Topic: Good set up for my vette
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
Alex, if you are doing some upper end work and going with a new performance carb, I would absolutely make the investment in an aluminum manifold. An Edelbrock performer or performer RPM manifold would do nicely and I do agree with a 650 CFM carb on a slightly "warmed up" 350. You don't need anything bigger than that.
I have seen used performers on Ebay for $60 if you're willing to take a chance with a reputable seller, but again, definitely worth the investment. It is more of a performance design, and will keep the carb and juices cooler than a cast iron manifold.
I have been playing with small block combos for years and Edelbrock makes great manifolds. I have a Performer PM Air Gar on my car now - simply awesome!!
As for the distributor, if your HEI is in good shape, it'l do fine. Check the cap and rotor and make sure you use good quality wires. 
Good Luck!!
Paul
|UPDATED|10/13/2012 4:45:00 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
LukesVette Homepage
Veteran of Operation Iraqi Freedom
101st Airborne(AirAssault!)
God Bless America
Support Our Troops
lukesvette said:
Alex, if you are doing some upper end work and going with a new performance carb, I would absolutely make the investment in an aluminum manifold. An Edelbrock performer or performer RPM manifold would do nicely and I do agree with a 650 CFM carb on a slightly "warmed up" 350. You don't need anything bigger than that.
I have seen used performers on Ebay for $60 if you're willing to take a chance with a reputable seller, but again, definitely worth the investment. It is more of a performance design, and will keep the carb and juices cooler than a cast iron manifold.
I have been playing with small block combos for years and Edelbrock makes great manifolds. I have a Performer PM Air Gar on my car now - simply awesome!!
As for the distributor, if your HEI is in good shape, it'l do fine. Check the cap and rotor and make sure you use good quality wires.
Good Luck!!
Paul
I agree, 650 CFM is all you need. The previous owner put the 750 CFM on mine. I've been looking at changing to an Edelbrock 650 AVS Thunder carb rather than the performer series. The Performer RPM will fit under the hood with a 14X3 filter. The stock air cleaner won't fit.
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Build Date: May 7, 1975. 383 w/267 RWHP/310 RWTQ
Hot Rod Magazine has a great artical on buiding small block chevy's, see the link below.
Good Luck
Hi this really helpful. I am glad i joined the club and really learning all about the vette. From the get go, i was looking for ford classic mustangs...but vette is more fun to talk about. And I hardly see classic vette around where I am at.
With the set up I am thinking, do I need to do anying on the heads?
Regarding the bottom block, when do you know when to change it, or re-built it?
Thanks everyone.
Desert StormDesert Shield Veteran
Semper Fi
Vetto1974 said: Hi this really helpful. I am glad i joined the club and really learning all about the vette. From the get go, i was looking for ford classic mustangs...but vette is more fun to talk about. And I hardly see classic vette around where I am at. With the set up I am thinking, do I need to do anying on the heads? Regarding the bottom block, when do you know when to change it, or re-built it? Thanks everyone.
I found this site to be a good read...
Build Date: May 7, 1975. 383 w/267 RWHP/310 RWTQ
Here's what I did with mine:
- rebuilt original block with .030 overbore, new pistons, original rods reworked, new Eagle crank, 9.4:1 compression ratio. Had machine work done by a local shop and he purchased all parts for me. But I put it all together. (would not have cost a lot more to have machinist do the assembly, I just wanted to do it myself)
- Bought used Vortec heads (they were used on '96 and later 350 powered GM trucks). Best production heads GM ever made for vehicles with a 350. Had those reworked by the same machinist.
- Speed pro cam (if I were recommending, I'd say go with comp, I did Speed-pro since my machinist could get them for a good price). Roller rockers, new pushrods (but old would have worked).
- GMPP aluminum intake. There are not many intakes available that fit the Vortec heads and also fit under the stock hood of a Corvette. I think there is an Edelbrock that would have worked as well.
