Killtime, thanks for the info.  I think I'll paint it first.  is the por15 spray or brush on?

Roger, no there weren't any indications that I picked up.  happened on a local interstate going 65 with my brother driving.  he still feels bad that he had something to do with it.  of course he didn't but that doesn't matter to him.  it's funny story what happened after he pulled over to the berm but a long one.  I'll be posting pics as I go.

looking for some info on the new Vortech heads, pn 25534421. 

  http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfpartsjsp/partlist.jsp?cat=93 73&section=ep#25534421

have read about them in a couple of mags and they are getting good reviews.  is any body out there running these?  if so, what exhaust manifolds or headers do you have?  which intake manifold?

called GMPP and asked if they would work with my stock exhaust manifolds.  wouldn't say yes or no.  strange.  told me to contact one of there performance parts dealers for specific applications.  called one and was told to ask a machine shop/builder who put one on an engine and what they used.  what a run around.  they are scaring me away.  any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hank 51, Edelbrock makes an aluminum version of the vortec called e-tec heads.  You have to use an intake manifold designed for the heads, but the exhaust side should be the same as regular heads.  I am thinking of a 383 upgrade using the edelbrock e-tec power package.  It includes the heads, cam, intake and carb.  They claim 425 hp.  Good luck,

E-Tec 170 20% more exhaust flow than cast iron Vortec heads, good power up to 6000 rpm 64cc chambers produce 9.5:1 compression with stock pistons in 350-inch engines

JR

since the weather here has been nice the last couple of days, thought I'd paint some engine parts.  went to clean my harmonic damper prior to painting and saw that the rubber rings on both sides were damaged. 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2224665/1

is it time to replace it or can it be repaired?  also, there was what looked like a clump of RTV in the keyway.  read my assembly books and there is no mention of putting RTV here.

thanks for your help.

Hank, you are going to need a new balancer.  There is no way to repair one.  You can pick one up on your trip to Summit.   I got mine at AutoZone.  My old one shifted so much it was starting to brush the timing cover.  I found it the first time I went to set the timing.

thanks Ken, I was afraid of that.  anything special I should look for or ask for?

There are two different outer diameters.  If memory serves they are 8" and either 6 1/2 or 6 3/4.  Just measure the old one on you will have all the information you need. 

Almost all.   Turning the car into a 383 stroker requires a 400 CID balancer.  The 400 is externally balanced.  350s and smaller are internally balanced.  And a stroker uses the 400 crank.  If you mix these, you will have a nasty vibration you will never smooth out.  This also means you need a flywheel for a 400 as well.  Same reason.

So you needed it anyway, even if the old ones were good.

kstyer38747.8907523148

Ken, a couple of questions.

my crank is balanced.  does that change the damper I need?

is the flywheel the same as the flex plate? 

ok, 3 questions.  what's the difference between a flywheel for a 350 and a 400?

Yes they are balanced no matter which one you have.

But they are balanced differently.  The crank may be balanced for a 400, and would then need a 400 flywheel/flexplate, and a harmonic balancer.

The balancer and flexplate/flywheel must match the crank for a complete balance.  Or it will vibrate like a hyperactive paint shaker.

If in any doubt, ask the folks where you bought the crank.

A flexplate is used on an automatic, a flywheel is used with a clutch.  In conversation the term flywheel is often used, thought technically wrong for an automatic.