I'm offering to pay a 1 year gold membership to the first member that can accurately diagnose a problem that I had with my engine. I probably had 20 guys in our car club tell me what they thought it might be but not a single one of them were right. Rather than bore you guys with a long story, i'll simply give you the symptoms.

1. What appeared to be oil blown all over the back of the car.

2. Inside of driver's side exhaust wet with what appeared to be oil.

3. A real loss of power at full throttle.

4. Plug on #7 cylinder fouled completely out.

5. Couldn't really tell any difference in the idling of the car with the #7 plug wire pulled completely off.

6. Still had great oil pressure.

I hope you guys realize that i'm certainly not mechanically inclined but i'll answer any question that i'm capable of answering. Since Joel and Ken are already lifetime members, they are disqualified.

Good Luck

 

This thing is rigged!!!


"Real loss of power at full throttle"...hmmmm
Sounds like a floppy piston.
If the plug is fouled, oil in the pipe, loss of power(oil pressure has no real bearing on the problem), you obviously have a cylinder that is not sealing.
Has anyone done a compression test, if so, what were the results?
Has there been a "leak-down" test? Results?
Any engine work done before the problem started?

I have seen occasions where the intake valve was not opening, and the resulting vaccuum in the cylinder would suck oil into the cylinder from the bottom of the piston, but that's a longshot.

My money($.02) would be on a bad piston/ring/cylinder.

Joel,

what do you mean rigged?

The car has been fixed by a local engine builder. I did not do a compression check before I took the car to him. As for previous engine work, the engine  has less than 2000 miles on it but I didn't have a warranty from American Speed because of the NOS.

I KNOW what the problem was now. Just wanted to see if any of you guys could guess what it was.

my guess is stuck oil ring on #7

 

 

i guess a broken valve rocker and/or the nut out of place , sealing ring broken and vibrated up till there was no more pushing the valve .Had it with mine  

Put that car in a crate Jim and sent it to Belgium.I pay the transport costs. I sent you mine in return, he's fixed. 

Let's see if I understand this. You state that can't tell any differance if the #7 plug wire is pulled off. You have nitrous on it, #7 is oil soaked at the plug and the driver's side pipe has oil in it. Now # 7 fires right after #5 and has long been a problem that caused more heat in that pair of cylinders. The first question is what hp level of nitrous have you been running, 2nd, what is your timing set at? Third, do you enrich the fuel when the nitrous is applied? Do you have a retard that kicks in when the nitrous is on? Did it make any valve train noise or other deeper noise? Giggle gas can reak havoc with a piston if it's not controled properly. Post a reply if you can. Oh yeah, another thing, a lot of engine builders open the ring gap up some when nitrous is a player, was the engine built with it in mind?

Dave

Pumps38904.9311226852

Dave,

Maybe I can answer your questions but to be quite honest, I probably couldn't if this info wasn't posted on a tag under the hood.

The timing is set 36 degrees advance, no vacuumm MSD system. NOS cheater system, 200hp shot, retard 4 degrees, ON @ 2300 RPM, OFF @ 6000 RPM.

There was no unusual  valve train noise that could be detected over the solid lifters.

The engine was built by American Speed and they were aware that NOS system would be added, hence no warranty.

Here's the internal components just in case.  Comp cams hyd. roller cam, 195 CNC ported AFR aluminum cyl. heads, Edelbrock RPM intake manifold, 4130 steel crankshaft, forged pistons, 6.0" Eagle steel rods, 9.6 comp.

Hope this helps.

the best question so far was from joel was a compression test done and what were the results thats where i would start after checking my firing order 

 Well, let's see. I've broken rings in engines before, and never had an exhaust system full of oil, but I guess it's possible. It looked more like a mosquito abatement sprayin. Kinda like when ya see a nitro motor blow smoke at the end of a pass from the zoomies. That's the extreme end of it. So, if I was to take a shot, I'd say a piston failure of major proportions, OR, now this is a long shot, but the rear cylinder head oil return is a kissin cousin of #7, soooo...a head gasket failure due to nitrous or defective gasket could create a passage for the oil to be ingested by good ole #7. A valve guide problem on an AFR head, like the guide pullin loose? Real doubtful. But if ya think about it, that's where most of the oil goes in the head to get back to the pan. This is a head scratcher.

Dave,

Just wanna make one thing clear. I HAVE NEVER HIT THE NITROUS. It's just there in case you I need it but so far haven't needed it.

Norbert, Thanks for the offer. I would probably have taken you up on it before I found out what happened to the engine.