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Topic: Putting rebuilt motor back in

in Forum: C3 Engines

Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/6/09 8:13pm Message 1 of 9
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ANOKA, MN - USA
Joined: 3/2/2002
Posts: 12
Vette(s): 1968 Roadster, 427, 4spd.

I am getting ready to drop my rebuilt big block back in to my 68 vert with manual trans.  I am hoping to gain from the years of experience on this site.  Here's the question, what is the easiest route to take.  Drop motor w/bell housing in then connect trans??  Set trans on cross member then drop motor in, then slide trans forward??  Appreciate all experienced responses.  Sorry if this has been covered in the past, searched but couldn't find any detail.

thanks
Bob



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Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/7/09 10:48am Message 2 of 9
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Burke, VT - USA
Joined: 1/23/2002
Posts: 7280
Vette(s): SOLD - "The Toy" - '70 Convertible
SOLD - "The Beast" - '90 ZR-1 (#682)
SOLD - "Betty" - '28 Ford Model A Tudor
Sold - "BLKBRRD" - '78 Pontiac Trans Am
"BLUBYU" - '04 Coupe
Hey Robert,

Years ago when I swapped out the clutch on "The Toy" (with considerable help from a REALLY good friend) if memory serves correctly we disconnected and dropped the tranny first and then pulled the bell housing (we didn't pull the engine though).  I'd think the same would hold true for dropping the motor back in.  Motor, bell housing, and then tranny in that sequence.  You could try dropping it in with the bell housing attached but I think you might run into some clearance issues doing it that way.
 
If you need an extra set of hands and eyes let me know.



Jim Olson 

"The Toys"...!!!  Save the Wave!

Where I've been in a Corvette...!!!

Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/7/09 1:07pm Message 3 of 9
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sonoma, CA - USA
Joined: 8/9/2002
Posts: 784
Vette(s): 72 LT-1 AC coupe,69 l-36 coupe

Well,  I've never pulled or installed an engine on a vette, but I've done countless removels installs on other chevys, it doesn't matter what car they all have front side mounts and a rear crossmember, and I've come to the conclusion that its best to install the motor, clutch assy, bell housing, and transmission all bolted together as a unit, the 4-spd frame has a welded in crossmember, and the 4-spd is a tight fit in the tunnel, think about it, you got one guy on the hoist trying to line the front mounts to frame mounts to put in the cross bolts, thats easy, but you still have to keep the engine connected to the hoist because there's nothing to hold up the back of the engine, thats cool, but when you go to install the trans pilot shaft into clutch disc in a tight space the guy on the bottom is going to have to try to muscle the trans in left or right up or down, while the engine is going to be doing the same thing because back of the motor is floatin on the chain hoist, you'll fight it all the way, the single unit method  the tailshaft goes in low the motor goes in high, the guy on the bottom either by hand or with a jack raises the tail onto the crossmember while guy on the hoist drops the front of the motor onto the frame mounts, like puttin on a slipper,  well not really, you'll still have to jockey the motor and trans  around, and top and bottom guy has to work in tandum,you know what I mean if you have done it before, if not get someone to help you who has, its better that trying to push two wet noodles together, it will be easier if you remove the radiator support and exhaust manifolds, no fan, water pump, alternator, you want it short as possible stem to stern, make sure all the wires cables are out of the way not to pinch anything goin in it'll be a tight fit. good luck.

anips2009-07-07 15:14:19


Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/7/09 8:01pm Message 4 of 9
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East Hanover, NJ - USA
Joined: 9/25/2004
Posts: 525
Vette(s): '68 Black Conv. Matching 327/300 4 Spd. P/S, P/B, P/W, Tele, A/C

Bob,

I bolted my 327 & trans together (new clutch & stuff) & we were abe to get it in with no major problems.
 
We had the car on 4 jack stands (under A-Arms & rear spindles) so that it was rock solid.  I was  under the car & I used a floor jack & some good old fashioned muscle to lift the tailshaft of the trans over the cross member and so that I could slide the driveshaft in.  Don't put oil in the trans until it is mounted.
 
If I had to do it over, I would have pulled the driveshaft & replaced the U-Joints while I was at it.  That is still on my list.
 
I'm sure that you learned from the engine removal that you have to pull a front tire and use the hoist from the side.  It's a little un-nerving to move that mass over the fender.
 
Good luck,
Anthony
 
Ten152009-07-07 20:02:02


Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/7/09 8:43pm Message 5 of 9
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ANOKA, MN - USA
Joined: 3/2/2002
Posts: 12
Vette(s): 1968 Roadster, 427, 4spd.

Hey Jim, thanks for the note.  Long time no talk.  I did pull the motor without bell housing first then took bell housing and tranny out in that order and thanks for the offer, I might need a strong back and weak mind.  :)

Anips and Ten15 I have been considering bolting it all together and slipping it in, but have never done that with a Vette yet.  I am guessing I would have to pull the rad surround/support to do that though.  I have the car on a hoist and have an extended engine hoist so I can go in the front, hadn't considered coming in from the side.  Either way am paranoid of taking that motor over the glass also.  THanks for the options I hadn't considered.  I'll keep you all posted on progress.
 
thanks again
Bob



Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/8/09 6:23am Message 6 of 9
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My suggestion is to install the engine first, without the clutch or bellhousing. Gives more room without having to do anything with the radiator support. Then install the clutch/bellhousing, and then slide the trans up in there with the tail end first, with the shifter hanging already from the inside...it's dang near impossible to install the shifter with the trans bolted up.
Just my opinion.
Good Luck with the install!



Every day I learn I know less than I thought I did.
Every time something is made idiot proof. The world produces a better idiot!

Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/8/09 3:07pm Message 7 of 9
Former Member
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East Hanover, NJ - USA
Joined: 9/25/2004
Posts: 525
Vette(s): '68 Black Conv. Matching 327/300 4 Spd. P/S, P/B, P/W, Tele, A/C

Bob,

The radiator & condensor were out, but the core support was in.  I had 2 very experienced mechanics helping me but it's not very comfortable lifting that mass over those fenders.

Anthony




Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/8/09 5:59pm Message 8 of 9
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Huntsville, AL - USA
Joined: 11/15/2003
Posts: 857
Vette(s): 1971 convertible,375 HP 350ci,Muncie 4-speed,Edelbrock aluminum heads and RPM air-gap manifold,HEI distrubiter - old school mechanical tach drive. LOUD side exhaust!
I put the 350 in my 71 in with the 4 speed attached. One thing different in my setup is that I don't have the original frame, and my crossmember is bolted in, so I had it out. As others have said - put the front on jack stands and take one wheels off because you have to have the lift on the side of the car. It also helps to have the core support out - gives you more room. Make sure that you take the core support out right before you put the engine in and put it back in soon after - it helps support the front end and the front end will sag if it's out of the car too long. Ask me how I know.....take it slow and you should be ok.


Putting rebuilt motor back in

Posted: 7/8/09 7:31pm Message 9 of 9
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sonoma, CA - USA
Joined: 8/9/2002
Posts: 784
Vette(s): 72 LT-1 AC coupe,69 l-36 coupe
and lots of blankets everywhere


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