The block may not be cracked, but the rest of your assesment is probably accurate.  The crank may be okay as well, they are very tough.  But the only way to know is tear it down, and the complete rebuild will be expensive.   I would do that, but I have no labor cost.  A good crate engine may be a good way to go, unless you want to custom build the engine for special purposes.

Thanks Ken.

My dad has an engine lift, so I'm getting that next week so I can pull the engine out, then I'll see what the bottom end looks like. If the block is ok, I know a guy locally that wanted to buy the engine before if I replaced it, so I'm sure he'll take it now.

I've almost decided on a course of action. Pull out the engine and tranny. Get the tranny worked over (bad 4th synchro, who know waht else), replace U-joints since I'll have the driveshaft off. Replace all the hoses in the engine bay, clean and paint engine bay, flush the radiator, put in crate engine. I'm also going to change the fluid in the differential, but nothing else as long as it looks ok. Anything else in the engine bay I should plan on doing, or is a heck of a lot easier while the engine is out? I'm looking to keep the cost down - stop laughing now - but want to do the things that will make my life easier later on.

New picture - this is the cylinder beside the one with the thrown valve (picture of #8) - http://www.C3VR.com/member_uploads/4601_4700/4691/cylinder_w all_crack.JPG

Asking the experts here - is the block toast? I've already decided I'm not going to rebuild, but I don't want to sell something to someone else that is likely a piece of .

John, I personally would not mess with that block. 400 blocks are too easy to come by. It just doesn't seem worth the trouble. If someone else wants to buy it, as is, as long as they understand it needs to be sleeved, (and who knows what else) it would be up to them.

Sounds like a crate engine is the way to go.  You guys are lucky stateside.  Over here in Oz, most get rebuilt even when lotsa damage has been done.  Just way too expensive for crate engines. 

Getting your gearbox done while it's out is always a good way to go.  Don't forget to replace your clutch, even if it looks ok.  Clutches are cheap and it's better to put a new one in while everything's apart rather than finding the new HP screws it as soon as you spin the wheels for the first time with the new engine.

Put a new one in the wife's MGB when I put it all back together and it's a totally different car to drive.  I think the next rebuild on the MGB will be dropping a V8 in it.  (I'd like to put a chev in but they don't fit so an aluminium (correct spelling) Rover 3.8 litre drops in nicely with a few mods for the exhausts and to the front springs)

Hope the new engine doesn't take too long to sort out.  It's a PITA not to be able to drive the vette. Mine's been out of action now close on 11 months.

I hafta agree with Ron! That SUUCCKKSS!! Only thing I can think of worse would have been to have someone crash into it and get hurt in the process.
I still think ya should get some sort of reward for bein so calm through this. Good luck with yer crate engine decision. I hope the vette GODS begin ta smile on ya soon. Please continue to show us pics as ya go. I don't know much about puttin in a crate engine. I know that they are supposed ta bolt in like the old one came out. Trouble is I find that few things in life are that easy. My guess is there are some Indian tricks that I can learn along the way.

[QUOTE=jgoglick]

Yup, it will be better than before. I'm looking at crate engine options. Seriously looked at the ZZ383, but not sure I want to spend that much. Has anyone used http://www.enginefactory.com/ ?

I looked at the cylinder wall, doesn't appear to be any damage. It looks like when the valve dropped, the valve stem went straight down, and was then pressed up into the compustion chamber, which caused the hole in the chamber, and serious gashes on the piston. I'm betting at best the rod is bent and the crank is damaged. At worst, and very likely, the block is cracked. I'm not going to rebuild it.

[/QUOTE]

 

i think youll get more for your money from those guys. looks like they have some nice stuff!

[QUOTE=Chips58]

Sounds like a crate engine is the way to go.  You guys are lucky stateside.  Over here in Oz, most get rebuilt even when lotsa damage has been done.  Just way too expensive for crate engines. 

Getting your gearbox done while it's out is always a good way to go.  Don't forget to replace your clutch, even if it looks ok.  Clutches are cheap and it's better to put a new one in while everything's apart rather than finding the new HP screws it as soon as you spin the wheels for the first time with the new engine.

Put a new one in the wife's MGB when I put it all back together and it's a totally different car to drive.  I think the next rebuild on the MGB will be dropping a V8 in it.  (I'd like to put a chev in but they don't fit so an aluminium (correct spelling) Rover 3.8 litre drops in nicely with a few mods for the exhausts and to the front springs)

Hope the new engine doesn't take too long to sort out.  It's a PITA not to be able to drive the vette. Mine's been out of action now close on 11 months.

[/QUOTE] i thought you guys down in Oz had lots of 350 small blocks floatin' around down there!

We have plenty of home grown ones but not many early Chev blocks these days.  The home grown versions (for Holdens) were either cast in Australia or from Canada.  Different casting numbers and mounts etc are slightly different.  They only have subtle differences but just enough not to look right in a Vette.

That block could be repaired by installing a sleeve, but it's probably not worth it.  A good used block would be better.