Topic: Engine coming out! Bad Cam Lobe!
in Forum: C3 Engines
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!
2011111017209r.jpg)
I agree with Joel on the hardening or lack of. I had the same problem with a set of 4:56 gears that weren't treated from GM. The Vette was in warranty so the dealer had to install the gearset. The car was ordered with 4:56, but somehow came thru with 3:36. After the install I picked up the car on Friday, drove to the strip on Sunday, made many runs. On the way home it sounded like a cop with his siren blaring following me. Monday drove back to the Chevy dealer. They told me the gears weren't hardened.....................(or maybe not installed right?) You will be a lot safer with a roller cam. All the best to you.............and I believe in your engine builder!
corvette440hp
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
-of-joe120111130185311r.jpg)
Standard Member
Send PM
macedon, NY - USA
Joined: 7/20/2006
Posts: 367
Vette(s): 68 COUPE 454
HAS MOTION HOOD SCOOP, REVERSED GILLS
ZL-1 FENDER FLARES AND
MOTION REAR SPOILER, LEMAN'S GAS CAP,
BUCKET HEADLIGHTS.
CAN-AM FRONT
RACING SPOILER. CHROME HOOKER HEADERS AND SIDE PIPES! 4 SPEED M20,
LOOKS FAST STANDING STILL !!
Thanks for all the encouragement!
Got the engine stripped down, headers off last night.
Tonite we pull the radiator and hood. (Could not do those by myself)
We will also pull the engine tonite!
Keep me in prayer all goes smoothly with no accidents or damage!
Joe
Good Afternoon All, As in a new engine break in procedure (now with the advent of lube oil without ZDDP in the formula) the cam manufactures are now putting in the cam order a bottle of ZDDP and a disclaimer of the effects on a flat tappet cam and lifters..There is a break in procedure for rear gears of a rear end and is stated in a break in procedure that the gear supplier and or the shop who does this type of work would have copies of the procedure.It is lengthy but insures the longevity of the gears,Please ask Vetter Bob how important it is to break in the rear gears properly..Have a great day all. Sal C
What is the break-in procedure for a new set of gears?
All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 or 20 miles it is best to let the differential cool before proceeding. I recommend at least 500 miles before towing. I also recommend towing for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and letting the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. This may seem unnecessary but I have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was broken in.
I also recommend changing the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.
All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 or 20 miles it is best to let the differential cool before proceeding. I recommend at least 500 miles before towing. I also recommend towing for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and letting the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. This may seem unnecessary but I have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was broken in.
I also recommend changing the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.
This is the format for rear end gear break in procedure as is recommended by Richmond,Eaton and several other manufactures of Gears and differentials.Sal C
Standard Member
Send PM
macedon, NY - USA
Joined: 7/20/2006
Posts: 367
Vette(s): 68 COUPE 454
HAS MOTION HOOD SCOOP, REVERSED GILLS
ZL-1 FENDER FLARES AND
MOTION REAR SPOILER, LEMAN'S GAS CAP,
BUCKET HEADLIGHTS.
CAN-AM FRONT
RACING SPOILER. CHROME HOOKER HEADERS AND SIDE PIPES! 4 SPEED M20,
LOOKS FAST STANDING STILL !!
nosal1 said: What is the break-in procedure for a new set of gears?
All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 or 20 miles it is best to let the differential cool before proceeding. I recommend at least 500 miles before towing. I also recommend towing for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and letting the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. This may seem unnecessary but I have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was broken in.
I also recommend changing the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.
All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 or 20 miles it is best to let the differential cool before proceeding. I recommend at least 500 miles before towing. I also recommend towing for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and letting the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. This may seem unnecessary but I have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was broken in.
I also recommend changing the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.
This is the format for rear end gear break in procedure as is recommended by Richmond,Eaton and several other manufactures of Gears and differentials.Sal C
What is it for lifters?
Engine Start Up Procedure Regarding
Oil/Additive Usage in Flat Tappet Cam/Lifters
With the absence of lubricating chemical (ZDDP) in the present day
Oil from the oil companies available to consumer for typical oil changes
It is highly recommended to add or use oil with the ZDDP available
In the oil you purchase. The Zinc Phosphate combination acts as a
Lubricating agent to reduce friction on the lobes and base of the lifters.
The EPA had mandated that these products (chemicals) be eliminated as it
Deteriorated the catalytic converter thereby increasing pollution.EPA
Sacrificed the metallic parts of the cam/lifters for the life of the converter.
The late model engines now have Roller Cams and Lifters and do not
Require the ZDDP albeit I would recommend using the additive or buy
Oil with zinc phosphate available in the formulation.
