Topic: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Game of thrones! OMG! Before Game of thrones I never watched a complete movie, I always fall asleep! It was a game of thrones marathon. My wife and I watched all weekend and every night until we watched all of them. Then we watched them a second time because things that were said in episodes one are related to something in episode three. Watching a second time you pick up on a lot of things you missed the first time. Then we watched them a third time.
Back to the leak. Like Joel said fuel pump weep hole. That is the exact location of the drip on the video. When you change fuel pump before you unbolt it from block there is a short bolt on front of block you take out and put in a longer bolt. It holds the rod in place that goes from pump to inside block. Make sure you put the short bolt back in to release rod or you will cook the motor. Check with Joel maybe he can send a pic of the bolt or explain it more detailed than I did.
Nice job on air cleaner!
Good luck!,
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Ok guys! FINALLY TRACKED THAT LEAK DOWN!!! Very excited I was able to reproduce the original conditions. Car has not been run in over a week. Fired her up, revved her for a bit and presto!
I think it's definitely water pump (or something in that immediate area).
It's not upper rad hose as I ran my finger around the lip and it's dry. In video 4 you can see upper rad joining water pump and it's dry.
Below are links to 4 videos.
Video 1: The original video I posted - https://goo.gl/photos/kt8AM8eXzpNCUpGr5
Video 2: Car ON video taken from above, passenger side - https://goo.gl/photos/KzQXKqfMxb7FFr3J6
Video 3: Car OFF video taken from above, passenger side - https://goo.gl/photos/47mR4NJLDeJBsTCv9
Video 4: Car OFF video taken from under, passenger side. You can see fluid looks ALMOST greenish, like a watery green, and it feels like the fluid in original video - https://goo.gl/photos/53VQCWQG3VaESJ1b8
Thoughts?
I think it's definitely water pump (or something in that immediate area).
It's not upper rad hose as I ran my finger around the lip and it's dry. In video 4 you can see upper rad joining water pump and it's dry.
Below are links to 4 videos.
Video 1: The original video I posted - https://goo.gl/photos/kt8AM8eXzpNCUpGr5
Video 2: Car ON video taken from above, passenger side - https://goo.gl/photos/KzQXKqfMxb7FFr3J6
Video 3: Car OFF video taken from above, passenger side - https://goo.gl/photos/47mR4NJLDeJBsTCv9
Video 4: Car OFF video taken from under, passenger side. You can see fluid looks ALMOST greenish, like a watery green, and it feels like the fluid in original video - https://goo.gl/photos/53VQCWQG3VaESJ1b8
Thoughts?
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"
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Water pump leaking. I can see green fluid on the engine....as well as it being green as it drips in the last vid. Mystery solved! 
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56 
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
So that begs the question...how hard is it for a novice to replace water pump? I've watched a few videos on the process and it doesn't seem THAT difficult. And I've priced a new pump out and they're not that expensive. However places like Eckler's have like 5 different pumps for the same year / engine type and they range from the $50 - $2-something range. Regular, high flow, aluminum, steel, etc.
I'd like to do it myself so I can paint the parts while I have them off: new pump, fan blades, maybe pulleys. Plus I have a feeling a machine shop would charge me my first born. And I'd love to get the experience!
Thanks guys!
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"
F4Gary - Any tips/tricks/pit falls to watch out for? Do I need to worry about torquing to spec? I do not have torq wrenches...but I can invest in them if need be.
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"
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Hey Jason - good to hear that you've discovered the source of the leak, fluid color was definitely the give away and leaking out water pump front bearing/seal is pretty common. No quick fix and it will only get worse so now is the time to do it before it leads to bigger engine problems.
Personally I think this is the perfect DIY project for you. It will be a great learning experience and will take your knowledge of your car to the next level. Having said that, there can also be a few pitfalls and it has the potential to open up a few cans of worms as you take things apart. The keys are to take your time, take lots of photos before you take anything apart, keep the parts sorted in the order in which you take them off because usually the reverse order is how you'll put them back together and finally take some notes. Memory is a great thing until your putting it back together the following weekend and you forgot what goes where.
Changing the WP on a small block chevy is pretty basic, getting to it on your car since you have A/C and your smog pump is still installed will be a little tricky. IMHO, no special water pump is necessary, std. flow cast iron is adequate for a base SB 350. Check with Autozone, NAPA or whoever you have for a local auto parts store. Since we've determined your car is pretty original, do not throw away or turn your old WP in for a core until you know if it's the original or not, we can help you with that once you have it off. Regarding the torque wrench, not a necessity but a good idea. Check to see if your local auto parts store has a rent or borrow program. You won't need it until you start putting things back together.
So before you even go buy a water pump, the first serious pitfall might be your radiator. In order to change the pump, you have to drain the antifreeze out of the engine and radiator. There should be a plug or petcock on the bottom corner of the radiator, usually the pass side right below the lower radiator hose. A plug is pretty simple, counter clockwise to unscrew and drain. A petcock has a t-shaped fitting that turns clockwise or inward to drain the fluid through the center hole, usually the petcock fitting stays in place to drain. Be very careful with either of these fittings. Plugs and petcocks get very corroded and sticky with time and the end tanks of the radiator are very thin metal. Twisting the plug or petcock fitting out of the radiator will be a nightmare. Usually it means your radiator must come out to be repaired or installing a new one. That will make changing the WP look like a day a the beach !!
