Topic: How can I get Cheap Horsepower!
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Equinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2465
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.


COPPERAS COVE, TX - USA
Joined: 7/6/2002
Posts: 417
Vette(s): 1972 corvette stingray convertible
2007 coupe
Fuel injection will wake that motor up, we insalled the edelbrock fuel injection on a 383 in a 80 vette and that car was a screamer, lots of low end torque and great throtle response. not to mention it looks cool.

COPPERAS COVE, TX - USA
Joined: 7/6/2002
Posts: 417
Vette(s): 1972 corvette stingray convertible
2007 coupe
The 383 is a pretty basic 350, you are right on about the crank. Longer stroke means more fuel air to compress and bumps up the HP & TQ. you do have to do some work to the block,little notch so the mains clear the block. This is a very simple version, maybe one of the other gearheads better than me will do better in explaining.
[QUOTE=manchestershark]
Can/will someone explain a 383 stroker? What is it comprised of? All I can think of is maybe a stock bore, and a crank from a small RAT block. I know the stock car guys from this area make a 301 from a 283 with a 327 crank. Am I even close?[/QUOTE]

THAT`S PRETTY MUCH RIGHT AS FAR AS THE DISPLACEMENTMENT. MINE IS .030 OVER WITH A 400 CRANK. OBVIOUSLY YOU NEED TO BEEF THINGS UP A BIT. I`VE ASKED NOSAL1 TO COMMENT AS HE BUILT MINE.
Matt,
I might be able to answer some of your questions regarding a 383..As in the days of old, the 327 block was used with a 283 steel crank to make a 301.45 cc in '67 to make the engine that beat all engines in the Can Am races, where the cubic inch was restricted to 302 cc for the race,hence came the Camaro Z28 with all it's glory and under stated HP..Stated HP was 290hp when in fact it was closer to 390 hp..
The 383 goes the other was by using a 350(stroke 3.47 ) block with a 400 crank or an aftermarket crank with the main journals already for a 350 main caps.If you use a 400 crank you have to have the main cap journals turned down to a 350 main spec's,which is an additional cost,however you increase the stroke thereby increasing the HP,with additional goodies,i.e. 64 cc heads or less 2.02 intake valves if you are going to use dual carbs 1.94in. valves are great for the street and then be sure to use 1.6 or 1.65 exhaust valves as you want to expel the exhaust fast and effectively. Also in the assembly of the engine you have to assemble one of the pistons(no rings on the piston)with the crank in place,torqued(piston and crank) and rotate the engine until the rod cap and nut clear the block.Usually the last two cylinders are the ones that touch,however I do all of the cylinders to be sure they all clear,and after you grind down the portion of the block that the rod touches and have checked all the holes and you are satisfied you have clearance,then you dismantle and have or clean the block with a highly surface active surfactant (Simple Green detergent) to be absouletley sure you have all metal fines out of the block..Unfortunately all this has to be checked after the machine shop has done the boring, unless your machine shop is going to set this up themselves.I build these and all types of engines and do the setting up a 383 myself.
There is a special cam that does a great job,however if interested in this application we could talk more later..
Heads are important..We were very fortunate with VETTER BOB '69 Vette engine as it has original 186 heads(last three digits) and they are the finest breathing heads ever made,they are so great the aftermarket copied their flowing profile and that is what most of the aluminum heads are patterned after....
I have bent your ear and calloused my fingers typing,however thought I say in closing the 383 Storker engine is by no means a cheap engine to build however, coupled with a good to great tranny( beefed up 350 or 400 tranny )and a 3:42 or 3:55( you probably have a 2:73 or 3:07 ) gears limited slip rear end you will get the ride of your life.Your Vette will try and get away from you when you jump on the throttle..
As in all things automotive one thing leads to another,so be ready for an expensive but rewarding engine,tarnny,rear end grocery getting Vette.
If I can be any assistance or answer any questions,please do not hesitate to ask...
Sal nosal1
I might be able to answer some of your questions regarding a 383..As in the days of old, the 327 block was used with a 283 steel crank to make a 301.45 cc in '67 to make the engine that beat all engines in the Can Am races, where the cubic inch was restricted to 302 cc for the race,hence came the Camaro Z28 with all it's glory and under stated HP..Stated HP was 290hp when in fact it was closer to 390 hp..
The 383 goes the other was by using a 350(stroke 3.47 ) block with a 400 crank or an aftermarket crank with the main journals already for a 350 main caps.If you use a 400 crank you have to have the main cap journals turned down to a 350 main spec's,which is an additional cost,however you increase the stroke thereby increasing the HP,with additional goodies,i.e. 64 cc heads or less 2.02 intake valves if you are going to use dual carbs 1.94in. valves are great for the street and then be sure to use 1.6 or 1.65 exhaust valves as you want to expel the exhaust fast and effectively. Also in the assembly of the engine you have to assemble one of the pistons(no rings on the piston)with the crank in place,torqued(piston and crank) and rotate the engine until the rod cap and nut clear the block.Usually the last two cylinders are the ones that touch,however I do all of the cylinders to be sure they all clear,and after you grind down the portion of the block that the rod touches and have checked all the holes and you are satisfied you have clearance,then you dismantle and have or clean the block with a highly surface active surfactant (Simple Green detergent) to be absouletley sure you have all metal fines out of the block..Unfortunately all this has to be checked after the machine shop has done the boring, unless your machine shop is going to set this up themselves.I build these and all types of engines and do the setting up a 383 myself.
There is a special cam that does a great job,however if interested in this application we could talk more later..
Heads are important..We were very fortunate with VETTER BOB '69 Vette engine as it has original 186 heads(last three digits) and they are the finest breathing heads ever made,they are so great the aftermarket copied their flowing profile and that is what most of the aluminum heads are patterned after....
I have bent your ear and calloused my fingers typing,however thought I say in closing the 383 Storker engine is by no means a cheap engine to build however, coupled with a good to great tranny( beefed up 350 or 400 tranny )and a 3:42 or 3:55( you probably have a 2:73 or 3:07 ) gears limited slip rear end you will get the ride of your life.Your Vette will try and get away from you when you jump on the throttle..
As in all things automotive one thing leads to another,so be ready for an expensive but rewarding engine,tarnny,rear end grocery getting Vette.
If I can be any assistance or answer any questions,please do not hesitate to ask...
Sal nosal1

Equinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2465
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.



fowler 12,
In my (limited) experience I'd say that the Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold and a decent Q-Jet are the way to go.
They won't break the bank and seem to provide a noticeable improvement.
Good luck with it and let us know what you go with.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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