Hi Fella's I need some expert advice I'm rebuilding my smallbock and id like to know if i fit head studs will i still be able to take the heads off if need be .I dont want to have to pull the engine if i have problems later!! My heater box is custom (bout the same size as original in the same position) made for righthand drive Us Ozzies drive on the wrong side of the road. Any help would be appreciated!!Cheers Mick from down under!!

I don't see why head studs would not work. Studs should only be threaded in by hand. Once the heads are on and the engine is in the engine bay you will only need to lift the heads far enough to clear the studs. If you don't have the distance, then I wouldn't see why you could just double nut the stud and remove the studs and then take the heads off. You will just want to remember to clean the threads in the block again, the studs and then apply new RTV to the studs before reinstalling them. I would take some measurements.

I'll give you my take, I was kicking around putting studs on my engine also, well I asked a few people, most of them very experienced engine people, they asked me WHY? am I using studs?.........Studs are meant for racing engines to be torn down quickly and then put back together repetative times, so the threads in the block do NOT get stripped or tore out. None the less I bought a decent set of head bolts and thats what I say.......
They also said they DO NOT increase block, head or any other strengthing properties.

Dave
Mr69vett

Everything that I have read say studs are stronger. I read an article in precision engine magazine, and I have saved it for reference regarding engine fasteners. The science between studs and bolts are different.

The primary difference is when torquing a stud to spec, not only are you twisting the bolt but your alos stretching the threads.

With a stud since the bulk of the faster in stationary in the block and your only twisting the nut to get torque the threads are getting stretched evenly on both ends and there is minimal abount of twisting on actual stud itself. They also stated the actual torque that you are applying is more true then with a stud, because of the lack of twist on the fastener.

Makes sense to me and ARP was the company supplying the information. I hope this helps. I'm going to use studs in my next engine build even if they do cost a little more.

THANKS heaps for those of you who replied to my ? its always good to get some advice from those in the know Keep on waving Hopefully i'll have the old girl up and runnig soon ! Then i'll send in a picture to check out !Cheers Mick from Down under