DNV  Dennis,

      cthulhu is absolutely right about removing engine without Trans.You would almost have to take out the radiator crossmember frame support to do both at the same time and it is dangerous especially your year(same as mine been there)....I in and outed my engines three times,once with the radiator out and twice with the radiator in place,however would never attempt doing with tranny hanging...You will have to be on four Jack stands to out the engine as it is, and if you try doing with the tranny on the back you would have to lift at an unsafe height...It would not come out level or straight..You need the engine to come up as level as you can after you pry tranny from the block dowels after the six bolts are removed that hold tranny to the block...Also be sure to take out bolts/nuts from torque converter before seperation.I seen people try pull converter with the block and some get lucky but most lose front seal or crack the front pump case on the tranny...

     Again good luck and take care.....Sal

Guys;

Thanks.  We will pull the engine only.  My thought was that it would be much easier to stab the tranny outside the car and I need to do front & rear seals on it anyhow.  The tranny looks to be only supported at the tailpiece with a crossmember.  Do I need to block it up on a jackstand under the transmission pan prior to removal? 

Also, what's the best way to stab the auto tranny back onto the engine going back in.  Any tips?  This isn't my first pull however, it is my first vette pull and I am concerned. 

We have pulled the hood, radiator and all front components off the engine, pulled the distributor and the carb.  We have a sliding sling that bolts on the four corners of the intake manifold and will use a chain hoist on a rafter for the removal tool.  We have a lift to put her up on so someone can get underneath (probably me, they always send the fat guy to do a skinny guys work) and help with the separation and guide from below.

Again, any advice, general or specific, is welcome.

Thanks,

Dennis,

    You will need to get a piece of wood,a 2x12 or a piece that will cover most of the tranny pan and then you can set a small hyd. jack between the floor and the tranny.I generally raise the tranny(less than 1/2 in.)just enough to put a little tension,then you can get to the bolts at the top of the bellhousing,and also support the tranny until you remove the engine. After the engine is on the stand to take apart then you can go after the trans...

      When you go back with the engine you have the engine go in at a slight angle at  the rear(about 2-3 degress)and feed the engine to the trans and raise and lower the tranny to help get the dowel pins lined up and also line up the front motor mounts to push mount bolts through...

    Hope this helps you out and good luck.You will do fine and after all the aggravation and time you will be pleased..Working on Vettes is in a different world however when we get done there is the pride of accomplishment....

     Take care....Good luck,  Sal

[QUOTE=dnv]Guys;

Thanks.  We will pull the engine only.  My thought was that it would be much easier to stab the tranny outside the car and I need to do front & rear seals on it anyhow.  The tranny looks to be only supported at the tailpiece with a crossmember.  Do I need to block it up on a jackstand under the transmission pan prior to removal? 

Also, what's the best way to stab the auto tranny back onto the engine going back in.  Any tips?  This isn't my first pull however, it is my first vette pull and I am concerned. 
[/QUOTE]

i wish it were the case..  sometimes it can be a pain to get the end of the input shaft in the pilot bearing on a stick....

but nosal1's instructions for an auto are right on..

its pretty easy really.

have fun and be safe

Pulled the 350 apart today.  Looks to be stock crank, no marks on the throws that would show it being milled.  There is some carbon blow-by at the base of the bores outside where the piston skirts go down. 

I broke one piston skirt taking it out, but it looks like new pistons due to a bore job.  No marks on the block to indicate it has been punched so any recommendations?  If possible should I just go .030 over?

Cam has some rust on the tips of two lobes so it looks like a new cam as well.

Crank looks good.  Very little sheckac between the rods.  The rods look to be new and are not numbered or marked. 

I'll be looking for a machine shop on Monday.

Mama had foot surgery yesterday and is resting well.  I am off next week playing nurse and she says I can get out for a while to look for a shop.

We're going to pull the POS 305 out tomorrow so I can Cannabalize the heads for use on the 350 rebuild and see if I can barter it out.

Hope to have the new heart back in for Eureka Springs.

DNK/Dennis,

       Check the rod/main bearings if you do not have a micromiter for size,then check the bearings..If the crank had been turned,when you get  the rod bearing from the rod/rod cap it will be stamped either .001 if it was standard and someone rebuilt it or larger number if it was turned .010,same with main bearings. A good machinist/mechanic will designate each rod to cylinder by stamping each rod before taking apart.When a machinist bores an engine he will bore each cylinder to a specific piston and stamp the rod so it is the one that goes into that hole,hence we stamp the rods before we take them out of the block...Even if the machinist bores the cylinders with a .002 clearnace,the rods need to be stamped,however your machine shop is going to assemble the engine so he/they will know this. 

     If the pistons are new like, sounds like engine had been worked on before and unless they have installed standard pistons into a "ball honed" cylinder they may need to be bore...
      I would, for the sake of it all bore the cylinders all .030 to insure you have perfectly round holes..I would also encourage you to turn the crank .010/.010 if it still standard to insure you have round journals..When I buy new cranks from Eagle or any manufacture I have them turned to to 10/10 just to be sure they are round instead of egg shape,albeit I build balanced and blueprint performance engine and it is my requirement for myself and customers.It is cheap insurance and increases the life of the engine.

        Your machine shop should be able to determine what the lift is of the cam you have as this is important to set spring height unless you know it was a stock cam,so the stock valve springs would do...Also check each lobe for sharp edges and flat/worn spots on the side, base and top of each lobe...

        Take care and hope all is well with your brides surgery.....Good Luck,onward and upward...........Sal      &nbs p;  nosal1    

Well, here it is.  Thanks to 71Sharks Shop, we have the dead 305 removed. 

http://c3vr.com/member_uploads/8201_8300/8263/engine1.JPG

http://c3vr.com/member_uploads/8201_8300/8263/engine2.JPG

Wasn't sure how to upload the pic so I uploaded the link.  Hope this works.

Next week, on to finding a reputable machine shop.

[QUOTE=nosal1]993 heads would be another much better head replacement if you want a76cc head,however make sure they were made here(USA) rather than "HECHO de Mexico" as they are not as good.[/QUOTE]

Sal/Guys;

71Shark has a set of 993 heads in his shop.  They don't appear to be cracked however, that is just from visual inspection.  Where would the Mexico mark be.  We couldn't find anything that said made in USA or Mexico, only the GM mark, the numbers and the clock that shows date made.

What valves would you recommend for these heads if they are Made in USA?

No matter HOW many times I've seen an engine hangin over the top of a 'Vette, it STILL scares the pee outta me!!!

Glad to see you're making progress on yer project, Dennis! It'll be boiling the hides off the tars before ya know it!

Dennis/DNV,

         993 are good heads if you have pop up-pistons to get 9.5-9.7-1(.100 OR .125) If you can read the number on the heads starting with 39--993 and it does not say "HECHCO de Mexico" betwween valve springs either between 7 or 8 or 1-3 valves then you have American made heads.In any eevent if you have heads Made in USA your are money ahead.. 

     You can also run flat top pistons with 76cc heads and still get 250-270 hp horse power,however you will need to get intake valves at 2.02 and 1.60 exh. valves which cost more and unless you are planning to use the car on he track,it is not worth the time and money...

      By the way you have the engine toooooo high over the car..I get a little nervous when I see an engine that high over a Vette body.....Nevertheless, I  sure you have everything under control and are moving forward..Let me know if there are anything I may help with..........Sal