DNV Dennis,

      Good Morning.Regarding your problem..If you can install,just for testing purpose, a glass fuel line filter along with a fuel pressure gauge to observe the throughput, pressure from fuel tank to carb..Also what carb do you have,i.e.Q-Jet,Holley,Edelbrock,etc. If you have a holley and it back fired through the carb,you could have blown a power valve thereby creating a miss under load..

    If you encounter this problem when you come up to operating temperature and have a GM HEI distributor,you may have a module about quit..If you have a points system your Dwell maybe low,should be between 28-32 deg.If you have an external coil use your volt meter and check ohms of the coil...What type of ignition system do you have,points dist.,GM HEI,aftermaket electronic ign.

    It is obviously difficult to diagnose a problem by mail,however with enough info I may be able to contribute,albeit it seems there are some very capable people who have responded to your plight..

    Take care and good luck,

       Sal  nosal1   

    Pacific Performance Motors

Sal;

Thanks.  It turned out to be the coil in the HEI system.  I took her out on a good long shakedown today/tonight, just got back ($53 to fill her up) and she is doing just fine.

Thanks to Joel and all for the help.  It took a while but I am getting the hang of not getting frustrated, just treating her like a jigsaw puzzle with no pictures on the pieces.

Dennis

[QUOTE=dnv]Joel;

however, I did not change the coil or module.

Dennis
[/QUOTE]

that would have been my first things with those symtpoms

the coil is cheaper..  try it first..

also autozone and oriellys both have a module tester.  they can tell you if the module is out...  but Id still try the coil

Cthulhu;

I did, in fact, use the autozone coil.  I guess I had loaded the plugs up pretty good with the misfiring.  It took about 30 miles of "fun" driving to get the cob webs out but she is going good again.

$16.99 for the coil and I'm back in business just in time for a cruise-in to see Cars at the Drive-In this weekend!!!

Thanks to all for all the help!!!

Dennis

JOEL/KEN/ANYBODY;

HELP.  We went to the drive-in cruise tonight, about 55 mi each way.  On the way up, she started cutting out again, only a little, and only under up hill load at first.  On the way home, she would cut out getting up to speed (65-70) and then if you added power for any reason, she would spit and sputter again.

Is it possible that I loaded the plugs up so bad from the last time that they are now shot (too hot to check tonight) or is it the "module" you guys were talking about?

BTW, what is the "module" and where would I locate it?

Also, the brake lights went out, though tail still works.  I'll have to check the fuses tomorrow.  We went across some rough roads.  In fact, another 77 shark started the right rear winking on the way home.

If you guys think she needs plugs (AC/Delco R45TS) please let me know.  Any recommendations for a better plug for an 80 that isn't an 80 engine?  Splitfire?  Bosch?

Any advise is appreciated as always

Dennis

I would start with the ign. module, Dennis. It is located inside the distributor, screwed to the bottom. It will have 2 plugs, one on each end.

I don't think the spark plugs will create the problem you have, but you might check all of them, just in case.

On the brake lights, do the turn sigs work? If so, the bulbs are ok. That would mean you either have a bad brake switch, or a bad power/ground connection to the lights. The fuse for brake lites also powers the hazzard flashers, and the seat-belt/key in ign. buzzer. If the hazzard flashers work, the fuse is ok.

Dennis,

      I would change module as you have already changed coil,might as well go new all the way.Then if you have a timing light check where you are at in the timing and if you can check timing then set at 8-10 degrees advanced(assume you have 350cu.in. engine)..If you have backfiring is it in carb or in the exhaust?? I also suspect a wire in either #5,6,4,depending on if you have headers,block hugger type or any type..

      You may have fuel fouled plugs as well and it will take a few days of running to get them clean and with the price of fuuuuuuel you would be better of taking them out and clean them or replace them.

       Good luck,take care andhave a great day..

Thanks guys;

I pulled the module and the wire that comes out of the distributor and goes to the cap shattered the brown stuff surrounding the wires.  I assume that Autozone will have this as well? 

I checked and don't have flashers or turn signals so it's off to the fuses.

With 107 degrees out here today, the pool looked like a better alternative than an unairconditioned barn.

Maybe tomorrow nite!

Thanks again

Dennis

The turn sigs are on a different fuse than the brake lites. Chances are, if both the t-sigs and the brake lites are not working, it is the turn sig. switch that is the problem, or possibly the connector. It may also be both of the bulbs took a vacation at the same time.
The brake lite sig. has to go thru the t-sig switch. This is what keeps the front turn sig. lites from coming on when you hit the brakes.

I doubt that AutoZone will have the wiring that you need, but it won't hurt to ask.

Joel/Ken;

I pulled the drivers side bank of plugs (one at a time) and compression checked each cyl.  I found #1 - 45lbs, #3 - 40lbs, #5 - 110lbs, #7 - 100lbs.  Leads me to believe I have either a cam going down or ring issues.

Either way, I bought a 350 motor from the wife's uncle a year or two back and put it on a stand intending to get to it one of these days.  Apparently, that day is today.

The good news, it codes out to be a 350 - 400 (GM-3970010) engine block with four bolt mains.  Casting # 333882 Heads @ 76cc for a GM 400 application. 

I'm going to have the crank and pistons miked.  The pistons are flat top with the valve groove cut in both directions.  I haven't gotten it completely apart yet. 

The story goes that the engine has less than 100 miles on it and was removed when the transmission blew up and he parted out the car.  He also says it has an Erson RV Camshaft.

A couple of questions:

1) I'm thinking it would be a good idea to replace the timing chain, rings and bearings to really zero time the engine.  I will also check or replace the oil pump, fuel pump, pan (mine on the vette has a re-brazed hole that is weeping. I'll also use the rebuilt HEI distributor out of the vette and replace the wires/plugs.  Anything else to replace/change while I'm in here?  I also intend to replace the front & rear transmission seals and the u-joints in the driveshaft.

2) If it does have a 400 crank as it is supposed to, should I change the cam or is an RV cam good enough for mainly cruising and a little autocrossing?  I intend to back it up with a 700R4 next year when I can afford it and Momma's MG is running.

Any special tips for build-up at this point?  I'm going to port & polish the heads, I was thinking of doing this myself.  Should I let the machine shop guys do this?  It'd be my first attempt. 

Also, I broke an extractor off in the aluminum intake manifold off the vette at the thermostat cover hole.  Is it a total loss or should someone be able to drill it out & retap it?

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks in advance!

Dennis