Topic: msd ignition
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Former Member
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Welch, MN - USA
Joined: 7/18/2003
Posts: 201
Vette(s): 1974 Black 454 Stingray coupe, turbo 400 tranny, barry grant 750 carb, hooker super competition headers, moves along!
hello everyone, i just bought a complete msd electronic ignition system including distributor, ignition box, and coil. Anyone have this set up, the guy i bought it from said it made a world of difference in smoothness and starting. Let me know if you've heard anything. Thanks
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I just installed this set up this summer. I was able to decrease my required octane level from 98 to 94 (I'm running 11:1 compression with a 3/4 race cam) without problems with pinging. I can't say as to easier starting but my idle quality has definitely improved, my gas mileage went up, and I have had the same level of performance that I had burning 98 octane.
If you have any other questions I'll be happy to do my best answering them.

If you have any other questions I'll be happy to do my best answering them.

'69 350/350 conv.
Former Member
Send PM
Welch, MN - USA
Joined: 7/18/2003
Posts: 201
Vette(s): 1974 Black 454 Stingray coupe, turbo 400 tranny, barry grant 750 carb, hooker super competition headers, moves along!
thanks for the input, my car only has 8.25 compression, i run 93, but i don't know that i would want to run less???? I don't know for sure. Was it tough to install? Did you notice any kinds of performance gains??? Thanks again.
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Former Member
Send PM
Welch, MN - USA
Joined: 7/18/2003
Posts: 201
Vette(s): 1974 Black 454 Stingray coupe, turbo 400 tranny, barry grant 750 carb, hooker super competition headers, moves along!
and what kind of gas mileage gains are we talking here, my big block is killer on the gas, i can't get 10 for the life of me, i'm usually getting around 8-9. Big blocks
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Mostly I ended up with a car that just drove better nearly all of the time. My mileage went from 8mpg to 13mpg (I could probably do better but I have my foot into it most of the time). I also changed from one holley carb to another around that time so I can't be sure that all of the gain was from the ignition change.
Idle quality increased dramatically and performance is definitely better. If you are looking for bolt on horsepower though, this isn't it, but, it will definitely maximize the set up you already have. I would bet that more than half of the people out there looking for more performance aren't getting the best performance that their current motor is capable of. I would also expect that the improvements would be most noticable in the engine that has been built for high performance were the demands on the ignition is the greatest (as is my case).
As for compression and octane, 93 octane and 8.25:1 is a great way to go. The 93 will help you maximize performance and the 8.25:1 will prevent the headaches that come with high compression engines.
As for installation, plan more time for wiring then mechanical installation and you won't end up being frustrated. I have the 6AL box with the tach drive distributor (I'm not sure if you have the seperate box). I mounted mine out of sight, under the hood, on the rear side of the passenger wheel well. I can give you more details if you want to mount the box the same way I did. Replacing the distributor was fairly easy, BUT, make sure you read the directions before you pull your old one!! You should also be replacing your coil and stock plug wires (so you don't melt them). I recommend all MSD since the quality is definitely there and they are only slightly more expensive than the lesser brands.
I also found that this was an excellent time to install a kill switch that a professional would have a hard time hotwiring! Overall, this is definitely a job that should be attempted when you can take your time!
As a side note, there is a lot of talk about ignition module upgrades among C3r's and the MSD set up is definitely more expensive, however, consider all that you get:
- a brand new billet distributor, that includes new bearings, gearing, shaft, rotor, cap, and a tuneable timing curve.
- with most systems, a rev limiter is included
- a 50,000 volt spark (stock 10,000 volts, ignition module & new coil, 35,000 volts)
- multiple spark discharge for smoother idling
- fantastic reliability means never being stranded on the side of the road like I've heard from so many Pertronics owners (sorry guys!)
- the ability to install a nearly foolproof kill switch!
Hopefully all of this will be helpful (ok, I also got more than my 2 cents in here too). Let me know if you can use any more installation info!!

Idle quality increased dramatically and performance is definitely better. If you are looking for bolt on horsepower though, this isn't it, but, it will definitely maximize the set up you already have. I would bet that more than half of the people out there looking for more performance aren't getting the best performance that their current motor is capable of. I would also expect that the improvements would be most noticable in the engine that has been built for high performance were the demands on the ignition is the greatest (as is my case).
As for compression and octane, 93 octane and 8.25:1 is a great way to go. The 93 will help you maximize performance and the 8.25:1 will prevent the headaches that come with high compression engines.
As for installation, plan more time for wiring then mechanical installation and you won't end up being frustrated. I have the 6AL box with the tach drive distributor (I'm not sure if you have the seperate box). I mounted mine out of sight, under the hood, on the rear side of the passenger wheel well. I can give you more details if you want to mount the box the same way I did. Replacing the distributor was fairly easy, BUT, make sure you read the directions before you pull your old one!! You should also be replacing your coil and stock plug wires (so you don't melt them). I recommend all MSD since the quality is definitely there and they are only slightly more expensive than the lesser brands.
I also found that this was an excellent time to install a kill switch that a professional would have a hard time hotwiring! Overall, this is definitely a job that should be attempted when you can take your time!
As a side note, there is a lot of talk about ignition module upgrades among C3r's and the MSD set up is definitely more expensive, however, consider all that you get:
- a brand new billet distributor, that includes new bearings, gearing, shaft, rotor, cap, and a tuneable timing curve.
- with most systems, a rev limiter is included
- a 50,000 volt spark (stock 10,000 volts, ignition module & new coil, 35,000 volts)
- multiple spark discharge for smoother idling
- fantastic reliability means never being stranded on the side of the road like I've heard from so many Pertronics owners (sorry guys!)
- the ability to install a nearly foolproof kill switch!
Hopefully all of this will be helpful (ok, I also got more than my 2 cents in here too). Let me know if you can use any more installation info!!

