Correction........ My Edelbrock intake is what's called a low high rise? or low rise. Its slightly higher than original  looks good, and I kept my original hood. I had to buy adapter to change from square bore to spread bore. I wish I could remember the Sumitt number for you. If you call them I'm sure they can help you.  I have chrome everywhere under the hood, but my rule is don't go cheap and if you replace it, It's because the old one is worn out. Morso (sp.) or Edlebrock makes a nice valve cover. My Edlebrock with wing bolts rarley loosens. If you change the intake either study it or get some pro help. You don't want coolant or oil leakage, plus I had to fabricate the choke as the carb sits higher.

I highly recommend rebuilding the carb you have, unless you are after a performance buildup.

You can have it done by a pro, or you can get brave and do it yourself.

There is an article with pictures on rebuilding the Q-jet on www.vetteprojects.com   Look under Ken's Projects. I'm not quite done with it, and need to adjust a couple of pictures.  I will probably do that this weekend.

Yes, thanks to Ben for all the hard work and site space.  It's finally up.

kstyer38450.2976851852

 Thanks Ken, Great instuctions with pictures, I have Been waiting on this. I bought the Q-Jet book and didn't understand a darn thing. This I will Try.

Last year I researched having my carb rebuilt, i found Lars and he was highly recommended by someone in FL who was a part of C3VR. If you do a search on his name in any search engine you will also find he has written many articles about car restoration and repair.  From my communications with him, he does this as a hobby and stands behind his work as noted below in the warranty info he sent me. I sent my carb to him and he said it was a cheap Holley built by Carter and he would not rebuild. (Basically told me it was a boat anchor and it ran like one too!)  He quickly returned it to me.  I ended up getting a correct one from an online carb rebuild shop which has been excellent.  The experience was a good one overall and I wish he could have done the work for me.

Email V8FastCars@msn.com

Lars Grimsrud

(303) 604-6376

 

Cost for the Q-Jets is $100 plus return shipping, and this includes a complete teardown, hot tank, detail, precision blueprint assembly, a good quality carb kit, a new NitroFill float, a new filter, and test-running the carb on one of my engines to assure performance.  I do not have capability to do the replating process like some of the commercial rebuilders, but then I don't charge $300, either... and my carbs run good. If the carb needs other parts, such as a choke pulloff, linkage pieces, choke assembly, jetting components, etc., I charge my cost on these items in addition to the base fee.  The carbs are supplied to you with a data sheet and installation instructions.  Cost for the Holley and BG carbs usually runs about $35 more due to the cost of the kit – I only use original Holley gaskets and kits, not any of the aftermarket cheap kits in these carbs.

Warranty Information:

I do this as a hobby, and I’m not making a bunch of money off this.  I do nice work, and I test everything I ship out.  I will be shipping you a well-running, well-built product.  My warranty is limited as follows:

 

I stand behind all my work.  If you are not satisfied with the work, or if the carb/distributor does not run right for you, send it back to me. 

Many thanks to all that replied to my carb question.  I am going to go the route of having it rebuilt by a carb shop.  I had some new mufflers put on today ( Ravens) I really like them they look great and sound even better.  While I was having them installed the vacum leak I had which I thought was the base plate of the carb or somebody over tighten the bolts and warped it turns out that the master cylinder has a place underneath where it looks like there may have been a rubber gromet that dry rotted and fell out (anyone heard of this)?  The mechanic at the muffler shop put some plastic caps in place which corrected the vacum problem the car is running great now and corrected the rough idle.  He told me I should replace the master cylinder though...is it very hard to do?  What do I need to know and any recommendations on what type to buy.  Last question I want to put a picture of my car on hear but can not quite figure out how to do it can anybody help?  Thanks again to all.

The master cylinder does not leak vacuum.  There is no vacuum to the master cylinder.

He was probably talking about the power brake booster behind the master cylinder.  They do operate on vacuum.  And they can leak.  In fact the leak can be huge.  Just replacing a gasket behind the master cylinder won't do a thing.  There is a gasket where the hose attaches to a check valve, and enters the power booster.