To help identify the oil with ZDDP in the formulation, look for the
Round badge on the oil container that signifies API Service CI-4/SI
CI-4 Plus would also be indicated.
Be aware without the use of this type of additive or oil containing ZDDP during break in of cam/lifters along with normal operation of the engine would void the warranties you may have received from builder of the engine along with/cam/lifter manufactures.
A quick break in procedure for newly built engines is : Use a quality 30W oil add 1 ZDDP(one of many new brands of zinc Phosphate) 8-9 oz. bottle(I think that is the size of the product)added to the required amount of oil for your engine,plus a good oil filter be sure to have an oil pressure gauge and temp gauge active in the car or start up stand(which I use)and be sure to have plenty of cooling fan available(new engines run warmer until broke in)and unplug the power to the distributor and rotate the engine for 5-8 SECONDS to insure you have oil to all sides and lube holes with oil,then put power to the distributor and fire the engine(be sure to have it advanced to make sure it starts.
New engines like a lot of advance timing not to exceed 14 degrees without vacuum advance connected)..DO NOT ALLOW TO IDLE AT A LOW RPM LIKE 600-1000 RPM,take the RPM up to 2400-2600 rpm for a minimum of 22 minutes or 25 minutes.allow to cool (30 minutes)then start it with a timing light and vacuum gauge connect to maximum vacuum either from the intake(the best)or the metered port on the carb to measure and set timing to the max vacuum.As you increase the vacuum you also increase the timing,however you have to keep reducing the carb idle to 750-800 while doing the vacuum adjustment.Then set you timing as you wish to run all the time..
After you have set everything to your desire then drain all fluids and change oil fiter and oil to what you will be running in the engine..
The Performance engines I run is usually set at 14 degrees static (without vac advance as I do not run vacuum advance in my distributors)with a total of 34-36 degrees..
These parameters will different for BBC and 383 strokers as I set the 383 at a static of 18 and rework the springs of the mechanical advance. I hope this helps to answer you queries and if you wish you can send a PM of any other questions..I have built so many engines and sometimes I forget somethings need to be said.. I Guess this wasn't as brief as it should have been..
Take care and have a great day... Sal C
Lifetime MemberModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Flat tappet cams should have moly lube on the cam lobes and bottoms of lifters. Once the engine is ready to be started, it should be run at at least 2500 rpms for around 15-20 minutes...some say 30 minutes. You need to make sure the cooling system is full and working, the timing and carb settings are correct enough to run without the engine dying. Hard to do, a lot of times, but that's what it requires.
Using a break-in oil with high levels of ZDDP is also a good idea...for break-in. After that, a lower level of ZDDP can be used. And, nosal is right...MOST cam manufacturers do include a bottle of break-in lube...some even include the correct moly lube for the cam/lifer install.
Using a break-in oil with high levels of ZDDP is also a good idea...for break-in. After that, a lower level of ZDDP can be used. And, nosal is right...MOST cam manufacturers do include a bottle of break-in lube...some even include the correct moly lube for the cam/lifer install.
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56 
My Link 
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
In my previous post the statement regarding connecting the vacuum gauge is supposed to read:
"UNMETERED port on carb not METERED port".
Sorry I can build engines a lot better that type... Sal C
Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
If you go with a regular hydraulic cam and lifters, follow the procedures Joel mentioned above. And be careful if you have nice coated headers. They will be glowing cherry red.
Also, make sure valves are adjusted well before breaking in.
Paul
LukesVette Homepage
Veteran of Operation Iraqi Freedom
101st Airborne(AirAssault!)
God Bless America
Support Our Troops 
Standard Member
Send PM
macedon, NY - USA
Joined: 7/20/2006
Posts: 367
Vette(s): 68 COUPE 454
HAS MOTION HOOD SCOOP, REVERSED GILLS
ZL-1 FENDER FLARES AND
MOTION REAR SPOILER, LEMAN'S GAS CAP,
BUCKET HEADLIGHTS.
CAN-AM FRONT
RACING SPOILER. CHROME HOOKER HEADERS AND SIDE PIPES! 4 SPEED M20,
LOOKS FAST STANDING STILL !!
lukesvette said: If you go with a regular hydraulic cam and lifters, follow the procedures Joel mentioned above. And be careful if you have nice coated headers. They will be glowing cherry red.
Also, make sure valves are adjusted well before breaking in.
Paul
Paul,
going with roller cam lifters.
The pipes i'm sure will still be hot !
Joe
in Forum: C3 Engines
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)