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Topic: New Carb

in Forum: C3 Engines


New Carb

Posted: 4/7/05 1:42pm Message 1 of 16
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North Ridgeville, OH - USA
Joined: 3/16/2005
Posts: 18
Vette(s): 1976 Coupe 4 Speed

All,

I need some help I have the original Rochester on my 76 with all the typical problems (vacum leak etc) I have tightened the front bolts carefully with a little bit of improvement.  My question is I would like to replace it and need some recommendations.  I am a new owner and a amature when it comes to engine repair but I am a quick study and really enjoy turning the wrench.  I want to do this right I also want to dress up my engine with some chrome parts valve covers, air cleaner master cylinder are these difficult to install?  Any advise would be greatly appreciated.




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New Carb

Posted: 4/7/05 2:27pm Message 2 of 16
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Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
Don't overlook having your Q-Jet professionally rebuilt. By doing that you'll eliminate any possibility of mismatch of jetting, having to adapt new fuel lines and filters and vacuum lines, as well as the idle kick-up solenoid if you have a/c. Other carb makers such as Holley an Edelbrock require you to use adapters and buy their proprietary kick-up solenoids. Not that they don't make good carbs or I'm trying to talk you out of buying an aftermarket one, but there's simply more to it than remove and replace, and it all costs dollars you might not be aware of.

I'd work on making sure your car runs the way you want before spending money on dress up accessories. You can get carried away with appearance the suddenly a major mechanical issue comes up and your dollars have been spent. Believe me...been there, done that!

When you do decide to dress things up, I'd say go to cruise-ins and look at what others have done. Some are tasteful, some are grotesque, and most are a lot of money. Plan it out. When it comes to buying custom valve covers, watch out for the cheap stamped steel ones...they may look beautiful, but they're made out of thin gauge sheet steel that has a lot of spring, and you'll never keep the hold down screws tight and they'll leak oil. Again...been there, done that.

Plan it out...regardless how you spend your money, spend it wisely...it will save you bucks and aggravation later.




New Carb

Posted: 4/7/05 2:38pm Message 3 of 16
Former Member
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North Ridgeville, OH - USA
Joined: 3/16/2005
Posts: 18
Vette(s): 1976 Coupe 4 Speed

Gunslinger,

Thanks for the advise I am not opposed to rebuilding the carb just not sure on how I do that or if I have someone do it.  On the dress up I am looking to be tasteful I will take my time and plan it out as well as the budget.  I boated for many years and understand the expense involved and how easy it is to get carried away.   I want to do this right the car is in pretty good shape just getting old only have 27k on it.




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New Carb

Posted: 4/7/05 3:28pm Message 4 of 16
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Dorr, MI - USA
Joined: 8/21/2002
Posts: 2581
Vette(s): 71 Colonnade Hardtop Coupe Torch Red with black interior originally L48 built to push around 360hp
I would sugest having a carb shop rebuild and possiably tweak your quad after installing. They can be a bear sometimes to dial in. I had my 71 Quad rebuilt for $175.00. I ran it for a while then went to a Edlebrock high rise manifold and a Holley 650 cfm carb. It really increased my horsepower but it did take some tweaking. If you change carbs you will have to figure out how to choke it. Either elec. or dial in the old stovepipe like I did. It closes when it wants to, but I always let her warm up before I take off anyway. Terry


New Carb

Posted: 4/7/05 4:02pm Message 5 of 16
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Los Angeles, CA - USA
Joined: 1/27/2005
Posts: 260
Vette(s): 1972 elkhart green T-Top, New paint, one previous owner, 370hp/350, hookers/flowMasters. Original PW,PS,PB,AC. All docs.
[QUOTE=Gunslinger] When it comes to buying custom valve covers,
watch out for the cheap stamped steel ones...they may look beautiful, but
they're made out of thin gauge sheet steel that has a lot of spring, and
you'll never keep the hold down screws tight and they'll leak oil.
Again...been there, done that.
[/QUOTE]

Thats the problem I now have, the ever leaky chrome covers. Any
suggestions on a decent set that looks good (to go with a fresh rebuild)? I
need a breather hole on each one as well.


