Topic: New engine oils
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Former Member
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Cramerton, NC - USA
Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
OK guys, I dont know beans about engine oils but have been using castrol 10W30 for years and was always pleased. Now Im hearing that all the oil manufacturers are changing their formulation for the old familiar oils to meet new emissions standards. In other words, what you used to use is not whats in the bottles now even though the label is the same. In particular, stuff called ZDDP (zinc) is being eliminted which is supposed to be critical for old engines like ours but newer engines dont seem to need. Can someone here shed some light on this subject and what is the best course for us to take in making sure our old engines with their old cams and lifters are properly protected. Ive read a number of articles on the net dealing with this issue and Im more confused now than when I started. 
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Lifetime MemberDeBerry, TX - USA
Joined: 2/27/2002
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Vette(s): 1971 383 Stroker- mille miglia red...5 speed
I use Rotella 15w-40 for that reason. I can't recall where I got the info at the moment, but deisel oil is susposed to still have the additives to protect our old flat tappet cams. I'm sure someone will have more info, but..... works for me.
longhorn294 2008-07-07 12:46:40
Here's an old post by 'Anips'......
| osted: December 23 2006 at 12:49pm |
|
Fact is that the new formulated mineral oils made today are not good for us guys who run flat tappet camshaft's,the reason for that is that the oil company's don't put in the friction additives in as much as they used to, the reason for that is because most new motors run roller cams that don't have the friction problems that a flat tappet cam has, second, the sulfor additive gums up the oxygen sensor in the exh.pipes which throws off the computor and so on,thats the reason I recomend running oil made for diesels like the Sheck Rotella or GTX Traction Extra 15-40 Wt.they still have the friction and heat additives, as far as breakin run a good 10-30 oil with a can of GM EOS and change at 500 miles, don't forget to pre lube the motor before starting, for you guy's who going to buy a new flat tappet camshaft or kit make sure to buy a good made in the USA product, when everyone went to roller, there became a shortage of flat tappet lifters being made in the USA, so a lot of flat tappets were coming in from overseas, THEY SUCK. Edited by anips - December 23 2006 at 12:52pm |
I know the voices aren't real, but they have some pretty cool ideas... 
Former Member
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Mounds View, MN - USA
Joined: 5/24/2007
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Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
One of our customers is a well respected local engine builder. He puts Rotella in all new engines, but recommends the current oils once the cam is broken in. He says it is not a problem after that. Since it is not much more expensive, it can't hurt to run it all the time, either. I think any oil rated for diesel still has the additives.
Larry
Larry
Can you add good ole STP, or Wynns friction proofing?
ebo
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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Check out Bob...got some good info there. Some of it may be a little too techie, but it does explain some of the basics. There's some purdy smart fellers over there.
I've heard and read that as long as the oil you buy does NOT have the little "Starburst" symbol on it, it should be good for the older engines like our Sharks...I'm still trying to research the info...that's where Bob comes in...
I've heard and read that as long as the oil you buy does NOT have the little "Starburst" symbol on it, it should be good for the older engines like our Sharks...I'm still trying to research the info...that's where Bob comes in...
Joel Adams
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Wow pretty in depth site, I checked out the additives link. Very interesting. See ya just never knows what is happening in the dark now do ya.
Go check it out crew.
Thanks Joel
Lifetime MemberModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Be sure to check out the forums, too...something for everyone there!!
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Bob the Oil guy.. very cool site.....
Chip,
Ten15 2008-07-08 16:40:51
You can add ZDDP plus to the Rotella to bring up the zinc & phosphorous levels. It is available from auto parts stores, or from from Corvette Central (P# 301157) for about $10.
I started using Valvoline's conventional racing oil (20w-50). Although it is considered "not street legal" & it is good for older engines w/o catalytic converters & it has extra zinc.
It is available from NAPA, but it is pricey - $10 a quart. The Rotella + ZDDP is a more economical way to go.
Good luck,
Anthony
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Cramerton, NC - USA
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Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
Thanks for all the information guys, this affects all of us who still have our original engines.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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