Topic: My Starter and Flex Plate no longer connect.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Temple City, CA - USA
Joined: 10/3/2010
Posts: 365
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow. 350 / Automatic.

Yes, I went out for a winter blast today and didn't get past Sam's Club gas station. Nice ride home in a big AAA flat bed tow truck.
My original starter, that came with the ZZ4 engine when I bought the car, died some time ago and I always meant to rebuild it for a backup. The new starter I put on is one of those compact hi-rev models. It's been reliable but started making wrong sounds a year ago. We checked it and it seemed OK. But its finally hit the no-start barrier.
I'm thinking I need to readjust the shims, or add one so the gears mesh better.
Or I can rebuild the old starter and reinstall it.

Which brings me to my next question: I keep seeing starter braces for sale, but mine never had one. Do I need one on a 350?
Oh boy, concrete is cold this time of year. Time to get those padded rubber things HFT sells.
Hey Adam! Ever tried to get HFT as a sponsor?
Thanks,
Jim
BTW This is in this forum because I couldn't decide whether starter problems go under electrical or engine.
|UPDATED|12/28/2014 1:59:40 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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First thing I would do it pull the starter out and check the teeth on the starter and all the teeth on the flywheel to rule out a problem there. It may be a little late adding or subtracting shims.
I had a Powermaster hi torque mini starter on my old 350 HO GM crate engine, it was reliable for the 12 years I had it. Never used that front starter brace that came with the OEM setup. I'm pretty sure they are rebuildable like any other starter unit.
It's most likely it's filled with Chinese parts like my old Tuff Stuff chrome alternator. I had to rebuild that after a year. Found a site that crossed all the Chinese parts with NAPA numbers and rebuilt the alternator for half the cost of another one.
Let us know what the teeth look like and we'll go from there.

Equinunk, PA - USA
Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 2475
Vette(s): 1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.
Sounds like it may have some loose bolts.

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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20224
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
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Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Could be any number of problems. Does it sound like the starter is turning, but just not connecting to the flywheel?If it is turning, it could be that the solenoid is faulty, and not kicking the bendix out to engage the flywheel, or it could be that there are no toofers for it to catch, either on the bendix, OR the flywheel. Need to determine what is happening first. If the starter is just click/clunking, but not actually turning anything, that could be the solenoid OR the starter is bad.
I'd hafta agree with Darryl, and say get the starter off, and check the teefers on the flywheel....might have a spot where the teefers are just worn off/gone, and it just happened to stop in the exact spot at Sam's.
I'd hafta agree with Darryl, and say get the starter off, and check the teefers on the flywheel....might have a spot where the teefers are just worn off/gone, and it just happened to stop in the exact spot at Sam's.

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Temple City, CA - USA
Joined: 10/3/2010
Posts: 365
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow. 350 / Automatic.
An update..
We finally got to work on the cars today. Problem with the starter: didn't put enough threadlock on the bolts. It was very loose. The bolts worked loose and we lost one shim. Reinstalled with threadlock and a new shim and viola! back in business.
Couldn't get threadlock on one bolt because we'd have to remove the header to get the bolt off. My plan is to go and loosen the bolt again, as far as it will go and inject some threadlock between the starter and bell housing with an insulin needle. I don't want to do this again.
Jim
We finally got to work on the cars today. Problem with the starter: didn't put enough threadlock on the bolts. It was very loose. The bolts worked loose and we lost one shim. Reinstalled with threadlock and a new shim and viola! back in business.
Couldn't get threadlock on one bolt because we'd have to remove the header to get the bolt off. My plan is to go and loosen the bolt again, as far as it will go and inject some threadlock between the starter and bell housing with an insulin needle. I don't want to do this again.
Jim
Glad it wasn't nothing serious. 

Are you using the knurled starter bolts and not regular bolts? Those do make a difference.

Temple City, CA - USA
Joined: 10/3/2010
Posts: 365
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow. 350 / Automatic.
Yes, using the knurled bolts.
sarge8 its good to see someone who stills rebuilds starter,alt, its not hard. opinon,I have a chance to get 85 vette, 10k on car,i want the engine to put in my 79 my old engine runs great I get litte oil drops on floor litte blue smoke want do you think mush go out ans snowblow driveway had 10 '' OF SNOW thanks dwa 175
dwa 175,
Yes you can put the '85 engine in your '79. Can you start a new thread on this project you contemplating? We can all discuss details and answer questions that may arise. I don't want to get off topic on this current thread. 

Jim, that's good you have the proper knurled bolts. A lot of people don't torque their starter bolts with a torque wrench, I would suggest you do that. It may do the trick without using "lock tite." I think the torque specs are between 30-35 ft. lbs. Double check those specs in a repair manual.

Temple City, CA - USA
Joined: 10/3/2010
Posts: 365
Vette(s): 1969 Daytona Yellow. 350 / Automatic.
Yes, according to my ZZ4 specs, "Starter motor bolt/screw ..................................................... 35 ft.-lbs. / 48 N·m." Thanks for the help. I guess I better get under there and check the torque. I sure don't want to ride home in a tow truck again.
|UPDATED|1/25/2015 5:35:47 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|1/25/2015 5:35:47 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
in Forum: C3 Engines
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