Okay - while we are talking about timing.  My engine builder (he builds drag cars)  put three marks on my harmonic balancer for timing.  He marked the line that is used to set timing and then a ways down is a mark that says 30 and further down is a mark that says 40.  What do those mean. The car runs fine but as I read this thread it sounds as though some fine tuning could be done for better performance.  Any help or ideas?

Some builders will mark the balancer to make it easier to set the timing at certain rpms. Most pro racers have the balancer marked all the way around to help with "degree-ing" the cam. Matter of fact, most pro type balancers are marked that way to start with.(Fluidamper, etc.)
For instance, if you wanted 30deg. advance @ 3000rpm, then you would simply set the engine rpm to 3000, and look at the timing mark(30deg), and set that mark(30deg) on the "zero" on the timing tab. I have an advancable timing light, and it does basically the same thing, but it uses electronics to do it. If I want 30deg @ 3000rpm, I just set the rpm, and "dial in" 30deg on the light, and then line up the "0" on the balancer. Does the same thing, with less fuss.

Another trick some engine builders will do, is mark the balancer for true TDC. This involves using a piston stop, and turning the engine by hand until it hits the stop. Mark the balancer there, and then turn the engine the other direction until it hits the stop there, and mark the balancer. The exact center distance between the two marks you just made will be "true" TDC, as seen on the balancer. Then, the balancer is marked at that center distance, to be used as TDC when timing the engine. This eliminates any balancer defects, as far as timing marks go.
Does this make any sense at all?!

It does.  So I should check my timing at idle, 3000 and 4000 rpm to see if my vac advance is working properly.   Should these three marks all hit the same spot when timing at the set RPM?

Well, I couldn't tell you WHY he marked the balancer like that. In theory, tho, if you wanted 30deg. advance @ 3000rpm, then the 30deg. mark would line up with the "0" on the timing tab @ 3000rpm. By "0", I mean the TDC position on the timing tab. Most of them are a large "V" shape notch, and are marked as "0".
The total advance, and what RPM it comes in at will vary according to the engine builder's preference, or what actually works best for each engine/vehicle/driver combo. There really is no one set way to do it, or one carved in stone spec. The only real way to get it done properly, for the most usable HP, is on a chassis dyno. Most of us do not have access to one o dem bad boys, so...we just play it by ear!

yes..  a springs change is pretty much a requirement to set the timing perfect..

[QUOTE=Adams' Apple]Some builders will mark the balancer to make it easier to set the timing at certain rpms. Most pro racers have the balancer marked all the way around to help with "degree-ing" the cam. Matter of fact, most pro type balancers are marked that way to start with.(Fluidamper, etc.)
For instance, if you wanted 30deg. advance @ 3000rpm, then you would simply set the engine rpm to 3000, and look at the timing mark(30deg), and set that mark(30deg) on the "zero" on the timing tab. I have an advancable timing light, and it does basically the same thing, but it uses electronics to do it. If I want 30deg @ 3000rpm, I just set the rpm, and "dial in" 30deg on the light, and then line up the "0" on the balancer. Does the same thing, with less fuss.

Another trick some engine builders will do, is mark the balancer for true TDC. This involves using a piston stop, and turning the engine by hand until it hits the stop. Mark the balancer there, and then turn the engine the other direction until it hits the stop there, and mark the balancer. The exact center distance between the two marks you just made will be "true" TDC, as seen on the balancer. Then, the balancer is marked at that center distance, to be used as TDC when timing the engine. This eliminates any balancer defects, as far as timing marks go.
Does this make any sense at all?! [/QUOTE] cthulhu2006-10-02 12:37:20

Thanks Joel!

[QUOTE=jbova2]OK, Her I go again. Can't leave well enough alone and all. LOL

I have advanced the Mallory HEI to Max vacume at idle (1000 RPM)= 16 PSI and took her out for a ride. Ran FANTASTIC,
 Would not start at all though, so I backed off the timing to 13 PSI at idle until I could fire her up. Readjusted the carb and all was well until.....

 How can I get the full power and the ability to turn the engine over too? I set the timing with a gauge with the vac advance blocked off. Can I alter the vacume advance to kick in around 2500-300 RPM? or am I missing something. Even thought maybe the starter was week (New Starter though) New Battery....Arrrrgggg. I really want it to run like it did at 16 PSI (set at idle) No Pings, No Miss, just F A S T .....Smokin Fast.... At 13 PSI It is not the same......

Thank you for your patience here. I really did look for the other thread and seem to not be able to find it.

Anyone? Ideas?
JB


[/QUOTE]

Reading all the posts on the subject of timing the engine, I'm really confused now.

Good Morning, First I want to thank you and everyone who has contributed to this thread.