The alternative to drain the radiator is cutting or removing the lower radiator hose. A bit messy and very tight quarters to work in but it can be done. If your plug or petcock does not break free easily, stop and consider this method.
Once the system is drained, disconnect the battery and remove all of the belts, you should have four. Alternator, power steering, smog pump and A/C. All of these accessories have nuts or bolts to loosen, generally one to maintain tension and one to pivot on. Take pictures and notes of belt placement and what you loosened where.
With the belts off, pivot the alternator, A/C compressor and PS pump out of the way as best you can, no need to remove any of these.
The smog pump on the other hand needs to come off. I'm sure there are professional mechanics out there who do not, but I prefer to have a little bit more room to work. Remove the SP tension bracket, there will be one small bolt on the pump and another nut that holds it to a stud on the top LH WP bolt. The stud on that top WP bolt should hold both the smog pump and alternator tension brackets. Note the order of each bracket and any washers/spacers that might be there. That order controls how the brackets align with their accessories. You can also remove the alternator tension bracket at this time. Moving back to the smog pump, disconnect the small and large hoses you worked with on your previous vacuum hose project, pictures and note again of what goes where. Once the hoses are off the only thing holding it should be the pivot nut/bolt on the bottom.
With the smog pump out of the way you'll have good access to the fan, pulleys and WP. Since this is about half way to the actual removal of the pump, I'll take a break and let you review and contemplate the project with the info given above. Certainly the biggest obstacle to consider is the radiator, don't want to scare you off but many people have had very bad experiences with C3 radiators. Check out the petcock/drain plug and see if that's going to be the tipping point on doing this yourself. If it drains with no problem your ready to roll, if not, consider the lower radiator hose option or maybe a local shop for the repair. Do't take it to any old repair shop, do some research and find someone with some C3 experience. Hopefully we can walk you through this !!
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member
Duct tape is the new Black !!
VMan73 - I can't begin to thank you for the detailed response. It is a great feeling to have a "life line!" As you know, I am a beginner. To have experienced guys willing to give a newbie a hand instead of a *tisk* *tisk* and a shake of the head, is more appreciated than you know. Red Velvet means a lot to me. One day it will be my son's. Getting it right, and more importantly safe, is a priority. Again, thank you, guys, for all of your support!!
I will do as you suggested and take detailed notes/pics. That's exactly what happened with my carb and hoses. Thought I had it in memory, a week+ went by, realized my memory was not so good.
The good news is I flushed the radiator and installed a new lower rad hose last November. The petcock manipulated easily! From what I can tell, the radiator is really clean and in great shape. Thankfully I will not have to remove lower rad hose. I think I'd rather give up an arm then go through the ordeal of replacing that hose again! :)
I think my biggest reluctance is those belts and pulleys. Guess I just have to get in there and do it and hope for the best!
I'm curious why trading in the core if it's an original could be an issue? Is it because it could be an original part and worth money?
As a side note: filled up power steering fluid this weekend. Overflowed it. Last time I was in New Orleans my wife and I got these jello shots in huge plastic syringes. Something told me to hang onto one of them. The syringe fit perfectly under the alternator and into the power steering reservoir, which, as you know, is a really hard area to get into. Sucked out the extra fluid. Goes to show you never know what will come in handy when working on these cars!
Again, thank you very much!
Jason
|UPDATED|8/30/2015 10:12:59 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
I will do as you suggested and take detailed notes/pics. That's exactly what happened with my carb and hoses. Thought I had it in memory, a week+ went by, realized my memory was not so good.
The good news is I flushed the radiator and installed a new lower rad hose last November. The petcock manipulated easily! From what I can tell, the radiator is really clean and in great shape. Thankfully I will not have to remove lower rad hose. I think I'd rather give up an arm then go through the ordeal of replacing that hose again! :)
I think my biggest reluctance is those belts and pulleys. Guess I just have to get in there and do it and hope for the best!
I'm curious why trading in the core if it's an original could be an issue? Is it because it could be an original part and worth money?
As a side note: filled up power steering fluid this weekend. Overflowed it. Last time I was in New Orleans my wife and I got these jello shots in huge plastic syringes. Something told me to hang onto one of them. The syringe fit perfectly under the alternator and into the power steering reservoir, which, as you know, is a really hard area to get into. Sucked out the extra fluid. Goes to show you never know what will come in handy when working on these cars!
Again, thank you very much!
Jason
|UPDATED|8/30/2015 10:12:59 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"
Update: Draining coolant now. Will let it drain overnight. Petcock opened easily! :) 
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"
F4gary ?? You are da man, LOL !! No biggie, glad to hear your radiator is all good and good to know you've got some experience with it and the lower hose. Continue on per my original post and I'll write up Phase II tomorrow morning. Regarding the WP core, if it's the original, like many of the other parts of the car it can be rebuilt and reinstalled somewhere down the line or have value to the next owner if they want to restore the vehicle. Like the engine block, the WP housing has a casting number and a date code that are particular to your car. Easy to save the original now rather than searching for one later. Just had my original rebuilt and reinstalled. Look for Phase II tomorrow.
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member
Duct tape is the new Black !!
in Forum: C3 Engines
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