Topic: Re-manufactured Engine vs my stock engine
in Forum: C3 Engines
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I had the same debate a couple of years ago with my engine. I narrowed it down to three choices:
1) crate motor
2) buy an already rebuilt motor from a local engine builder or machine shop (there are always SB chevy's advertised on Craigslist -- do your homework)
3) rebuild my original block
After considerable debate and lots of research I went #3. Found a local machinist, talked with him at length, checked references, etc. He did the block and set up a pair of used Vortec heads for me, I did the ass'y. I'm glad I went the way I did since now I still have my original block (and heads, but they're not installed) and I was able to build my own engine which is a big one for me in the pride department (first time). But the crate motor option is a good one that is worth considering. GMPP seems to be the best, but I think there are other good ones out there. I was considering S&S Engines out of Spokane. Just do your homework before going that way. Make sure the warranty is up to snuff.
FYI - not sure I saved any money by rebuilding my existing block.....still happy though.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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Lifetime MemberCOPPERAS COVE, TX - USA
Joined: 7/6/2002
Posts: 417
Vette(s): 1972 corvette stingray convertible
2007 coupe
I put a 350 crate in mine, 3 year 50,000 mile warrenty for less than $1500. I purchased the engine from Jegs. The car has the origanal componets on it except intake which is an edelbrock performer great performance and has been very dependible. I still have the origanl motor and will go through it one of these days.
Hi,
You bought a long block from Jegs and you used all your external parts, such as, water pump, oil pump, pullies, starter, and so on, except for the intake? And slapped it in on the block?
Desert StormDesert Shield Veteran
Semper Fi
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Rochester, NY - USA
Joined: 6/12/2012
Posts: 95
Vette(s): 1980 L- 82 fully restored and upgraded.
You can buy a brand new crate block with heads for 1500 .. I would get a carb to pan 290hp crate from jegs for like 2500 ,, your never gonna beat that deal with starter water pump fuel pump carb .. It really is about the most affordable way to do a engine replacement ,,
1980 , ZZ430 , 3.92 rear , 700R4 2400 stall NEW EZ EFI
I am going the build a new one from the start. this way i get exactly what I need and I know what parts have gone into the engine. It is much more expensive and time consuming. I have spent around $6500 not counting my labour.
|UPDATED|12/6/2012 10:36:03 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
I am still doing a lot of research. Finally down to little details. Question: How can I tell my compression is low and I need to overall my lower block. My plan is now is to have my cylinder heads work on and rebuilt, change the intake, carb, cam, rollers, lifters. But not really doing anything to my lower block. The car runs, but, with 189 or 190 bhp, I know that theres is nothing in it. What do you think?
Desert StormDesert Shield Veteran
Semper Fi
A compression test gauge or the more accurate option, a cylinder leak down test, I have found that by only doing the top end of an engine, you have the potential for bottom end failure.
|UPDATED|12/6/2012 2:45:46 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
|UPDATED|12/6/2012 2:45:46 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
Hi. Is it easy to install the engine yourself after you had it worked on (block and heads)? I am not a handy man so, it might different in my case. I also ask around about vortec heads. They told me because of the clearance issue, vortec heads, and vortec compatible intake will not work. What is your thoughts on this? How much hp is now your engine puts out? What ratios that your block and heads? Thank you
Desert StormDesert Shield Veteran
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Lifetime MemberAsh Fork, AZ - USA
Joined: 4/18/2007
Posts: 1058
Vette(s): 1981 Red Interior White exterior
I had this same thought process a couple of yrs ago. I went with a crate motor because I am keeping the car so It's gonna be worth the same to me (and my daughter) no matter how original it is and by the time I sent the original out for machine work it would have brought the price up considerably.
As far as installing it yourself...if it's not an exact match you might wind up running into problems with wiring and vacuum lines. I ordered a crate motor from Phoenix engines and got a good deal. Unfortunately, by the time I was in a position to install it I had to move and lost my shop(garage) in the process. I hired a mechanic to install the motor for me and he screwed it up. On my next project car, if it needs a new motor, I'll go to a local speed shop and get a motor from them. Some around here will give a break on installation as well.
My suggestion is to go with someone local...go to a car show or cruise night and get some suggestions. Folks in the hobby are always willing to help. Even if it costs a little more it's ussually easier dealing with locals.
Dave C..........My mantra: I can not be bought!! Long and short term leases available.
In the words of Zora Arkus-Duntov "Is your seat belt fastened? Alright, Let's go"
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Yeah, I know, Shut up Dave.
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Vetto1974 said: I also ask around about vortec heads. They told me because of the clearance issue, vortec heads, and vortec compatible intake will not work. What is your thoughts on this? How much hp is now your engine puts out? What ratios that your block and heads? Thank you
Vortec heads fit under the stock hoods, you just have to use the correct manifold and air cleaner. I used a GM manifold similar to this one except mine is a spread bore (bigger rear bores for the giant secondaries of a Q-jet carb)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Vortec-Dual-Plane-Intake-Manifold-Chevy-SBC-283-327-350-Fits-Vortec-Heads-/330832827129?hash=item4d072c52f9&item=330832827129&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
For the air cleaner, there are a number of options. I used a 2.5", 12" Dia. K&N. It's a tight fit under there, but they definitely do fit. I'd have a big hole in my hood now if they didn't! As for numbers, I estimate somewhere between 300 - 350 HP, based on comparing my specs for the specs on similar crate motors. My compression ratio is about 9.4:1. Have to use premium or at least mid-grade gas.
There are a number of issues that need to be resolved (even beyond clearance) if you do go with Vortec heads. You can search on this site for "Vortec" and come up with many of them. Feel free to PM me if you want more info.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
in Forum: C3 Engines
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