Topic: Idle problems
in Forum: C3 Engines
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I have a 78 L42 with a starting and idle problem also. I bought the
car with and Off-road exhaust and it ran very well but was very loud.
I replace the off-road with a cat less muffler system and now the
car idles very rough with stalling after it gets hot. Cold idle is
where it should be and seems to work correctly. When hot the idle
is between 500 and 550 which according to the engine sticker is
correct for hot idle. It jumps up to about 600 when in gear. It's
an automatic. The air doesn't seem to change the idle. I used
carburetor cleaner and the idle seems to improve a little. The car
has about 38K. I ran the car for a two hour trip and the car
performed well although when I stopped for lights it seemed to idle
very low but it didn't stall or stumble when I accelerated. I parked
the car in the driveway and ate lunch. After lunch I tried to start
the car again to put it away and the starter ran but the car didn't
catch. I tried about 10 times. It would almost catch but not keep
running. I then tried with the gas fully depressed and was finally
able to start the car. With the cleaner off I checked out all the
carburetor movements and all seemed normal except for the idle
solenoid which doesn't seem to work correctly. I'll try to get
another one but I can't see why that would cause my problem. Any
suggestions?
car with and Off-road exhaust and it ran very well but was very loud.
I replace the off-road with a cat less muffler system and now the
car idles very rough with stalling after it gets hot. Cold idle is
where it should be and seems to work correctly. When hot the idle
is between 500 and 550 which according to the engine sticker is
correct for hot idle. It jumps up to about 600 when in gear. It's
an automatic. The air doesn't seem to change the idle. I used
carburetor cleaner and the idle seems to improve a little. The car
has about 38K. I ran the car for a two hour trip and the car
performed well although when I stopped for lights it seemed to idle
very low but it didn't stall or stumble when I accelerated. I parked
the car in the driveway and ate lunch. After lunch I tried to start
the car again to put it away and the starter ran but the car didn't
catch. I tried about 10 times. It would almost catch but not keep
running. I then tried with the gas fully depressed and was finally
able to start the car. With the cleaner off I checked out all the
carburetor movements and all seemed normal except for the idle
solenoid which doesn't seem to work correctly. I'll try to get
another one but I can't see why that would cause my problem. Any
suggestions?
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Hey Leroy,
Does yours' still have the Q-Jet Carb? If so, take a look under C3 FUEL, EMISSIONS CONTROL AND EXHAUST
See "Q-Jet Cough" posted by me in late September.
Although our carbs have different issues, there was some helpful info provided there for anyone with a Q-Jet.
First See Adams Apple's post where it says "Ken's Carb. Article". There is alot good info there provided by Kyster.
Then scroll down to a detailed post by ACPLUS for more good info on idle adjustment, etc. Lots of good info from members here!
Hope this helps!
Kevin

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Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The exhaust change may, or may NOT have anything to do with the issue you are now having.
It sounds as if you may have a vacuum leak somewhere, but that usually creates a higher idle, not lower idle. However...you may have a problem with the EGR valve that could cause this problem. It's possible that when you changed the exhaust, it allowed enough backpressure reduction to let some crap blow out of the intake/heads, into the EGR valve, and hang it open a smidgeon(technical measurement). This can happen when you "nail" it after a modification, to see how it runs...

It can also be a carb problem. Once you did get the car started after holding the pedal down and cranking it, did it blow a lot of black smoke out the tailpipes? (did ya even notice?) That would definitely indicate a carb that may be leaking, or a float level that is too high, which is really what your description of how the engine is running points to...
It sounds as if you may have a vacuum leak somewhere, but that usually creates a higher idle, not lower idle. However...you may have a problem with the EGR valve that could cause this problem. It's possible that when you changed the exhaust, it allowed enough backpressure reduction to let some crap blow out of the intake/heads, into the EGR valve, and hang it open a smidgeon(technical measurement). This can happen when you "nail" it after a modification, to see how it runs...



It can also be a carb problem. Once you did get the car started after holding the pedal down and cranking it, did it blow a lot of black smoke out the tailpipes? (did ya even notice?) That would definitely indicate a carb that may be leaking, or a float level that is too high, which is really what your description of how the engine is running points to...
Joel Adams
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The idle solenoid is what controls idle speed. To check that there is no other problem, unplug the wire from the solenoid, and unscrew the idle stop of the solenoid until your car idles at a good speed. If it now runs and drives well, you might be able to clean the solenoid if it just sticky, or else replace it.
Larry
Larry
What Joel said, also if you can disconnect the exhaust and see if the problem still exsist, this will let you know if maybe there is a restriction in the exhaust.
Next suggestion is you can bypass the solenoid (for a test) on the driver's side of the carb, behind the throttle linkage on the side (not the front) you will see an idle adjuster screw you can turn it clockwise to raise your idle and see if this helps. If your motor is hot watch the Rad hose and thermostat housing it's hot too. Seeing as you had to put the throttle to the floor it is possible that your carb is flooding or "drooling" gas.
The solenoid mounted on a 78 FACTORY carburator is just for the AC and has nothing to do with the idle adjustment(contrary to what the shop manual says). Idle speed is adjusted with the screw on the side of the carb that contacts the linkage. In non AC mode, the soleniod plunger doesn't even contact the linkage. When the air is turned on the idle is simply kicked up about a hundred rpms to help with the added load from the AC compressor.
mkapp7879 2008-10-23 20:04:56
Idle speed should be 700 in drive(L82), so a little higher in park.
Thanks. I have a L42 and the engine tag says 5500 for idle and 6000 for car in drive. My RPM's don't change with AC on. I'll try with the idle selenoid out of the way and the idle at 5500 and see if the problem returns.
[QUOTE=LeeW78]Thanks. I have a L42 and the engine tag says 5500 for idle and 6000 for car in drive. My RPM's don't change with AC on. I'll try with the idle selenoid out of the way and the idle at 5500 and see if the problem returns.[/QUOTE]
OK, I assume you mean L48, info I have says idle speed in DRIVE should be 500. It HAS to be higher in park or neutral as there's no load on it. Adjust it to 500 or even 550 with it in drive with someone holding the brake.
The AC solenoid will kick the idle up about 100rpm when activated but needs help, ya gotta blip the throttle. The plunger doesn't have enough force to push the idle up, just to hold it up.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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