I'm sure it's the module. I had the same problem with my '79 and my '83 El Camino. Changed the modules to a Petronix and had no trouble since.

Thanks guys for good conversation on shootingtrouble under the hood. I learned somethang today

[QUOTE=jayare] Next time i'm a bad boy i'll go see if all my plugs are firing good an hot.....with me fingers.[/QUOTE]

Why wait, Rich? Go ahead..be adventurous!!!
You may never know the joys of leaning over the (metal)fender of a car, and grabbing ahold of a plug wire with a little bald spot in it...IT'S FUN!!!!

I heard of a couple utter things to check today.  One was that the carbon under the cap/rotor/ on advance weights could be from arching... bad connection somewhere. Another was that I should be using a spark resistor for high output coil units? mounts on the firewall for about $10? Has anyone heard of needing to use this unit?

Depends on the type of coil you are using. If your Mallory doesn't have the coil in the cap, like a regular HEI, you may need to have a resistor on the "+" side of the coil.
If you are in fact using an in-cap coil HEI system, then I see no need for the resistor.
The resistor is normally used on a point-type system to lower the operating voltage to the coil, while allowing a full 12v+ while starting. The 12v would come from the starter "S" terminal. Once started, the reduced voltage would come from the ignition switch itself...usually around 6-8 volts. If the coil has a full 12v all the time, it tends to melt/burn the points quickly.
The HEI systems do not need the resistor..they work from a full 12v power at all times.
There again, it depends on the system.
Carbon tracking on the inside of the cap, and on the bottom of the rotor itself, are usually indications of spark that has nowhere to go, so it wants to go to the closest ground it can find...usually the two screws that hold the rotor to the dist shaft. This is what gives you that funky build-up. Something to do with electrostatic charges. This is normally a result of plugs that are not gapped correctly, or may be the wrong heat range. It is more common to find bad plug wires causing it. The full secondary spark can't make it to the plugs, so it's gonna wanna go somewhere else.
You may want to check all of your plug wires with an ohm meter. They should all be the same, or dang close. All it takes it one bad/questionable wire/plug to create the carbon tracking.
On top of creating the carbon tracking situation, this also contributes to the overheating of the other ign. components, such as modules, and coils...

Also..as may favorite saying goes..."New don't mean diddly..."

Well I got the module this week and put her in today. Fired right up first crank, so it was a burnt ignition module. I did check my wires and they were all close in resistance. The shorter ones were 95-113 ohms and the longer ones were 151-190 ohms. So I think I am good there. I am going to run her for awhile and then check the cap for carbon tracing. If I find some, I will have to continue the hunt for the reason. FLA VETTE2008-02-24 20:24:23

Sweet! Hope that's all it was!!