I am a New Member here long time member on CF. I have a Tuning issue that i am looking here for other opinions, because for the life of me i can't get the tune right... dry2010-08-10 12:48:55

If the cam specs you posted are correct, you've got waaay too big of a cam in it to expect a lot of bottom end...302deg of intake duration is massive for a street car, imho. Lower gear in the rear would certainly help, but then it would be a pain to drive on the road.
Also, "massaged" heads doesn't really tell us what was done to them. Were they hogged out(ported)?
You may simply be expecting more than the combo you have can deliver....I'm betting the real power doesn't start coming on until around 3000rpms with that cam....
Perhaps others will have more ideas.
Welcome to C3VR, too!

Correction Here is the CORRECTED CAM INFO!!!  dry2010-08-12 12:59:43

Wow..sounds like a let down..three things stand out to me..one timing..is 18 degrees advanced at idle to much? Have you a way to check total advance? You need an adjustable timing light to be able to find out..it should be around 30 or so. You may not have enough total advance. Two... What compression is the engine? Not sure if adding new higher compression pistons will help much if the heads have large bowl areas..ie 76cc if I remember right..three..port job..I really hate when people do a port job without a flow bench..I have done many head port tests over the years and have found you lose flow by just taking the casting flash off..it may look nice but really messes the flow of air..it also makes the runners in the heads imbalanced where they are not the same volume anymore..to do a real port job that is volume equal takes more time than money allows..I did a study on this back in the day when camel back heads were easy and cheap to find..I found that it took over 30 hours of tweaking the ports to do a real equal job per head! Sad thing is it only gained 6 horsepower..now that was a let down..what I am getting at is its better to replace the heads with aftermarket ones that have what you want and demand in the first place..I always use the three C's also..cam carb compression..I would also contact the people you got the parts from and see if the are a matched set..most companies offer kits that are dyno tested to do what you want..good luck..
LMK
Rich

I have a nearly  identical 74 350 4 speed with crate motor, cam, headers, edelbrock intake, holley carb. Runs great. But I have problem getting out of the hole too. Baby it off stop and then stand on it and it runs like a raped ape. It has tons of torque, pulls up steep hills in 4th gear and gains speed with no effort. My thoughts are the gear ratios in the tranny. These cars were made for top end, hence the 160 mph speedo, not blazing hole shots. Something to think about. 

I still think you'd need more compression to run a cam like that. The stock CR was 9:1 on the L82. Flat-tops will only give you another 1/2 point, if that. Anything over a 260-270 deg duration will lose you low end, unless you have the compression to make up for it. It's all about cylinder pressures, and a lot of duration just won't allow that at lower rpms without at least a 10:1 CR, imo.
As Rick says, too, the timing may need to be adjusted to work with all of the mods...18 deg/idle sounds like way too much....10 might be better.
It's gonna take some figuring, and tinkering to get it running better, but it should work out...just maybe not as well as you envisioned. It's still gotta be better than stock, I assume.

don't worry if the tires don't bark if your rollin when you stand on it, now if you come out at 2500 from a stop and you don't spin the tires then there is a problem, my guess is your motor is puttin out about 350+ hp, the cam sounds ok, sounds like its running good, if thereis a problem my guess its could be in either the heads or distributor, you have a performance rear gear at 3.73 and probabley you don't want it lower than that for the street, if your heads were just port matched cleaned up and some bowl work around the valve guides thats fine, but if the intake and exh ports were hogged out your low end torque #'s are going to suffer,, your dist has 20deg's meh. adv.built in with no vac. adv. plus your 18 deg's initial gives you a total of 38deg.'s, might be a tick or two too much, but its real close,SB's like to run at about 32-38 deg's total, the question you should be asking is when is my advance coming in, all mech adv. distributors are mostly used for racing, where eng rpm are kept hi  in the power band, like coming out of the hole in drag racing at 2500-3000rpm or in oval track where its 2500 to whatever, over the counter dist's like you have is most likely not set up for the street, people have different opinions on this but your motor would probabley run better with a vac. adv. distributor set up to your eng. specs, your dist. would then be set up with 24 deg.'built in, 10-12deg.'s initial giving you a total of 34-36 total with the vac. adv. adding a little more at off idle for better low end, search     Performance Distributors .com    and it will be explained to ya.   anips2010-08-10 21:50:33

im not sure what you mean by no curve timing.

[QUOTE=anips]don't worry if the tires don't bark if your rollin when you stand on it, now if you come out at 2500 from a stop and you don't spin the tires then there is a problem, my guess is your motor is puttin out about 350+ hp, the cam sounds ok, sounds like its running good, if thereis a problem my guess its could be in either the heads or distributor, you have a performance rear gear at 3.73 and probabley you don't want it lower than that for the street, your dist has 20deg's meh. adv.built in with no vac. adv. plus your 18 deg's initial gives you a total of 38deg.'s, might be a tick or two too much, but its real close,SB's like to run at about 32-38 deg's total, the question you should be asking is when is my advance coming in,    [/QUOTE]

[quote=dry](6) Timing static is 18 degree BTDC +4 cam advance and the mechanical advance is factory +20.[/quote]

Why is the cam advanced to begin with? That helps in high rpm situations, but it will absolutely kill any low end torque, in my experience. IF in fact the cam has been advanced with a multi-slotted crank sprocket, I would seriously consider putting back to "0".
Unless I'm mis-reading something...