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Topic: How to remove valve covers

in Forum: C3 Engines


How to remove valve covers

Posted: 9/26/06 7:21pm Message 1 of 4
Former Member
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Morehead City, NC - USA
Joined: 7/16/2005
Posts: 31
Vette(s): 1978 Silver Anniv L-82 Oyster interior
At the risk of demonstrating my ignorance, I'll ask what will probably seem simplisitic to most of you. Anyhow - How do I go about removing the valve covers for painting? Ermm   Anything to be careful about? Thanks


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How to remove valve covers

Posted: 9/27/06 6:16am Message 2 of 4
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
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Eastern Oklahoma County, OK - USA
Joined: 1/3/2006
Posts: 1560
Vette(s): 1980 Black L48 T-Tops
You'll need to make sure all the wires to the carb and vacuum hoses are out of the way.  Label them if you need to remove them and take plenty of pix close up of anything you remove.  I found it easier to loosen the alternator, remove the belt and swing it back out of the way toward the fender.  If you have the A.I.R. system installed, you might have to remove the hoses that go to the pump.  Not so much for the removal, but to keep the fresh covers from smudging or scratching when you go back in. 

You'll need to remove and replace the gaskets and don't lose the little tabs that are most likely under the bolts that hold the cover down.  They help spread the torque out over more surface area.

Mainly, just study each side for a while and see what you think will be in your way.  On removal, you will find the stuff that kinks or binds and can remove or move it then so you have a clean entry on replacement.

Enjoy!




How to remove valve covers

Posted: 9/27/06 8:58am Message 3 of 4
Former Member
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Morehead City, NC - USA
Joined: 7/16/2005
Posts: 31
Vette(s): 1978 Silver Anniv L-82 Oyster interior
Thanks,
I thought it would be fairly straightforward, but I didn't want to assume!



How to remove valve covers

Posted: 9/27/06 9:41am Message 4 of 4
Former Member
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Joined: 10/21/2003
Posts: 1220
I think I make out L82 emblems on your hood. That makes it a little easier as the aluminum valve covers seal a little better than the stamped steel. No tabs under the bolts either, not necessary.  As dnv said, remove everything in the way, makes it so much easier when you don't have to try to cram the covers back on without scratching them. If you have cruise, that bracket on the driver side rear needs to come loose, too. It's a pain. You'll probably find out that there's no gasket under them(if still original), just RTV. Use gaskets now, I prefer to put some RTV on both sides of the gasket, basically gluing them to the heads. Just enough to seal, not gobs! Apply the sealant to one gasket side and adhere it to the valve cover, let it set up a little so it doesnt move, than apply a small bead to the other side and put them on while it's still wet.  I'm always more concerned with leaks than getting them off again. And clean the gasket surfaces, and clean them again. And don't over tighten the bolts. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet and hold it with the extension between my middle fingers and tighten the bolts like that. Just as much torque as you can get by just twisting your wrist. (unless you're REAL strong!)   Mike


in Forum: C3 Engines


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