- Original cast iron "rams horn" exhaust manifolds. I did a little bit of porting on them myself. Not a bad option if you want originality, simplicity, low cost, and less heat under the hood. There are many on this site that say headers are a must, but I like my torquey new motor and feel that headers provide the most gains at higher RPM, where I do little of my driving.
- Original style Quadrajet carb. Q-jets are good for our cars when they're street driven. They have small primaries and huge secondaries so they CAN get good fuel economy, if driven judiciously 
. You need to get a good book and a good rebuild kit from a reputable company to get them set up correctly. I'd recommend Cliff's High Performance for both.
. You need to get a good book and a good rebuild kit from a reputable company to get them set up correctly. I'd recommend Cliff's High Performance for both. - I already had true dual 2 1/2" exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers. I had made this mod a few years before doing my engine and I'm not sure I'd recommend it by itself. It probably gave me some gains in HP at the higher end, but I feel like I actually noticed a torque loss at the lower end. Not sure a giant exhaust system is what a stock L-48 needs. Made it sound better, though!
So would I recommend the approach I took? Maybe. Depends on how into things like this someone is. There were a lot of evenings spent out in the garage and a lot of $$ spent on a lot of things. (Example: tools. Lots of tools that I had to buy to finish this project). Not sure I saved money over buying a crate motor, but I'm pretty happy with the result. I've got a fairly high-po original motor, that runs well and sounds and looks cool.
Good luck!
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
By reading your post it inspire me more to work on my car. But sad to say, I am not quite a handy man. Just cutting the grass sometimes cut myself..I cannot imagine myself doing the work especially the engine. I know it is the best part of owning a car if you will work on it your self. I will work on the interior though.
I have contacted a machinist in my area and asking them if they can work on overhauling my engine from bottom to top. I am trying to compare it is worth the money if I buy it pieces by pieces rather than a reputable working on the whole thing engine.
For now, because of $$$ contraint, I am looking at changing my carb, intake, cam, lifters, rockers, putting a gear drive, msd box, and headers (full lenght or side pipes). Some one suggested to change the heads too, but will see. I know changing the heads for $700 is worth the money.
I think with these minor upgardes I will get extra horses and the car will run better than it is now.
After the upgrade, If I am not happy with it, I am thinking putting a B&M torque converter, 2400 rpm stall and a good shift kits, and changing my flexpalte.
If I am still happy,then upgrade my rear-end.
I am building the engine this way for me and my wife to enjoy it. Is not 300-600 Hp but good enough to cruise and look good..
But,thank you to all, very good suggestions, i am gathering these information
|UPDATED|10/15/2012 12:38:10 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|10/15/2012 12:38:10 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Desert StormDesert Shield Veteran
Semper Fi
MSD box/ignition will do no good if you still have the original distributor/ignition system. '74s still had point type ignitions.
Be careful with the cam selection, if you decide to go with a new cam. If you get too aggressive with the duration, you'll have an engine that sounds cool, but won't run for doo-doo. Stay with a short duration cam(below 280 degree), with a higher lift. A little more carb, a good intake, and headers, along with a proper cam will wake the engine up.
Be careful with the cam selection, if you decide to go with a new cam. If you get too aggressive with the duration, you'll have an engine that sounds cool, but won't run for doo-doo. Stay with a short duration cam(below 280 degree), with a higher lift. A little more carb, a good intake, and headers, along with a proper cam will wake the engine up.
Every day I learn I know less than I thought I did.
Every time something is made idiot proof. The world produces a better idiot!
Hi,
Thank you for additional information.
I am going to put in: COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits. Intake duration: 262, Exhaust duration 270.
I am also getting the following:
msd distributor assembly: MSD Street Fire HEI Distributors
msd ignition coil: MSD Blaster 3 Ignition Coils
Caps and sparks plugs and wires.
Desert StormDesert Shield Veteran
Semper Fi
in Forum: C3 Engines
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