New Carb

Posted: 4/7/05 5:51pm Message 6 of 16
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Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
Lowbrowser...

About the best I can say about chromed valve covers is just be careful about the gauge of the steel...quality ones will definitely have some weight to them. The cheap ones quality-wise tend to run very inexpensively...like less than $50 a pair. Better ones runs much higher. Also consider a good set of aluminum covers as well. The aluminum valve covers tend to be thicker and stiffer than stamped steel valve covers and are usually less prone to leaks.

Stuff for cars generally proves the old saying that you get what you pay for.


New Carb

Posted: 4/7/05 8:49pm Message 7 of 16
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Joined: 3/9/2003
Posts: 281
I've always been partial to a nicely polished set of finned aluminum covers that were original to the LT-1's or Z-28's.  Check out Ecklers, I know they sell them.


'69 350/350 conv.

New Carb

Posted: 4/7/05 8:56pm Message 8 of 16
Former Member
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Los Angeles, CA - USA
Joined: 1/27/2005
Posts: 260
Vette(s): 1972 elkhart green T-Top, New paint, one previous owner, 370hp/350, hookers/flowMasters. Original PW,PS,PB,AC. All docs.
Many Thanks, I'm going to upgrade for sure (sick of burning oil smell).
VNCRUISER turned me onto 'Billet Specialties', some nice chrome heavy
gague covers there as well. You're right, you get what you pay for...


New Carb

Posted: 4/8/05 2:16am Message 9 of 16
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BINGHAMTON, NY - USA
Joined: 7/19/2003
Posts: 3808
Vette(s): ......
If you decide to change your carb to another brand I.E. Holley or carter,you will have to change the intake manifold,because the base plates of the carbs are a different configuration,and if you do change the manifold you have to make sure that it is not a high rise unit.You must make sure that it is close to the same hieght as the stock unit,there is very little clearence between the top of the stock carb and the hood,and the last thing you want is to get the new carb and manifold installed and find out the hard way ,the hood wont shut or you dropped the hood and have a carb sticking through it .as for the chrome valve covers I've got a set of Edelbrocks on mine ,with rubber gaskets,no leaks,cost about $65.only problem I have with them is,there is no filler cap to put the oil in,so when I have to add oil,I pull out the pcv valve,and use a small funnel to put it in.it takes a little longer that way but those shiny chrome covers look better with out that clunky oil cap on top Like Gunslinger said ,get your engine running good B4 you start worrying about all those chrome GOODIES they wont make it run any better,and they can eat up a lot of CASH .As for replacing the Master cylinder,its not hard ,I just put a new one on my 78 yesterday ,took about 30 minutes to change it and bleed everything out,what a difference it makes,never had a full pedal,I totally replaced all the calipers ,pads,brake lines ,hoses,rotors,andstill couldn't get a full pedal,as soon as I installed the master cyl. it came right up to the top.brakes are nice to have   Good luck with your new toy,jump in here if you have any problems,we'll help you out ,there is a lot of combined info in here,it's fun to get in there and do your own work,not to mention cheaper than taking it to the shop,you will be a GEAR HEAD b4 you know it


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New Carb

Posted: 4/8/05 5:04am Message 10 of 16
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Waterford, MI - USA
Joined: 9/13/2002
Posts: 1750
Vette(s): 1973 Red coupe

I replaced mine with a Holley (from Summit) that was made to replace the Q-jet. The only thing I had to change was the hole in the base for the brake booster (I had to get a brass reducer because the tapped hole was smaller than the Q-jet). Fuel line and spreadbore pattern fit great. I did spend time adjusting the carb to macth my motor and don't recommend this for someone that doesn't know what they are doing on their own.

Taking the carb to a pro will be cheaper than replacing it it the long run

Good Luck




Brian - NCM Lifetime Member

73 coupe L48, Flat-top pistons, Performer RPM Heads, Crane Cam and roller rockers, Holley 650 vac sec. Performer intake,
3.55 gear BTO 200-4R trans,
Leather seats, Seatbelt Plus 3point seatbelts, Pioneer CD player
Magnaflow Exhuast System

Dewitt radiator and dual electric fans
Borgeson Steering box
 


in Forum: C3 Engines


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