'69 350/350 conv.
Former Member
Send PM
Welch, MN - USA
Joined: 7/18/2003
Posts: 201
Vette(s): 1974 Black 454 Stingray coupe, turbo 400 tranny, barry grant 750 carb, hooker super competition headers, moves along!
yeah, thanks for all the advice. I have a 750 barry grant carb, hooker super comp headers, 3 inch exhaust, and a 69 427 aluminum intake, so even though i don't have the highest compression in the world, i bet i'm still making well over 350hp. My guess is close to 400, so the much improved ignition well be welcomed. My distributor is shot anyway, i bought the complete system, the billet distributor, 6al box, and coil. I already bought and installed the msd 8.5mm wires. I am just looking for smoother running, and definitely some mileage.
If you could give me some more details on location that would be great, and have you had problems with breaking your tach drive cable?? I broke mine right away when i replaced it, but hopefully it's because of my jumpy distributor. Did you buy an l adapter or anything?? Mine is also the tach drive distributor. Thanks for all the help, it's really appreciated.
If you could give me some more details on location that would be great, and have you had problems with breaking your tach drive cable?? I broke mine right away when i replaced it, but hopefully it's because of my jumpy distributor. Did you buy an l adapter or anything?? Mine is also the tach drive distributor. Thanks for all the help, it's really appreciated.
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Former Member
Send PM
Welch, MN - USA
Joined: 7/18/2003
Posts: 201
Vette(s): 1974 Black 454 Stingray coupe, turbo 400 tranny, barry grant 750 carb, hooker super competition headers, moves along!
and i only paid 350 for the entire setup, only used for a couple months, looks brand new to me!!!!!!!
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Excellent price. I updated my low performance L-48 with aluminum intake, MSD igninition, roller rockers, headers, etc. I really didn't want to break "INTO" the engine as I only have 53,000 original miles. I know that my performance increase was very noticible. The only regret I have is I let someone talk me into a Holley 750, vice the Holley 600 I was going to get. Anyone interested in a 750??
My gas mileage is about 12 MPG, which I really would like to be around +18 Mpg. My wife has a 2000 C5 and she rubs in her +22 mpg.

1975/L48/Coupe/4 Speed(1 of 1057)/Headers/true duals/aluminum intake/holley 750/MSD ignition/roller rockers/
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I'm just saying that high compression definitely isn't all that its cracked up to be. It's great on a racetrack but not that good on the street.
As for the mounting location; I mounted the box horizontally on the rearward side of the passenger side wheel well, inside the fender. First move the box around until you find the location where the box rocks the least. Then use masking tape approximately where the screws will be. Refit the box and mark the nearest screw hole with a pen on the tape. Drill the hole for the mounting bolt (I had to roll a drill bit between my fingers due the limited space - the fiberglass drills very easily). Mount the box with the rubber mount and one screw. Use the remaining 3 screw holes as the guides for the other holes. BTW, I mounted mine with the rev limiting chip facing downward, I can just reach it without much trouble. I hid the wiring for the box under the harnass for the heater wiring.
As for the tach drive, no adaptors and I've never had any problems with my cable. The only problem I did have was that my cable was about 1/8" too long for the new distributor so I cut it using a dremel tool and a vise grip pliers. I definitely wouldn't use any kind of saw here!
As for the kill switch, all you have to do is install a switch in line with the correct wire in the MSD system. The location is totally up to you. Because it is not part of the GM wiring, conventional hot wiring is not possible and since everyone installs an aftermarket system differently it is extremely difficult to find which two wires need to be cut and twisted together to make the car run. The only issue then becomes how well can you hide the switch!
Again, this is probably more than you wanted to know but if I left anything out just let me now.

As for the mounting location; I mounted the box horizontally on the rearward side of the passenger side wheel well, inside the fender. First move the box around until you find the location where the box rocks the least. Then use masking tape approximately where the screws will be. Refit the box and mark the nearest screw hole with a pen on the tape. Drill the hole for the mounting bolt (I had to roll a drill bit between my fingers due the limited space - the fiberglass drills very easily). Mount the box with the rubber mount and one screw. Use the remaining 3 screw holes as the guides for the other holes. BTW, I mounted mine with the rev limiting chip facing downward, I can just reach it without much trouble. I hid the wiring for the box under the harnass for the heater wiring.
As for the tach drive, no adaptors and I've never had any problems with my cable. The only problem I did have was that my cable was about 1/8" too long for the new distributor so I cut it using a dremel tool and a vise grip pliers. I definitely wouldn't use any kind of saw here!
As for the kill switch, all you have to do is install a switch in line with the correct wire in the MSD system. The location is totally up to you. Because it is not part of the GM wiring, conventional hot wiring is not possible and since everyone installs an aftermarket system differently it is extremely difficult to find which two wires need to be cut and twisted together to make the car run. The only issue then becomes how well can you hide the switch!
Again, this is probably more than you wanted to know but if I left anything out just let me now.

'69 350/350 conv.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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