Thanks guys;

I am now on the hunt for a good machinist in my little corner of the world.  There is a shop in Choctaw that everyone says they have heard good things about however, no one has ever used them.  I think I'll go by and have a chat with him and see what his shop looks like.  He builds race engines and owns a race track east of here. 

If anyone knows of a good shop in the OKC Metro area, I'm all ears.

Dennis

I've noticed in all the replies that a basic compression test has not been advised and I don't know how much mechanical experience you have.  I know you are saying that you have two cylinders that are low and I agree with the valve and head gasket theories.  Have you squirted some oil into them and performed another test to see if it's rings or valves.  Oil will give more seal to the rings and compression should increase if the valves and head gasket are OK.  If it doesn't change, you may just have top end problems.  Then you could work the top end for less cash and then work on getting a different engine later.  At least you'll be driving until the new power plant is affordable.

Just a thought.

[QUOTE=Chips58]

I've noticed in all the replies that a basic compression test has not been advised [/QUOTE]

he said he did the test on the drivers side..

Hey Chips;

We did test the drivers side and got 45, 40, 110, 100 for 1,3,5,7 respectively. 

I found a machine shop today that is about 8 miles away and builds their own race engines.  They own one of the local short tracks and when I called, he said he would look at it, mike it and tell me what he would advise for free. 

I hope to get it to him on Fri morning.  If not, it'll have to wait until around the 28th or so.  Time is running short to get the bullet ready for Eureka Springs.

Dennis

Guys;

71 Shark pulled the valve cover off my 80 tonight (it's in his shop for a while as he has a lift and the capability to pull engines) and found that the heads are 14014416 heads that show to come off the '80 305 engine.

Two questions:
1) Would these be good heads to put on a 350?
2) Would it be a good barter to try and trade the 305 with the bad cam for the machine work on the 350?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks,

Dennis

Dennis DNV,

       These heads 416 are 64 cc heads and will produce 9.5-1 compression with flat top heads as long as they are not hurt.The OEM 305 cams from GM were notorious for flattening the lobes on #1,3,and sometimes 4and6 cylinders,hence misses etc.It was just one of those mishaps GM had for that year and engine,I know mine went that way some years ago and I built my 370 Hp LT-1 and installed it in '84....

      My suggestion as, mentioned in an earlier message to you is to use the(305) 416 heads as long as they are not wharped(not likely) or cracked between 3&5 or 4&6 cyl.(between exh.valves),then have three angle valve job on intake and exhaust valves and change from 1.84 int.valves to 1.94 and change exh. to 1.6 valves.Have the rocker studs drilled and pinned,get part # VS 739R valve springs(Corvette& Z28 LT-1 springs)and have machinist to set spring height for a maximun gross lift. of .500..I would then suggest a siamese lift cam used in the 69 Vette 327/350 hp and 69 Vette 350/350 hp which has gross lift of .447/.447 and cam lift .298/.298,depending on cam manufacture.This cam noted is from Clevite,however from Melling and other cam people.This was the stock OEM cam GM used in the aforementioned Vette in the 69..

    Yes, to the trade of 305 bottom for machine work on the 350.

    "If you build it this way they will come"

  Seriously you will have a cruiser that has low end torque,mid range HP and great top end especially if you still have the 3.07 rear end gears..

    If you do this engine and are ready to season the cam when you first start this baby,start at 8 degrees advance then after the cam is seasoned (broke in)set timing at 10 degress adv. and drive baby drive,however do not get into secondaries for 2000 miles and do all the oil changes after the start up procedure is done..The break in period is most important so you set the rings properly if you re ring the present pistons..

     I have built 50 of these engine with 305 heads in CA. and one engine has 184,000 miles and still going strong..

     I wish you the best..Have a great day...

  Sal   nosal1

 

Sal;

Thanks for the great input.  One more question if you don't mind.  Do you have a recommendation for rings and bearings?  I thought since I was in this far, I might as well re-ring and re-bearing.

Also, the pistons in the 350 are flat except for indentions for lifters both directions.  Are these considered flat-top pistons and are they ok for this application?

Thanks again,

Dennis

DNV, If you've got it out, my opinion would be to replace all bearings, hone the cylinders and replace rings.  Give the block a good clean as well, with the problems you've had, you don't know what has dropped into the sump and been pushed around the lubrication system by the oil pump.  When I got mine apart, the bearings showed signs of particle scoring.  Luckily the bearings did what they are supposed to and they took the damage rather than the crank surfaces.  A full set of bearings now is much much cheaper than a new block later.

Dennis  DNV,

     I agree with Chips 58 (previous recomondation) and Yes the pistons you have are flat top with double eye lids..

     Bearings by Federal Mogule are the best,albeit it is always a personal preferance,rings by Hastings or Seal Power,Dyna Gear or Cloves timing gear set(double row type)would be my choices..

    If there are any other questions feel free to ask..Take care and good luck...

     Sal   nosal1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks guys;

I really appreciate the input.

Dennis