Topic: Pulled the engine and found a few things
in Forum: C3 Engines
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Lifetime MemberHOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
Glenn, keep us posted and let us know how that baby's runnin with the new motor!
Paul
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Lifetime MemberModerator
Moses Lake, WA - USA
Joined: 4/16/2005
Posts: 2134
Vette(s): 1976 L48 4-spd, Mahogany Metalic exterior, Buckskin interior 350ci/350hp, 3rd owner, fiberglass spring, 255/50-16's Torq-Thrust II
All ways felt I was getting a lean miss fire but could not get it corrected. Thought the problem could be in the valve plate of the carb. The hole in the carb for the valve shaft was worn badly so I had the carb rebuild and the holes bushed. They did a poor job on the rebuild
. So I went through it. I was going to try and richen the mixture but could not find any needles or jets for the primaries. Timing could have been retarded (or operator)
. I was retarding the timing to try and get rid of the pinging. Was not sure how accurate my mark on the harmonic balancer was. Luckily no major damage so in the future I may rebuild the motor if I have nothing better to do
.
As far as the crack goes, I had bought some glass and resin. So I am going to drill a hole at each end of the crack, sand the area to rough it up and then glass over the crack.
. So I went through it. I was going to try and richen the mixture but could not find any needles or jets for the primaries. Timing could have been retarded (or operator). I was retarding the timing to try and get rid of the pinging. Was not sure how accurate my mark on the harmonic balancer was. Luckily no major damage so in the future I may rebuild the motor if I have nothing better to do.
As far as the crack goes, I had bought some glass and resin. So I am going to drill a hole at each end of the crack, sand the area to rough it up and then glass over the crack.I thought I heard Larry's car out and about.
It's hard to tell the width of the crack. Would it be possible to clean it out with a clipped acid brush and some acetone? My ham-fisted boat-owner's thought would be to clean it out and inject epoxy into the crack. If the crack is too wide, you might need to use a filler to make the epoxy thicker to stick in the wider parts.
Another thought is to stop drill it. Go to the advancing end of the crack. It will "taper" into a hairline crack. The idea is to get the very end of the crack, which may be impossible to see with the naked eye. So, you will want to drill just beyond the visible hairline crack, perhaps a 1/4", and exactly in line with it. The larger the hole the more effective it will be, but 1/8" should be sufficient.
It's hard to tell the width of the crack. Would it be possible to clean it out with a clipped acid brush and some acetone? My ham-fisted boat-owner's thought would be to clean it out and inject epoxy into the crack. If the crack is too wide, you might need to use a filler to make the epoxy thicker to stick in the wider parts.
Another thought is to stop drill it. Go to the advancing end of the crack. It will "taper" into a hairline crack. The idea is to get the very end of the crack, which may be impossible to see with the naked eye. So, you will want to drill just beyond the visible hairline crack, perhaps a 1/4", and exactly in line with it. The larger the hole the more effective it will be, but 1/8" should be sufficient.
Attitude - The difference between ordeal and adventure.
Definately lean. And those deposits you have at the edge of the gaskets in the valley of the block are in reality from coolant seepage from the head gaskets. Very minor and you will fix it by the fact you are cleaning it up and installing new head gaskets.
You may want to take a close look at the intake gaskets, and see if the intake was leaking air from the bottom of the intake. That would have been very difficult to find with the engine together and operating. You also want to check and be sure the EGR valve is sealing when shut.
Dont' forget the other vacuum leaks, the ones coming throught he vacuum lines that are leaking elsewere, and getting to the engine as excess air, but not leaking on the engine itself. A worn/seeping power brake booster is an good example of one possible such leak.
As for the fiberglass crack, clean the cracked area well, and rough it up with course sand paper or a gentle touch with the grinder. Cut a bit of a 'V" into the crack area to allow access to the surfaces. Don't get carried away, just a bit of a v.
Mix some fiberglass resin, and soak some glass mat. Put some fibers into the v area. Then lay a layer of glass on the crack, followed by a slightly narrower strip on top of that one, and one more on that one. Work the bubbles and air gaps out of each layer.
Ideally, do the same thing from the inside of the car. Yes that does require removing dash panels. It will be okay with out the layers inside, but with them it will be even stronger. The result will be a good adhesion and a strong repair.
Some waited too long on my car before I got it. The crack went from the top of the dash area, down the firewall, to the floor hump, to the right floor. Now it's solid, sealed, strong and tight.
Lifetime MemberModerator
Moses Lake, WA - USA
Joined: 4/16/2005
Posts: 2134
Vette(s): 1976 L48 4-spd, Mahogany Metalic exterior, Buckskin interior 350ci/350hp, 3rd owner, fiberglass spring, 255/50-16's Torq-Thrust II
Well the brown van stopped by today and dropped off my Hooker Headers from Jet-Hot and a new alum radiator from DeWitt. I will pick up my new master cylinder (old leaking out rear seal) and new vac booster. Figured it was 31 years old and could have been a source of vacuum leak(thanks Ken, I missed that one). Still cleaning the crud out of the engine bay. Have some more parts from Bairs on the way. Found out why the A/C was not working. The rebuild VIR Valve I bought had a stuck needle at the orifice. Oh so much to do in preparation for the upcoming gathering in Arkansas.
Now that's what I needed to hear,
The Northwest Corvette Caravan to Arkansas is gathering members everyday..This could be the best one yet. Before you know it Glen we'll be sailing down the Interstate watching the GPS's and calling on the radio telling each other to go this way or that way..I have 6 on the list and growing.."Are we there yet"..Come on we can beat that Corvette Caravan from Texas, They don't know what a longhaul is..
The Northwest Corvette Caravan to Arkansas is gathering members everyday..This could be the best one yet. Before you know it Glen we'll be sailing down the Interstate watching the GPS's and calling on the radio telling each other to go this way or that way..I have 6 on the list and growing.."Are we there yet"..Come on we can beat that Corvette Caravan from Texas, They don't know what a longhaul is..
"I Love all Corvettes! LifeTime Member #60..Terry" 
Lifetime MemberModerator
Moses Lake, WA - USA
Joined: 4/16/2005
Posts: 2134
Vette(s): 1976 L48 4-spd, Mahogany Metalic exterior, Buckskin interior 350ci/350hp, 3rd owner, fiberglass spring, 255/50-16's Torq-Thrust II
Here is an update on the engine swap. Still waiting on a few parts to finish up.
Lifetime MemberModerator
Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 20214
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
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Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
YeeeeHaaaw!!! Lookin GUUUD! Fire that puppy up!
VRRRRROOOOOOM VRRRRROOOOOOM! 
VRRRRROOOOOOM VRRRRROOOOOOM!
Joel Adams
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in Forum: C3 Engines
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