Topic: Engine Cut off today
in Forum: C3 Engines



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Did it blow any black smoke out the tail when it did restart after stalling? If the float level is s little high, combining that with high underhood temps may have caused some "percolating" in the carb, which would push raw fuel into the intake, basically flooding the engine with fuel. Removing the air cleaner top may have helped cool it some, as well as allow more air into the intake.
There's nothing about a trans that would cause it to stall out, or run goofy.


What carb are you running?
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Are you using the in line filter that goes inside the carb? Bronze or paper?
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I'd go ahead and pull some plugs, and look for wet ones. Whether due to flooding, OR ign. failure, wet plugs won't fire. If you have wet plugs, dry them off and try starting. Alternatively, you could check to see if the plugs are getting fire to start with. You've already noted that the carb has plenty of fuel, so we could prolly rule out a failed fuel pump. Let's find out if we have any fire to the plugs. Of course, now that it has sit for a while, it may fire right up. If so, then we're prolly looking at a failed ign. module. Heat will take it's toll on them, no mater who made it. I've seen MANY HEI modules that would start failing with the same symptoms as you described. Runs like crap...stall then restart...stall then no start, start OK when cold.
First thing is to check the plugs. Like I said, if they are wet, it ain't gonna wanna run, regardless of the reason. Also, plugs that have been fuel-soaked are pretty much useless...once the insulators are soaked with fuel, they tend to act as grounds, killing any spark. So...if your plugs are still wet after sitting overnight, replace them. You can let the wet ones air-dry for a few weeks, and then have them as spares, for emergencies.

Joel Adams
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If you do not have a spark tester, the next best thing is a spark plug. If you have an old plug around, just plug it into one of the wires, and ground the metal part to the engine(NOT to the carb!), and crank it over. You should see a nice, blue spark jump from the center electrode to the side electrode. If the spark is yellow, or very weak, you have either a bad wire, or a failing ign, which could be the coil, or the module. The pole-piece can also cause ign problems, but they normally either work, or they don't. The pole-piece is the "trigger" part that goes around the dist. shaft, and is triggered by the "teeth" on the shaft as it spins.
So...get ya a plug from somewhere, and stick it in one of the wires on yer car. You can buy spark testers at the parts houses fairly cheap, too. Prolly under $10... It is basically the same thing as a used plug, but with a clamp to hold it to the engine, and the other end is adjustable, so you can vary the amount of gap, which is useful when determining if the coil/module is producing enough spark to jump a specific gap.

Whether you use a plug, or a tester, be sure that it is gapped correctly for your engine. .030 is a good starting point, depending on what you normally run your plug gap at.

I still say grabbing the wire is quickest...


Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
First I checked to coil and she shows good continuity, so no short. Got distributor open to check out and found allot of carbon all under the cap, rotor, all on advance weights. Pulled the ign module and she smells burnt..... so on to replacing the module. Performance parts store closed on Sunday so will have to wait till later this week. This unit is an HEI high performance distr by Mallory. Should I use the exact replacement module from Mallory or can any one be used?



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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"