Topic: Engine removal
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Ok I am in the process of disconnecting things to remove my engine this weekend. I removed the 4 top transmission bolts and other things, are there other bolts that connect the transmission to the block? I see a bolt that connects the torque converter to the fly wheel ( just guessing on that one) is that one? looking at the wires at the back of engine bay Bubba has been busy on this car. I am seeing things that just don't look right. Well that's another questing down the road.
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There should be more than 4 bolts on the bell housing. Follow it all the way down - the bottoms have to be removed from underneath the car. And you're correct regarding the the TC bolts. There's 3 of them. Also remove the starter - makes life easier. And on that note - if you didn't already, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!
Before you start disconnecting everything, make sure you have the trans supported as it will drop when everything is disconnected and you start to lift the motor off the mounts. Most common and easiest way is to use a floor jack under the transmission pan with a block of wood. Jack up until the trans just starts to lift.
Make sure you have another jack handy as you don't want to pull this one out until the new motor is bolted up.
Good luck!!
Paul
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Yup...six bolts for the bellhousing/engine, and three on the converter. You'll need to turn the engine over(spin it) to get to the other two bolts. Once you have all 3 bolts out, slide the TC rearward to make sure it isn't stuck in the crankshaft.[;0]
As Paul says, you need to support the trans as you separate the engine from it.
As Paul says, you need to support the trans as you separate the engine from it.
Joel Adams
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OK good advice did not know about supporting the transmission. So far I have taken off 4 bolts on the bell housing and I did not see any others but I will look for them. How do I turn the engine for the other bolts? I already took out the starter and disconnected the flue pump. Do I have to take out the radiator? I took off the shroud.
You should be able to take the engine out with the radiator in place. JUst take it slow. Since you have the shroud off, I'd take the fan off to give some added clearence.
To turn the flywheel, remove the spark plugs so there is no compression. If you don't have a flywheel turning tool, use a lone screwdriver and engage the flywheel teeth and use the starter mounting boss to work the flywheel around to remove the TC bolts.
There should be two bolts on each side of the trans and then one on each side on top at about the 10 and 2 o'clock position. Support the trans under the pan with a block of wood and a floor jack. Unbolt the torque converter. Remove the pulleys and the water pump. Remove the carb and put paper towels in the intake. Remove the distributor and put a rag in the hole. When you disconnect any wiring, make sure you mark them since this sounds like your first engine removal. You have to remove the vacuum lines, disconnect the exhaust, support the engine with a lift and then remove the motor mount cross bolts. Take one more look around the engine and make sure there are not any wires still connected. Now you can remove the engine. Good Luck and be safe.
One thing Ray and I figured out early is to take the engine lift in from the side. The nose is too long otherwise. You may have to take a tire off and support the car on a jack stand on that side in order for the lift to line up....
If you have trouble holler, I just went through this.
If you have trouble holler, I just went through this.
Lifetime Member #73
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Actually, the center crank bolt ( Bottom middle pulley) yes.
I found I could turn mine by hand once I took the plugs all out. Wasn't too bad.
I found I could turn mine by hand once I took the plugs all out. Wasn't too bad.
Lifetime Member #73
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Be very careful using the crank snout bolt to rotate the crank. If there is too much resistance, you can strip out the crank threads and then you are screwed. I recommend buying a crank turning tool. It will bolt to your balancer using the three pulley bolt holes. You then insert a 1/4 inch extension and use a breaker bar or ratchet to turn the crank. No chance of messing up the crank. That tool also comes in handy when you are installing the distributor and reattaching the torque converter. Jim is correct, be easiest way is to come in from the side unless you have alift with a long boom. Mine will reach from the nose with about 2 inches to spare from the bumper.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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