Topic: Plug wire routing question ....
in Forum: C3 Engines
Is there a reason that GM had for routing the plug wires down under the engine - or is it simply a matter of looks? It seems to me that it would be easier to keep an eye on their condition as well as keeping them apart if they were on top.
Have any on you, without headers, rerouted your plug wires? And, what are you using for wires and type of looms.
I just changed out my plugs and can see where I will most likely need to do wires and all the next time around. Not crazy about redoing all that threading under and over and...............
Thanks -
Willis76, It seems the reason for routing below was due to the original exhaust manifolds and the heat they put out. The wires are apt to be over headed if you route them on top without having headers.
I recently put new wires on mine, and I also haven't changed to headers yet. It is very difficult to route them under and hard to keep them separated. I used the normal separators and some tie wraps to keep them where I wanted, but I will tell you that if you don't have heat shields with the regular manifolds then you will have wire damage. I've had to change mine twice due to heat. I plan to get headers and then route them on top with one of the aftermarket wire harnesses that attaches to the valve covers.
Glenn
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust

Willis, yup, as Ken says, it is important for radio noise suppression, being a fiberglass car and all. All of those nasty parts were there for a reason, so, I for one bought new stuff - cleaned and painted the rest, and put it back in. Not cheap, but it sure looks nice and the radio works great.
The wires can be threaded through the motor mounts/V sheilds by just removing one end, then crimp the boot back on. It's a bitch, that's why everybody tosses the pieces. Good luck

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The wires were run that way because of the heat and the shielding was (is) required for radio noise suppresion. That is why the cars with no radios had no full shielding. You can run the wires over the v.covers, but it's a pain to get the boots that will work, because some need to be straight, some need to be 90 deg. But then you will get some static with yer tunes.




Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
Thanks for the tips, I'll just add this to the list of things to do during the next "off season".
For now I'll start the education process, ask a few questions and look under a some of those beautiful hoods at the local cruise nights.
L48, 4 Speed, Dual Exhaust


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56
My Link
(click for Texas-sized view!) NCRS
"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
I asked the same question on another site....the answer I got was do your homework. Not the answer I was looking for.
I am kinda anal about wiring harnesses and plug wires, if you do them right, the engine compartment looks good.....
Yes, many of the part catalogs have better diagrams for the sheilds and everything else, but sometimes if everything is apart, it is real confusing. I basically had the engine out of the car at the time, and just played with all the damn pieces till I got it right. Had to take it all off for fear of crushing something when putting the engine in the car. So, I've done it twice in the last year, I can help if you need me.