" style mounts.  Your point distributor will give you almost exactly as much power, but electronic ignition usually gives better starting and sometimes better idle.  We sell tach drive HEI distributors new, and would give you a trade in for your points distributor if it is original and rebuildable.  Flexplates are interchangeable until the mid 80's.  I would use a cam in the 265 degree advertised duration range.  I would keep the original Qjet carb and have it rebuilt.  If that is gone, we are currently recomneding the Barry Grant carbs as a good value for the money.  You need a 650 unless you are going to wind the engine over 6,000 RPM, in which case go to a 700.

Have fun
Larry

Larry, I checked the cams advertised duration and it is 256 intake and 268 exhaust. The carb on it now is the original Qjet. Having it rebuilt is not a problem. Do i need to change any jetting or metering rods while doing that. I originally wanted to stay with the stock points distributor and if you feel it is ok I will give it a try. I can always change later if needed. As for the mounts do you sell the "safety mounts"? I am not familiar with them. I am also looking for some other things so if you can shoot me a number and a good time to call you I will give you a shout. Thanks for help 

Rodney;
We sell pretty much any part for any year Corvette.  Please give us a call at 763-784-8577.  Our hours are 9:00 to 6:00 weekdays and 9:00 to 3:00 Saturday.  Be sure to ask for your forum discount. 

Safety mounts are just like the originals except they have metal tabs that keep the engine from lifting if a mount breaks.  That is a pretty mild cam which should give you great low end torque and driveability.  You will almost certainly need to re-jet your carb, but you can't tell until it is running and you put a meter on it.

We would appreciate the opportunity to earn your business.

Larry

update on the progress or lack there of!
Luckily I am in no hurry so time really doesnt matter. My block has been deck cut, bored and honed. The rods have been gone over and the crank ground on both mains and rods. Should start reassembly sometime later this week. everything is in for him to reassemble. I have purchased a pair of Hedman headers, thermal coated instead of polished, heavier gauge metal and $75 savings! Bought an aluminum oil pan with melling pump and pickup. The timing cover is also aluminum as well as the stock valve covers which I will need to polish. The summit heads I purchased I am having him go over because he has a set there now with only 100 miles that the valves didnt seat very well and the push rods rubbed on the insides of the slots. He will be adding pushrod guides on mine! The crank and rods have been balanced. I have already gone way over my budget but I dont want to go back and have to do something over again because I was to cheap to do it right the first time. It looks like i will end up with over $2500 in the engine compartment upgrade. Next year I will have to do the gearing! Larry, I will be calling for the mounts for both the engine and tranny> putting in new mounts for both was recommended by the hedman company. Has anyone after installing headers kept the chrome dist brackets and brought the wires in from the bottom like the original routing? I know I cant keep the chrome guards at the plugs but what about coming off the distributor?