Hey Adam's!

I'm revisiting this TCS Solenoid issue from a while ago.  What I am thinking about doing is outlined in the pic below.  Can I get your thoughts on it?  I timed the car today and it seems to be timing around 10ish instead of the 12 the engine compartment chart shows.  I'm wondering if the distributor vacuum hose not being attached is causing the timing to be a bit off.

Thank you in advance! 

Jason, take a look at my web page here...   I have some pics that should help, including one like this....




If you want to simply by-pass the TCS solenoid, just connect the line(white id in pics) from the distributor to the fitting on the carb where the yellow lined hose in the pics is connected. This will give you full time ported engine vacuum regardless of engine temp. Another way would be to "T" the hose from the distributor into the hose(blue id in pics) for the EGR valve control. This will give you full(non-ported) engine vacuum all the time. Lots of guy do this for a little better performance, tho it is negligible.


The timing is supposed to be set with the vacuum line to the distributor dis-connected anyway. How are you timing it? With a light? You can't always depend on timing lights....they're really only good for comparisons of before/after. Plus, you never know if the outer ring on the balancer has shifted, and the marks are off, or if the timing chain is stretched, etc.
The bestest way to set the ignition timing is with a vacuum gauge. Hook a vac gauge up to a full time vacuum source, and tune the engine to get the highest vac reading you can get. This includes adjusting the carb AND timing. It takes a while to get it all adjusted, but once you do, you can rest assured that it is set for the best the engine will do, timing wise. THAT'S when you hook the light up...to see where it shows on the timing marks with it running right. You can then use that as a reference for future timing checks, if needed.

hth

I just wanted to add, everything you see in these pics, with the exception of the upper raditater hose, the short vacuum line from the manifold to the check valve, and the belts, is factory installed, original. I detailed this engine in 1999. It's a little dusty, but the paint is still in good shape.





|UPDATED|10/26/2015 3:23:51 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

I noticed in a picture that the fuel line (kinked) actually twisted. That usually happens when you loosen it. There is a wrench made just for that use. open end wrench usually make a twist in the line with that fitting. I'm sure Joel can explain it better than me. I an just trying to be helpful and noticed nobody else mentioned it.

By golly yer right! I dint notice that either! That happens when you don't use a 1" wrench to hold the filter nut while loosening the fuel line...the whole thing twists, and kinks the fuel line like that. It can also happen if the fuel line & nut is rusted together(not the case here, tho).

Adam's - Thank you very much for the detailed pics.  I am printing them up and will work on that vacuum hose this weekend!Will let you know if I have any questions.

You guys are correct, there is a slight twist in the fuel line.  When I took off the carb for the first time, I did not have a line wrench and it did twist a bit.  Hopefully it's not restricting fuel.