[QUOTE=scott78] no it is 5 and 6 . they are across from each other. my concern is the compression ok or does it indicate anything ?
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It would be unusual to have opposing cylinders w/bad gaskets, especially on a blown engine(as far as the lower comp. readings). Did you do the comp. test with the throttle all the way open? That would effect the two cyls. if you have a dual-plane mnfld, which you probably do not.
My guess would be the valves maybe not adjusted correctly on those two, or, the cam could be bad. The # 5 & 6 cyl. lobes would be next to each other. If nothing else pops up to explain it, you may need to check the actual lift/duration on these two(four, actually) cam lobes. A bad grind, or flat lobes would not be unheard of.
As far as the loss of coolant, a pressure test would be a good place to start. I would suggest you do that while the engine is hot/warm. If it is a cracked/damaged head, it will show up easier that way. You can also use an ultraviolet dye in the coolant, and see if you can locate a leak that way.
Good luck! That's a sweet ride ya got there, Scott!

In reality a range of 148 to 160 is acceptable by anyones specs.  I don't see any problem there at all.  The lowest is less than 10%, and that's just fine.

As far as the water loss problems goes, that's another story.  You can have good compression and still have a seeping head gasket causing some loss.  Start with a pressure check and see if anything shows up that way.

Then go to the local parts store and see if you can rent/borrow/buy a chemical block tester.   This fits in the top of the radiator and you add a detection fluid that's blue in color.   All the air from the radiator goes through an air stone and up throught the fluid.  If there is any combustion leakage into the coolant the fluid will change from blue to green to yellow.  Any color change is bad, and you have a leak.  If there is no color change, the seal is fine, at least from combustion to coolant.

You may also check for something like a leaking freeze plug or weeping from the water pump.  Dont' overlook something as simple as a leaking radiator cap.  Often leaks can be so small that the coolant evaporates and leaves no wet spot.  Usually a trace pattern can be found.   If not, there is a dye that can be added to the coolant.  Then use a black light on the engine, radiator, etc.  The dye will glow yellow or green under the light, and show where the leak is located.

Ken's about covered the compression problem, here's me .02 about the ignition. I use to work for Mallory, was the head of the tech and customer service department. The little black box is there to protect the electronics in the distributor from transient voltage spikes from destroying the electronics in the distributor. If you have a Unilite or Magnetic pickup, the switching transistor in the distributor is the weak link. Both of these styles of distributor need to run a ballast resistor to keep them from burning out, but if you have a high powered stereo or any other electronics that draws high current and drops off rapidly, the little black box is supposed to help in that case.  If you are running a capacitor discharge ignition box, the ballast resistor is not needed. If you are runing a points distributor it is still needed. If it quits again, I can tell you how to check the rest of the system, but it's gonna be a long post.

Dave

 what did the spark plugs (5 & 6)  look like when you did the compr test?

Update, there was some corrosion on the ballast resistor connections which I cleaned well and to date the car dying has stopped. But now I have another issue, ( of course it is a car ) I have a very elaborate stereo system which until recently has been performing great. The other day while driving I heard a very loud static noise coming from my stereo speakers. I turned off the stereo and to my surprise the noise was still there ? It became louder and sometimes seemed to pulsate with the speed of the engine. concerned I called a local dealer of mine and he said it could be a number of things and for me to bring in the car.  Can an electrical short in the stereo system screw up the engine spark ? After the last stereo issue the car seems to have developed a miss ??
Anybody have any lighter fluid and a match. 

Also I have mallory electronic distributor, but there is a condenser connected to the ignition coil. Is this correct ??

[QUOTE=Pumps]

Ken's about covered the compression problem, here's me .02 about the ignition. I use to work for Mallory, was the head of the tech and customer service department. The little black box is there to protect the electronics in the distributor from transient voltage spikes from destroying the electronics in the distributor. If you have a Unilite or Magnetic pickup, the switching transistor in the distributor is the weak link. Both of these styles of distributor need to run a ballast resistor to keep them from burning out, but if you have a high powered stereo or any other electronics that draws high current and drops off rapidly, the little black box is supposed to help in that case. If you are running a capacitor discharge ignition box, the ballast resistor is not needed. If you are runing a points distributor it is still needed. If it quits again, I can tell you how to check the rest of the system, but it's gonna be a long post.

Dave

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Dave-
I've got a Mallory Unilite with the tach hook up. What does the ignition ballast resistor look like?
Thanks

It looks like a white ceramic rectangle, usually on the firewall with a line running directly to the ignition coil. Approx .75 inches by 3 inches with 2 male connectors.
Car is running ok now ?? Must have a bad ground or short that is intermittant.
Changed wires,plugs, checked the compression all good. Can't go to a real mech until the problem pops up again.

 Scott, It's wierd that the stereo is making noise when turned off. I was gonna say alternator, but that's usually with the system turned on. What use to happen with a unilite, is that they are sensative to transient voltage spikes. This is how the electrical gurus at work explained it to me: You have a amplifier in conjunction with your stereo, it draws a fair amont of current, you are playing and you turn it off suddenly. Now follow the thinking of the gurus, the alternator is pumping out current, and suddenly it doesn't have to go to the amp. The current has to dissapate some where, this is what they claim that damages the switching transistor in the unilite and mag pick up distributor. That's why the came up with that little black box (filter)connected to the distributor. Yeah, it use to make me scratch my head also, but after the addition of it, the unilite problems cut down some. It's unusual for a missfire due to a cd box or distributor electroncis. I would determine what cylinder is missing, and check the plug, wire and distributor cap and rotor, as far as the ignition system these are the likely culprits.

Dave, car is running ok now, after chaning plugs and wires. The stereo static started with the stereo on, then I turned the radio off and it did not go away ?? I have to get the stereo to re-produce that static to diagnose the root of the problem. I have three amps, but if I turn the radio off the power to these should also be off. Which leads me to beleive it might be a problem with the connections from the head unit . Being that all the speakers had static not just one.  ????